bonding, ground, electrical knowledge needed

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That is brilliant :) no way to get to ground if no ground within 3 feet

hmmmmm, it may be cost prohibitive though... 90 feet of 3 foot deck only to get torn out in about 3 years... I think the copper wire is a cheaper option for my situation but that sure would work for someone doing a complete deck.. :)
 
I just figured out what I am going to do.. (maybe) :)

1. 300 feet of #8 copper wire looped around the outside of the pool from 3 feet away back in to the side of the pool..
2. 1 to 2 tons of 1/2 inch to 3 inch river rock over the wire

The rock will cost me 11 dollars a ton and a backache and while not cheap the copper is not to expensive... :)

how does that sound?
 
So no barefoot access to the side of the pool?

It would kind of neat if you could break up the decorative rock with small sections of wooden deck, like 4' X 3', placed at regular intervals. Gives a person and easy way to stand by the pool side.

Otherwise an ok idea I suppose. I'm not sure how good copper wire is at bonding soil since soil conductivity can vary very widely depending on moisture content.

Since its your back and not mine, what about digging down an inch or so, adding the copper wire and backfilling with decomposed granite and then a layer of rock? The DG will make a good base layer for water drainage. You could also add a row of paver bricks along the outside edge to act as header to retain the DG and rocks.

Oh yeah, I like it complicated...we still need to talk about your sacrificial anode.
 
that is basically what I have now, 2 inches of crushed fines with sand over it, I like the idea of a small 3x4 deck built just over the ground for testing and temp purposes..

Because this will all get replaced with a concrete pad and outdoor kitchen / pool house, I do not want to lay concrete down or make anything permanent.. just make it safe....

The power company just contacted me and they are going to come and do a comprehensive work order and see if anything is out of whack power wise for my house and the area... Like I told the power company, I can make my pool safe but there may be other people that do not have any clue what is going on and get hurt at someone else's property or pool...

I will keep everyone informed :)
 
SO last night at 730 PM I tested again, because of being almost 100 degrees and everyone being home the NEV from the pool to earth was up to 1.65 Volts..

2 new rules have been made..

no one touches the water from the outside without shoes on
if you want to touch water without shoes it will ONLY be done from the deck

Sitting here thinking about this, the easiest and safest way is to do exactly like matt said, a deck, not an OVERBOARD deck like I built but 2 long 2x4 on the ground and 3 foot 2x4 or 6 spaced out, it would take me a morning to do :)
 
Sounds like someone's got a great new build thread to start over in the Under Construction forum!!

Good luck, Casey!!
 
gwegan said:
Matt are you saying build a deck and you won't have to install copper? Because I don't think that works.
Click to expand...

Yeah. But I'm guessing that's still not up to code, eh? Probably have to bond the ground AND the deck, right?

Oh well....
 

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I'm in a similar boat as you but unfortunately, I have a 720sf + concrete deck around my pool that never had the bonding grid installed. I've been playing with all options...everything from a complete pool removal and replacement to a deck overlay (think rubber pavers), to a DIY deck removal, grid install and concrete re-pour or paver install.

No matter what solution ends up being the final one, it is not going to be cheap! The only price I've even been able to get was for a full removal and gunite build and their starting price was $72k.

I'll be following your thread to see what you end up doing, good luck.
 
I do not see how one could bond wood.... I am only taking the possibility out from getting to ground, if your feet can not touch earth then no neutral to earth voltage can cross.. problem solved :)

I have thoughts on "fixing" concrete deck but they are not to "code" and it depends on if the rebar was tied together when installed...

I will talk further tonight :)
 
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