New to the forum and to owning a swim spa (1500 gallons):
Purchased a Dynasty swim spa from my local dealer. They recommended the "Simple Blue" spa system which consists of adding 7.5 Oz of "Spa Manager" and 5 Oz "Power Boost" (AKA DiChlor 56% Cl-) each week. With this method, my FCl would get very high (over 10) and wouldn't come below 5 for a day or two (My wife tries to swim every other day). Another worker at the dealership recommended splitting the dose in 2, which gets the fCl level to about 5 then dips to about 0.5 prior to the next dose. I also have a mineral based sanitizer ("Blue Stick") that I am using in addition.
Which dosing method is better?
I also have an additional question that I posed earlier. When I use both the Taylor 2006 test kit DPD chlorine test, as well as the LaMotte colorQ electronic test kit (also DPD) , the "pink color" produced by the reagents gets "pinker" over time, leading to different values the longer I wait. I assume I should read these ASAP?
I also noticed the dry reagent used for the Taylor kit gets clumpy (although I store it inside my house) and often takes longer to dissolve. Is there a 100% liquid version of this test?
Thanks
Purchased a Dynasty swim spa from my local dealer. They recommended the "Simple Blue" spa system which consists of adding 7.5 Oz of "Spa Manager" and 5 Oz "Power Boost" (AKA DiChlor 56% Cl-) each week. With this method, my FCl would get very high (over 10) and wouldn't come below 5 for a day or two (My wife tries to swim every other day). Another worker at the dealership recommended splitting the dose in 2, which gets the fCl level to about 5 then dips to about 0.5 prior to the next dose. I also have a mineral based sanitizer ("Blue Stick") that I am using in addition.
Which dosing method is better?
I also have an additional question that I posed earlier. When I use both the Taylor 2006 test kit DPD chlorine test, as well as the LaMotte colorQ electronic test kit (also DPD) , the "pink color" produced by the reagents gets "pinker" over time, leading to different values the longer I wait. I assume I should read these ASAP?
I also noticed the dry reagent used for the Taylor kit gets clumpy (although I store it inside my house) and often takes longer to dissolve. Is there a 100% liquid version of this test?
Thanks