Brown/Dark Green Algae Remains But Stats Seem Good

[Maxwellq]

Hi All -

This is my first post. Apologies if this is covered somewhere else but I couldn't find anything that matched my situation.

Here's the situation:
- Pool is dark green/brown and thick seeming
- Have shocked the living daylights out of it with liquid chlorine
- Have vacuumed
- Have used everything the store sold me a couple of times (now I know from reading this to cut that out!)

Basically, it was a perfect storm. My liquid chlorine feeder went out while on a two week vacation. My "helpful" home sitter tried using my robot to clean up the algae that began to form. I'm sure that trekked the algae all over the pool.

As I was in France and couldn't easily help, I told him to shut it down and leave it for a week until I got home.

Now I cannot for the life of me bring it back.

I've got a taylor 1004 kit so I have some good #'s but not all. I've got the big kit around here somewhere I just need to find it.

But, here are my stats and some pictures attached...

FC - +10 (can't see higher with this kit)
PH - 7.2
Total Alk - 60-70
CYA - 0 (from test strip)
CA - 250-300 (from test strip)

My pool system is old (like a VW, I like it) and has no flush to waste, but I do have an external pump so I can vacuum stuff out of the pool - which I've been trying...

Cleaning the filter every couple of hrs.

Wife wants me to call in the pros but I know I can fix this!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Until then, I'll just keep vaccuuming, cleaning the filter, etc.

Thanks again!
Max

 

[PoolStored]

Welcome to TFP!!!

First thing to do is get a test kit that will allow you to manage your pool. Link-->Test Kits Compared

Print this out (see link at the end of the sentence). Read it three times. Keep it in your back pocket and follow it to rid yourself of algae. Link-->SLAM Process

 

[duraleigh]

+1 what poolsroed said. YOu must SLAM your pool and you cannot do so without one of the kits we suggest.

 

[Maxwellq]

Thanks fellas! Love the SLAM video.

I did find my 2005 Taylor Complete Kit (will this one work?):

New Numbers:
FC - +20
PH - 7.2
Total Alk - 60-70
CYA - 0
CA - 750+?? Maybe I'm doing this one wrong - having a hard time reading the blue.

Clearly I need to get my CYA up to 30 to begin the SLAM process. I'm guessing I shouldn't bother until my additional FC burns off in the sun first?? What's the best method of bringing up CYA? Powder stabilizer added to the filter?

Thanks again!
Max

 

[Rocket J Squirrel]

I did find my 2005 Taylor Complete Kit (will this one work?)

No, it lacks the FAS/DPD test which is needed to measure free chlorine at SLAM levels. You can add on the Taylor K-1515 kit which will essentially transform your K-2005 into a K-2006, which is one of TFP's recommended kits.

If the K-2005 has been sitting around lost for a while, check the expiration dates on the reagents. You may need to replace them.

 

[Maxwellq]

Ordered. Thx!

 

[Maxwellq]

Okay - I've got all my new kits. And I'm SLAM'ing.

Just want to be sure. If my CYA is 60, then my FC needs to be 20?

If I'm right, do I need to add 40 drops of the reagent everytime I'm doing the FAS test or can I do a multiplier? It takes forever and burns through the reagents pretty quickly...

Thx!
Max

 

[PoolStored]

Your SLAM level is 24. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Choose SLAM.

Use 5ml sample of pool water during SLAM. 1 drop = 1FC.

For OCLT use 10ml sample of pool water. 1 drop = .5FC.

Both of these will conserve reagent, and give you accurate enough results.

SLAM ON!!!!

 

[Maxwellq]

Aha - thank you! And so quick to answer. you guys are the best!!

BTW - it is getting better...slowwwwwlyyy...

 

[Maxwellq]

Anyone have any tips on how to better read the CYA test? I really struggle with that little black dot at the bottom...should it be in very bright sunlight?

 

[BDY]

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[BDY]

see the post above - you should do it outdoors with your back to the sun.

It’s the most subjective test by far - many people will pour it back into bottle and redo it a few times

You can also squirt to a line, read it, add to next line etc instead of watching and pouring at same time

Don’t stare either - your brain will see a dor eventually if you do. Quick glance and look away

 

[Maxwellq]

Haha - thanks - and thanks for that link - very helpful. This is why I was always bad in chemistry class!

 

[Maxwellq]

Hey all - just wondering how long this process generally takes? I only got up to SLAM levels yesterday (24 FC for me!) and am maintaining that level, vacuuming, etc. water is a more agreeable color, but still very, very cloudy - can't see bottom even in 3ft. Seems crazy to keep the pool at 24 FC for too long...

It also seems like a LOT of chlorine going in to hit that level - that's okay, right?

 

[PoolStored]

My only slam took about 8 days. A bit bigger pool. AND, I was relentless. I tested and replaced chlorine every two hours, 7am to 1-2am. Took ~40 gallons.

You might be 5 days, might be two weeks...so many variables.

I have not had algae since, my pool is always clean and ready.

 

[BDY]

Lot of chlorine goes in to get to that level and then less to keep it there especially if you are testing often. The more you can test and keep it there the better.

 

[Maxwellq]

Is it okay to mix 12.5% HASA liquid chlorine and just regular bleach? Any preferences on this?

 

[PoolStored]

I would not mix it. But you can use both. Pour one, then the other.

 

[Maxwellq]

Sorry - yes, that's what I meant. Just when I run out of the 12.5 stuff, it's easier to just go buy bleach (and bleach is stronger, too, no?)

 

[BDY]

Just make sure it’s plain bleach with no additives or scents or anything. Store bleach is usually weaker than pool chlorine, so you may need more of it.

The pool math app will adjust volume if you change the strength percentage