Breaker issue/Intermatic timer identification

Note: We always recommend that any electrical work with any uncertainty be checked by a licensed electrician to make sure that everything is safe and up to code.
I hear you. Likely heading that way. I am comfortable doing light electrical work but this may be out of my realm. My hope was that someone would say “just replace the timer and you’ll be all set!” but alas…
 
The 15 amp breaker is ok, but it needs to be GFCI.

There is writing on the wires to identify the wire gauge, what does that show?

The motor is about 8 years old, so maybe the motor is beginning to have some issues.

Can you remove the back cover on the motor and show the wiring compartment?

If you have a meter and know how to safely test, you can check for continuity to ground from the power wires.

The power has to be off to test for continuity to ground.

Note: Do not do anything unless you are 100% sure that you can do it safely and correctly.
 
The 15 amp breaker is ok, but it needs to be GFCI.

There is writing on the wires to identify the wire gauge, what does that show?

The motor is about 8 years old, so maybe the motor is beginning to have some issues.

Can you remove the back cover on the motor and show the wiring compartment?

If you have a meter and know how to safely test, you can check for continuity to ground from the power wires.

The power has to be off to test for continuity to ground.

Note: Do not do anything unless you are 100% sure that you can do it safely and correctly.
I didn’t see writing on the wiring but it appears to be 12 gauge.

I can’t get into the wiring compartment without unhooking the entire pump, as it’s installed right up against the house.

Here is the capacitor:

2CD167E9-F8B3-4EC5-888C-C7517C25BE1D.jpeg
3D14292E-1B16-4F3E-B872-917DE6A70741.jpeg
 
Also, that pump uses about 2,200 watts, which is way too much power for normal circulation.

Is there any reason that you need high flow?

Probably time to consider going to a variable speed pump.
 
Motor type UAK is a Capacitor Start/Capacitor Run motor.

So, there should be a start capacitor in the back under the cover.

I would check the start capacitor if you can.
I think that’s gonna be an issue. The pump is installed flush against the house. I would have to unhook all the plumbing to move the pump to be able to access the compartment with the wiring and start capacitor... unless there’s a way to get in there that I’m unaware of.

577C692D-9A4B-46BA-ADBD-5E4A3DEDDAA2.jpeg
 

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I would replace the run capacitor and install a GFCI breaker.

The capacitor should have a label that shows the capacitance in uF which is microfarads.

Hopefully, that will fix the issues.

If not, then we can go from there.

I would start researching replacement pumps.

With a variable speed pump, you can operate at about 1/5th to 1/10 of the power, which will save a lot of money in the long run and it will be much quieter.

Your utility might even offer a rebate if you replace your single speed pump with a variable speed pump.
 
I would replace the run capacitor and install a GFCI breaker.

The capacitor should have a label that shows the capacitance in uF which is microfarads.

Hopefully, that will fix the issues.

If not, then we can go from there.

I would start researching replacement pumps.

With a variable speed pump, you can operate at about 1/5th to 1/10 of the power, which will save a lot of money in the long run and it will be much quieter.

Your utility might even offer a rebate if you replace your single speed pump with a variable speed pump.
Ok! I am checking on Amazon… based on the pump I have, it looks to be a 25mfd… I can’t see a label on the capacitor. I will check back in when that is installed in a few days.
After just putting a new roof on the house because of Hurricane Ian, I don’t know that I’m in the market for a new pump right now, but it’s definitely a consideration. Thank you for your assistance!
 
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