Bought a house with a spa - how do I know when to change the water and high Br

[Cindy_H]

Hi everyone! So glad to have found this site as I ponder the deeper questions of spa maintenance!

I moved into a new house with a spa in November and our family of 4 enjoys the spa 3-6x per week. I did not drain the water when we moved in as it was crystal clear and had been under a weekly service contract. However, we wanted to save some $$ by doing maintenance ourselves so I've been scouring the internet and talking to pool supply guys about best practices. I have some bromine tablets going at all times and keep the pH in the 7.6 range though our tap water seems to be 8.2+ so when it refills the pH drifts up. When I shock the pool with SeaKlear Spa Balanced Shock Oxidizer at the recommended levels on their packaging (4 oz for 1000 gal) my free Cl/Br levels shoot to 11+ and the pH levels are "purple" which I take to mean there is too much bromine in the water. What's going on there and is it bad? The pool supply guy said high levels of hypobromous acid "won't hurt anyone."

Which leads me to ask how do you know when to change the water? I can see this is true for things like CYA which has no chemical neutralizer, but I don't worry about CYA in a Br spa right? The HASA Bromine tablet directions say "For an estimate of proper water life follow theformula below: [COLOR=rgb(2.000000%, 2.700000%, 3.100000%)]Divide the gallons [/COLOR][COLOR=rgb(2.000000%, 2.700000%, 3.100000%)]in [/COLOR][COLOR=rgb(2.000000%, 2.700000%, 3.100000%)]your spa by 3 times the average number of bathers per day[/COLOR][COLOR=rgb(15.700000%, 16.500000%, 16.500000%)].[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgb(2.000000%, 2.700000%, 3.100000%)]Example: 375 gallon spa - 1 person x 3 = 3375/3=125 (change water every 125 days) "

I find statements like this everywhere, but really want to know if there is some way to know the water is "bad" or "old" or needs to be replaces besides just age/use. Any other indicators?

Thanks everybody![/COLOR]

 

[ant 83]

I did a search for this stuff....

SeaKlear Spa Balanced Shock Oxidizer

potassium peroxymonosulfate 36.2%
inert ingredients 63.8%
active oxygen 3.76%

Sounds kinda snake oily to me. I've no doubt that the 36.2% portion of it, uh, works, to activate your bromine, but I sure wouldn't pay money for this stuff.

You can use non-scented bleach to do this job. Stay away from splash-less formulas. they cause foam.

Water change frequency varys from person to person here. I'd say seasonally (every 3 months) is a good baseline. Some folks more, some folks less.

welcome to trouble free pool by the way.

Our other common recommendations are to use ah-some pipe cleaner with every water change, and to make sure you aren't relying on paper dip strip tests. Those things are awful.

The two sticky threads at the top on how to use bleach, and how to use bromine are good things to read if you are unfamiliar with the concepts.

Feel free to ask any other questions.

 

[Lyd]

Welcome, Cindy! The experts on this forum will help you maintain your spa perfectly. As long as you follow their directions and ask as many questions as you want.

I have learned to stay away from pool and spa stores. Did you hear me? Do not go near them. They do not carry the items necessary for spa maintenance, at least not where I live. Get yourself the 6 ounce jar of Ahh-Some for your spa cleaning and purging routine. Get the Taylor K-2106 Kit from Amazon. Bromine tabs and a floaty if that is your system and some regular 8.25% bleach. Not splashless bleach, not Clorox somesillytechnology labeled bleach. I have on hand Metal Gon, Defender, peroxide, ph up and ph down, alkalinity increaser and calcium hardness increaser. It sounds like a lot but it all works for me and does not cost too much. I also use the sodium bromide at each new fill and boric acid. Keeping things simple is the way to go and asking questions before you get into trouble saves alot of time and money!

I change my water when the water gets cloudy and will not clear up in 3-4 days of superchlorination or 4-5 months have elapsed from last change. I am the only person in my tub, the tub is in the bathroom and not exposed to the elements whatsoever so the water lasts a long time. Keeping the proper sanitizer level at all times is crucial to healthy water!

Enjoy!

 

[Cindy_H]

Thanks! Where do you buy your chemicals then if not a pool store??
Does everyone need to use Metal Gon and Defender or does it depend on your water source?

 

[kimkats]

Thanks! Where do you buy your chemicals then if not a pool store??
Does everyone need to use Metal Gon and Defender or does it depend on your water source?

Walmart or Lowes neat huh??? Here is a link for the what we use for this and that:

Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Now don't go running out and buying all of the stuff on the list as you might not all of it. Just buy what you need when you need it.

Kim

 

[mknauss]

Most water, especially in the west, do not have significant metal issues.

What exactly are those two products? Do you know the manufacturer so we can search for them?

 

[Lyd]

Hi Cindy, Since I dont do Walmart or Lowes, I get my Defender and Metal Gon from reputable spa stores on Ebay. Ahh-Some from Amazon as well as the Taylor Products. You have to watch Amazon, sometimes Taylor has them cheaper than Amazon. Metal Gon is imperative here in New England where your water can almost be picked up by a magnet! I am including the write up from the manufacturer below.

I am now using no-name bleach, 8.25% since Clorox tainted their regular bleach formulation. Always read your labels to make sure you are getting the proper ingredients in your products.
Defender is a unique blend of organic polymers designed to prevent scale formation, aid in the removal of existing scale and to help prevent precipitation of dissolved solids in spas or hot tubs.
Useful Tips

• Use weekly for continued protection from scale (I do not, I only use on fresh fill)
• Compatible with chlorine, bromine, ozone and biguanide sanitizers

Available Size: 32 fl. oz.

Metal Gon
Metal Gon sequesters iron, copper and other minerals and prevents staining of spa surfaces. It is highly concentrated and only needs to be added upon start-up.
Useful Tips

• Lasts from refill to refill
• Don’t forget to use Defender to prevent scale formation
• Compatible with chlorine and bromine sanitizers

Available Size: 16 fl. oz.

To Moderator MKnauss, Both of these products are by Leisure Time. If you find something amiss, please let me know. I do not want to give misinformation nor do I want to waste money!

I have used both of these products for years will great success with my rock hard water. My Ahh-Some purges are nearly spotless as well.
Best of luck to you!

 

[mknauss]

I understand the need for the metal sequestration if you have metals in the water. The Defender to me is an unnecessary expenditure. If you are preventing scale just do that with water chemistry. See Pool School - Calcium Scaling

 

[Lyd]

Thank you, Mr. Moderator, I read the link to Pool School and went to the Pool Math Calculator.

I figured out to use all zeros for the CYA and Salt, as I do not test for CYA and do not use salt. I think I can use the calculator properly with my results. It seems the key is having your CH in proper line and the scaling will be under control. Is there a difference in fiberglass or acrylic as far as the care and feeding?

I do not want to continue purchasing the Defender if it is a waste. I would very much like to understand how to keep my spa from scaling. I may not even have a scale issue as I do have to raise my CH at each new fill. From the well it is always 30. Your thoughts, please.

 

[mknauss]

If you have to add calcium and your fill water is that low in CH, you have no worries for scale. Just keep your water chemistry readings in the normal range, pH in the 7's and TA under 100 and you will never scale.

Take care.