Build thread: 16x34’ in ground pool on an extremely sloped back yard

It is time for your set of links! The first set is all about what to do and ask about to get a great plaster job. The second set is all about how to care for your pool after you get the plaster.

Plaster links:
Ten Guidelines for Quality Pool Plaster Best one of all
All Plaster Finishes Should Last 20 Years
Not All Color Pigments are Good for Pools How to pick a good color for plaster.
A Plastering 'Watch List' | Professional Watershaping | Watershapes
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool

Pool care links:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Trouble Free Pool
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Now is also a good time to ask what test kit your PB will be providing so we can fill in any holes.

Kim :kim:
 
Thanks for the links Kim. I’m not sure what test kit the builder will supply, but I’ve already received my tf-pro salt kit. I’ve tested my fill water and have settled on the bicarb plaster start up. My water is almost perfect for that and all I should have to do is monitor and reduce pH occasionally. I’ve put the test results of my fill water in pool math if you would like to take a look at them and advise me if I’m going to make a mistake by going that route.
 
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The tile crew showed up today to start the install on the tile and coping. I’ve attached a picture below of the travertine coping we chose. It’s Fabrerstone autumn travertine. The question I have, is it has a completely different look when it’s dry versus when you wipe it with a damp cloth. Is there something we can do that will keep it looking like the wet stone in the picture. Just putting water on it really makes the colors pop. When it’s dry, the colors are still there, just way more muted and a little boring. Either way, we love the stone, just looking to see if there’s an option to permanently keep the wet look.

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Making some progress. They’ve gotten the waterline tile installed and are working on rocking the exposed pool walls and spa walls. Once that’s complete, the coping will be installed.

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There is. A couple of down sides to using it. Cost, can make it slippery, has to be redone at least every other year. If you are still interesting I will ping someone who can help with selection.
Thanks. They did install some of the coping late yesterday and after looking at it in the daylight, I think we may not want to do anything to it. We decided to wait until the deck is poured to see what the finished product looks like. We may circle back around to it if we change our minds after that.
 
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The tile and masonry crew finally finished up today. All the retaining walls and coping are complete. The only thing I saw that they should have done but didn’t, was to put a saw cut on the underside of the spa spillways. They were gone already when I got home from work, so I couldn’t get them to do that. No big deal, that’s an easy enough fix for me or the pool builder to do if it doesn’t spill correctly. Hopefully they will start on the decking later this week.


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Following, it's an amazing pool design with beautiful open backyard. It looks like you’ve got some great shade as well, which will be perfect for those hot Texas days. It’s impressive how quickly the progress has gone, from excavation to gunite and masonry in just a month. If you don't mind me asking, which part of Central Texas are you?
 
I’m just south of Waco. It is definitely progressing faster than I would have imagined. The pool builder I’m using is out of Waco, but all the crews that he subcontracts with have been coming out of Ft Worth and have been working with him for 25 years.
 
More progress this week. The concrete crew installed all the forms and steel for the decking. They are going to install the chairs under the steel the morning of the pour. It’s really taking shape now as far as being able to see the final product. Concrete pour is scheduled for Monday or Tuesday. The equipment will be set and electric completed late next week and then plaster the following week. We may still be able to swim in our new pool this year after all.
 

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At the equipment pad didn’t see a tracing wire on the gas line, could it possibly be on the backside out of view?
Will there be a separation between the deck work and the bond beam of the pool along with one also against the elevated concrete work along the stairs that lead to the house?
 
Pool builder was out this morning taking measurement to verify the amount of concrete needed to pour the decking tomorrow. He verified that the equipment will be set and electric work completed later this week and that the plaster crew will be here next week to plaster the pool.

So now I’m turning my focus to start up. I have already verified that my water is perfect for the bicar start up method. CH is 250, TA is 340, and pH is 7.2, giving me a CSI of +.23. CH + TA is greater than 500, so no additional carbonate will need to be added. As pH rises to 7.8, which I fully expect to happen, CSI will go up to +.83.

It is my understanding that as pH approaches 8.0, I will need to add muriatic acid to bring it back down to around 7.7 I have a case of liquid chlorine and a case of muriatic acid on hand ready to go and I’m ordering CYA today.

This late in the season, what CYA level should I target? Do I need to go all the way to 70, or would 50 suffice until next spring? At what point should the CYA be added? Also, is there anything else I should have on hand that I’m missing for the start up?

Edit to add: my iron and copper levels are very low. It’s been a few years since I had them tested, so I don’t remember the exact exact levels, but we don’t have any iron staining on any of the fixtures in the house. Should I consider adding a sequestering agent when I fill?

@kimkats @onBalance
 
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adding a sequestering agent when I fill?
Yes, better safe than sorry.

I have a copy/past from @HermanTX for you as well:
some helpful hints for day of filling


  • Do they have all the proper return nozzles and drain covers (type and color) to place after plaster installed
  • Have you tested your fill water? Are you filling with softened water or regular tap water?
  • Have your hose ready (and clean) as it will be laying in the pool.
  • Tie a sock or cloth around the nozzle so it does not sit on the plaster. Also, consider tying a plastic jug to the nozzle such that it will float up as the water rises.
  • Make sure the hose is put at the lowest part of the pool.
  • Do NOT stop the flow of water once it starts as it stopping it could cause a ring on the plaster.
  • Ensure you take note (or a picture) of your water meter reading before you start to fill
  • Be prepared to take note of your water meter as the pool reaches certain levels, i.e bottom of bottom step, top of bottom step, etc. (it helps in the future to know volume of your pool at certain levels - should you ever have to drain portion of it)
  • Plan to set an alarm every 4 hours (or so) to ensure hose is still in pool, no debris blew into pool, etc.
  • Take a picture of any chemicals they bring on site that they plan to dump in when they start to add water to pool
  • Continue to fill pool to center of water tile or center of skimmer. Take picture of water meter at end of fill
  • Get clear instructions from PB as what to do the day the pool is full - how often to brush, will the pump be turned on, etc.
Define with PB when he will be back out to set up water chemistry
 
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Decking was completed today. Equipment will be delivered tomorrow, plumbers will set the equipment and complete the plumbing Monday. The electricians are scheduled for Tuesday, and plaster is supposed to happen Thursday. I can see the finish line and my yard no longer looks like a construction site. At this point in the year, I think I’ll just let the grass come back and worry about landscaping in the spring.
 

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