Both return and suction side leak

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Guys, it is very dangerous to use air to test PVC. Always use water only. PVC can shatter and shards will fly everywhere. Don’t ask me how I know……

Here is one PVC manufactures write up on it.

www.charlottepipe.com

Air vs. Hydrostatic Testing for PVC, CPVC, and ABS

Why is air testing plastic plumbing systems a potential hazard? Read on to understand the dangers and find out why water testing is recommended.
www.charlottepipe.com www.charlottepipe.com
 
tagteamcomputing said:
Ok, I dry fit my leak test stick. Probably doesnt need to be so big so I may cut down the middle parts a bit.
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I guess that works, how do you plan on checking the return line? Can you join them together at the pad and pressure test both at once?
 
I don't know about that. My pad is as follows:
North Suction, South Suction, Main Drain, Side Suction, Fountain.

So I don't think I can do both at once. Is a valve good enough to test the pressure or do I need to take off the valve and put a rubber bladder in there?

I am not really sure how I can test the returns. I was thinking I would have to buy some kind of expansion plug with a bypass for the air. Then I could leave all the returns plugged and add water through the bypass, but then I don't know how I would check the pressure. I would have to have some kind of submersible gauge that can plug into one of the returns. Or I could build another pressure stick with a 90 on it and screw another pressure test stick into it an put the pressure gauge at the end of that.

Any thoughts on that?
 
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tagteamcomputing said:
I don't know about that. My pad is as follows:
North Suction, South Suction, Main Drain, Side Suction, Fountain.

So I don't think I can do both at once. Is a valve good enough to test the pressure or do I need to take off the valve and put a rubber bladder in there?

I am not really sure how I can test the returns. I was thinking I would have to buy some kind of expansion plug with a bypass for the air. Then I could leave all the returns plugged and add water through the bypass, but then I don't know how I would check the pressure. I would have to have some kind of submersible gauge that can plug into one of the returns. Or I could build another pressure stick with a 90 on it and screw another pressure test stick into it an put the pressure gauge at the end of that.

Any thoughts on that?
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Got a picture of the equipment pad? Ive got unions on my returns so Id just plug the skimmer and returns and then pressurize them from the pad. You may not have that option.
 

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Yes, I have the system on right now. I am returning the water to the hot tub and fountain only which spills over into the pool. It is not a long term solution but the water circulates good enough for now.
I can test the return easy. I screw in my testing stick to the skimmer and then leave the valve closed at the pad. I think I should put the rubber bladder in though because I don't know if the valve seals good enough for the test.

For the return line I am thinking I will try the same kind of thing. I will find some sort of 90 degree that will screw into a return line and then screw my test stick into that and leave all the other lines plugged and then shut the valve or put the bladder in at the pool return valve and runt he same water test.

I can do air but I will only do that if my water test is not successful and I will keep the pressure down low.
 
tagteamcomputing said:
Yes, I have the system on right now. I am returning the water to the hot tub and fountain only which spills over into the pool. It is not a long term solution but the water circulates good enough for now.
I can test the return easy. I screw in my testing stick to the skimmer and then leave the valve closed at the pad. I think I should put the rubber bladder in though because I don't know if the valve seals good enough for the test.

For the return line I am thinking I will try the same kind of thing. I will find some sort of 90 degree that will screw into a return line and then screw my test stick into that and leave all the other lines plugged and then shut the valve or put the bladder in at the pool return valve and runt he same water test.

I can do air but I will only do that if my water test is not successful and I will keep the pressure down low.
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Is there a reason you cant return water to the pool now using your normal returns? The builders usually pressure test just because they have to bury the lines to finish building the pool and deck. But yours is already done so maybe not needed. Turn pump on high pressure for a while and see if it leaks?
 
Yes, I can and will do that. I wanted to test the pressure to see if there are any leaks anywhere else. I can and will test at full pump speed and watch for leaks in my newly repaired section but just figured while I was at it I would test all of the returns.
 
tagteamcomputing said:
Yes, I can and will do that. I wanted to test the pressure to see if there are any leaks anywhere else. I can and will test at full pump speed and watch for leaks in my newly repaired section but just figured while I was at it I would test all of the returns.
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OK, I get it. Interested to see what you come up with.
 
I should be able to finish the repair this weekend. It is storming here now so I have to wait until that passes. Once I finish the second repair I plan to test the suction line just to see if it leaks. Then test with the Leak stick. Then I will move on to the returns which I will probably test with the leak stick first since all the returns are already plugged.

As far as the testing should I put the inflatable bladder in the live just before where the valve is or is closing the valve good enough?
 
Quick question before I finish my final repair. Should I make the repair angled and just above the first repair? That puts it 17 inches underground. Those connection pieces are not glued to the main pipe yet.

Option1.JPG

Or should I make it straight up and down, which makes it only 14 1/2 inches under the ground? Or am I over thinking it and it doesn't really matter?

Option2.JPG
 
I went with option two because if there was an issue with anything it would be easier to work on it.

I turned on the suction (one on the right) and so far I dont see any leaks. I also built my pressure test stick and this week I will pressure test the stick itself and then try to the suction line.

Do you think that closing the valve at the pad is good enough or I should put the bladder in it.
 
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