booster pipe leak

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It needs to be around 3200 plus minus 500. Why did you add salt if you had not tested it before? Was it based on the SWG reading?

If you have strips use them, otherwise have the store do it. Maybe invest in a kit soon.
 
r 1.33 is a pretty old system. If the cell is original, I would suspect a failed cell. How old is the cell? The third and fourth digits of the serial number are the year of manufacture. For example, a serial number starting with 3E04 would have been made in 2004.

In any case, a salt test is the next step.
 
jblizzle, glad that I listened to your advice. Added 6 x 40 lb bags of salt today. Soon the check minerals light and inspect cell lights went off, and equipment seems to in good working order. The salt reading is now 2800, and I'm going to add 3 more bags of salt. My goal is a reading of 3900. Again, thank you for your help.
 
I have green algae, so I was going to run it high for a while.

Did not know I had a signature, but hopefully now I have added the information that you requested.

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James W, I do not have a salt test. I was only going by the swg reading.

I need to buy a comprehensive test kit. Can you recommend one?
 
I would suggest the TF-100 for the main test kit and the K-1766 for salt. See the link in my signature. If your cell is old, the salt reading is probably wrong. You really need to test the salt level.

For the algae, you need to follow the Slam process as outlined in Pool School.
 
The salt cell is old but I think still in good working order. I put more salt in pool yesterday and the cell registered it.

Is there one test kit that will test everything I need, or do I need to purchase multiple kits?

I'm trying to following SLAM and seem to be making progress by the afternoon, but overnight and the next morning it is back seemingly just as green.

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You can't make chlorine without the salt, and I do not believe I have enough salt according to the reading and the instructions on the manual for the cell.
 
What are the first 4 digits of the serial number on the cell? With an old cell, the salt reading will start reading lower and lower than actual. If you keep adding salt according to the box, your salt will usually end up around 6,000 ppm before the cell fails completely. I recommend getting the two kits that I suggested.

I would turn the salt system off until you complete the Slam and have the salt tested. You can bring a sample to a pool store for a salt test until you get your own test kit or salt test strips. You can use liquid chlorine or regular bleach until the Slam is complete and you get the salt system figured out. Bleach should only be regular 8.25% sodium hypochlorite. No Splashless, scented, "Outdoor" or other special use bleach.
 

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James W, the numbers are 5E04. Even though the cell may be old, the pool sat vacant for 8 years with the cell not being used. If the cell is old, but was not used, would that make a difference in the function of it now?

I looked at salt strips today but did not purchase them because at the time I did not think they were necessary. I have spent several hundred dollars in the last couple of days trying to get the algae cleared up. It seems I'm not making much progress either. Today it rained, which I believe changes the pool chemistry. My pool is a money pit.
 
I feel I have made some headway on my algae problem. It dawned on me that during SLAM I was to backwash the filter, which I have not done. Today I did. While backwashing, I used the backwash to vacuum. When I turned the filter on, all this white stuff starting spewing into the pool. Not sure what it was, but I believe I like it. Not long after that, algae started floating to the top, and accumulated in the dead zone. It was thick, so I tried to remove as much as I good with a net. Soon the particles that were left dissipated. I guess they were sucked into the filter. Then that happened again this afternoon. Lots of floating algae accumulated in the dead zone, and I scoped as much as I could out. The water is still green but I don’t believe as green as it once was.
 
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