Blowing out a dual line skimmer setup and how dual lines are usually set up...

Ah ....the light is in the pump room near the pumps (filter and booster for the cleaner) ...was just postulating this might be yet another safety precaution for the pumps ...might be some conducting through pipes and concrete in the room ...no effect to the MD or pipes outside the room though.
 
Right ...everyone's circumstances are different ...all my equipment is in an enclosed, but uninsulated, room ...I don't really want to insulate it since there is a pool heater in there, as well, and it gets warm in the summer, already.

Thanks for advice ...every year I try and do a good job getting the water out of the system - and, at least pushing down the main drain water and air locking it ... but every year I have my fingers crossed that it is good enough :)
 
but every year I have my fingers crossed that it is good enough

Because MD are so deep and usually equipment is at a higher elevation, naturally the water will go down a few feet. Because the soil insulates everything, I doubt people will run into problems. You should have no issues. If the main drain leaks, that is a serious problem. Honestly, I could do without a main drain. I have mine pulling very little water in my system. What helps me is the rotating 360* heads that constantly keep water going, although PH drifts upwards pretty quickly.
 
While my closing process is not perfect and I don't know nearly as much as the other folks responding, my experience with my 10 foot deep 20x40 pool is that I have never been able to get bubbles coming from the main pool drain ...I can leave a 6 hp shop vac hooked up and running for 30 minutes and still don't get bubbles. What I have done for the 7 years since we built it is to let the vac run for while to hopefully push some of the water back down to the main drain and then while it is running, I close the valve and hopefully airlock it somewhat ...this has been ok so far with no horrible consequences ...at least that I could tell.

I have an equipment room that is on the end of a lanai and fully protected ...pipes go straight down for a foot or so through concrete then run sloping to the end of the pool about 40 feet away.

If you are far north with colder climate my process may not be sufficient ...or if lines run more shallow.

One thing I am curious about is what net effect keeping the pump and valves warm would have ...was considering putting a halogen bulb in a reflector fixture and leaving it near and pointed at the equipment this year as extra precaution during extreme cold periods.

(Apologies for the late reply. Been trying to sell my old house. (

it is interesting that you dont notice bubbles coming from your main drian either. I live in Vancouver Canada. Most we get here on the coast is -10 degrees. So its not like -30 in Alberta or Sk
 
Another idea I have is to just shove a 10 speed bike tire tube into the pipe and then air it up a bit. With the intention of just simply displacing the water further down.

Cuz i just dont trust that the gizmo i have is going to hold air all winter long
 
If you do not trust the Gizmo, then use a black rubber plug after you push air through the system. The black rubber plugs will give you a tight seal.

Then place either Styrofoam or a bottle with RV Antifreeze (50% full) to absorb any ice expansion so the skimmers do not crack.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.