Baking Soda and pH

Re: Ph to low

This statement is inaccurate.


The amount of baking soda in the water dictates the PH level exactly, with the caveat that Co2 content in the water causes variation.

see this chart: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/images/image002.jpg

Please don't use examples from fish tank chemistry. Reef tanks and fish tanks are very, very different from pool water to the point where practical analogies are difficult to make and of little value.

pH in pools is actually much more complicated than in aquaria as there can be three species which dominate the pH buffering in water - dissolved inorganic carbon (carbonate/bicarbonate/aqueous CO2), cyanurates and borates. Borates become significant at higher pH (pH near 8.0+) and cyanurates become significant at lower pH (~6.4). Both contribute to the alkalinity and pH buffering at typical pool pH values and changes in either will change how much acid or base is needed to move pH in one direction or the other.

Pool water is highly over-carbonated relative to the atmosphere so there is always a huge chemical driving force for CO2 to outgas from the water. At typical pool pH (7.0-8.0), the dominant carbonate species is the bicarbonate anion (HCO3-). For the sake of analogy, adding baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to pool water is like adding a tear drop to a 5 gallon bucket of salty pool water - the tear drop has higher salinity than a drop of water from the bucket but it will not change the salinity of the total bucket of water much. Adding excess baking soda to pool water will add more bicarbonate to the water, and that shift in equilibrium will eventually show up as a rise in pH (if aeration is present and CO2 outgasses) but that is a very slow process. Adding washing soda (sodium carbonate) to pool water will result in an IMMEDIATE pH rise because the carbonate anion (CO3--) will instantly consume a proton to form bicarbonate (HCO3-) since the carbonate anion is not stable at pool pH levels. This is why it is not recommended to use baking soda to raise pH, it's too slow. Borates in the form of borax will also raise pH fairly quickly as well by an increase in the hydroxide ion (OH-) concentration.

In a reef tank, where carbonate levels are much higher than pool water and pH is maintained at an optimal value of 8.2 (8.1-8.4 range is ok), the bicarbonate-carbonate ion system is much more important in order to maintain the deposition of calcium carbonate for reef health and growth. In pools, it is exactly the opposite - you want to avoid calcium carbonate deposition (i.e., scaling) to preserve pool equipment and pool surfaces and so you maintain as low a TA as possible. So the increase in TA by using baking soda to adjust pH is not at all ideal. It is best to use muriatic acid to lower pH and borax or natural aeration to raise pH in a pool.
 
Re: Ph to low

In pools, it is exactly the opposite - you want to avoid calcium carbonate deposition (i.e., scaling) to preserve pool equipment and pool surfaces and so you maintain as low a TA as possible. So the increase in TA by using baking soda to adjust pH is not at all ideal. It is best to use muriatic acid to lower pH and borax or natural aeration to raise pH in a pool.

This sounds right to me. Although I will note that we are in the spa forum here. Running the air jets happens, so the water comes into equilibrium with atmospheric co2 quickly. So long at the the PH is allowed to stabilize in between corrections, washing soda, baking soda, even 20 mule team borax, it doesn't matter, they ALL raise PH because they raise alkalinity.

Even in a pool, all the PH threads here on TFP deal with PH GOING UP, not down. That's because the pools are out-gassing co2, to the atmosphere. All the advice on the issue deals with coming into equilibrium, IE letting lowering total alkalinity until PH stops going up.

Adding bleach or fresh water causes alkalinity to go UP, and that is why PH is always rising in PH threads on TPF.

The only time PH is low here on TPF is because dry chlorine products being used are effectively acid, which LOWER TOTAL ALKALINITY WHICH CAUSES PH TO DROP.

The image that I linked to is neither confusing, nor irrelevant in any way.
 
Why does adding bleach or fresh water cause alkalinity to go UP? I thought that hypochlorous acid, produced by adding sodium hypochlorite, pretty much cancelled out the high pH of the sodium hypochlorite? Isn't it pretty much a pH neutral event? Also, adding fresh water only raises alkalinity if the source water is high in it.
 
Re: Ph to low

This sounds right to me. Although I will note that we are in the spa forum here. Running the air jets happens, so the water comes into equilibrium with atmospheric co2 quickly. So long at the the PH is allowed to stabilize in between corrections, washing soda, baking soda, even 20 mule team borax, it doesn't matter, they ALL raise PH because they raise alkalinity.

As the pH rises from aeration, the rate of outgassing slows considerably such that, on any realistic time scale (most people don't soak for more than hour or so) this would not likely happen. One would need to have very low TA values and high pH to get to a point where the water was in equilibrium with atmospheric CO2 but then they would be in danger of having their TA crash followed by a crash in pH.

I agree that those chemicals do affect TA and pH. But there are ways to change pH quickly and ways to change pH without affecting other parameters. TFP always tries to recommend methods of chemical additions that have the fewest/least-complicated side effects. Adding baking soda to raise pH is a slow process that requires aeration in order for it to work. We have had many users who accidentally had low pH water and added lots and lots of baking soda only to see very little change in pH. They then wonder why this does not help them even though the "covential wisdom" (aka, "look it up on Google") tells them it should. They are missing the key ingredient necessary to make that happen quickly (aeration) and then they're annoyed because the pH hasn't budged much and their TA is now sky-high. So TFP tries to help people in the most efficient way possible which is to use aeration or borax to raise pH.

Even in a pool, all the PH threads here on TFP deal with PH GOING UP, not down. That's because the pools are out-gassing co2, to the atmosphere. All the advice on the issue deals with coming into equilibrium, IE letting lowering total alkalinity until PH stops going up.

Not true. Many users on TFP experience falling pH as well. This is typically seen in vinyl pool where the source water is acidic. Pool water almost never comes into equilibrium with atmospheric CO2 levels. If you look at this chart you will see that a pool with 50ppm TA and a pH of 7.7 still has twice as much dissolved CO2 relative to atmospheric levels.

Adding bleach or fresh water causes alkalinity to go UP, and that is why PH is always rising in PH threads on TPF.

The only time PH is low here on TPF is because dry chlorine products being used are effectively acid, which LOWER TOTAL ALKALINITY WHICH CAUSES PH TO DROP.

Adding bleach does not raise alkalinity in any permanent sense. Bleach added to water initially raises pH but all chlorine reactions with biological and organic compounds are acidic so the pH rise is offset completely. There is a small amount of excess lye (NaOH) in all bleach that is used to stabilize the hypochlorite anion, but this does not add to the alkalinity in any meaningful way. The amount of hydroxyl anions (OH-) added is trivial when you consider the volumes of bleach added with respect to the total pool volume.

See this post for details on bleach chemistry.

The image that I linked to is neither confusing, nor irrelevant in any way.

It is confusing not because it is incorrect, but because it uses terms like "Elevated", "Normal" and "Deficient" CO2 levels without defining what those are. It also reports alkalinity in units of meq/L which is not a term anyone using a pool test kit would know (it's a unit of measure chemists like to use to simplify the math) and it shows a pH range far above what would be found in typical pools. So, in terms of overall usefulness to a forum full of pool owners, it has little technical value.
 
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