AZ Dust Storm And Now This Monstrocity. HELP!!

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I just searched for one of my old posts from last year. I was experimenting some with the OTO test kit, as I had to maintain extremely high FC last summer due to astronomical CYA and water restrictions

"When it's yellow yellow yellow it's roughly 10. At 12-13, roughly, the color will be school bus yellow (maybe Caterpillar - construction equipment, not bug - yellow). Hunter orange is around 18."
 
^^^^^ What Optica said ^^^^^^

Plus, yes. Indeed... it is looking better and better!

That bomb you dropped was massive, it sure did a number on your pool. Not sure if it's a good thing and it would never be recommended (as chlorine can do damage at high levels) but for your purposes of getting it done by next friday... It seems to have worked very well.

Dilute the water, 2:1 and run that test again. If that shows red or orange still you're good. Don't add chlorine till it turns yellow again, and don't let it go less yellow than the upper yellow on that test kit (5ppm x 3 = 15ppm which is your shock level). Dilution method is not going to be accurate, but for now it will help you with a general idea of when and how much bleach to add to keep it maintained.

It looks to me like you've got a considerable amount of the algae killed. Don't let it stall and re-grow. Now all you have to do is maintain 15ppm till you have no combined chlorine (your new test will tell you this), the water is clear, and you pass the overnight chlorine loss test. You've got a ways to go still but I think you're going to be in good shape for the party as long as your filter can clear the dead algae in time.

You might consider brushing up the walls, at the water line to give the rocks a good chlorine bath in case there's any algae hanging out above the water. Repeat frequently.

I can't wait to see that cave in it's intended glory. Got a light in there? Cave monsters? :~}
 
Richard320 said:
I just searched for one of my old posts from last year. I was experimenting some with the OTO test kit, as I had to maintain extremely high FC last summer due to astronomical CYA and water restrictions

"When it's yellow yellow yellow it's roughly 10. At 12-13, roughly, the color will be school bus yellow (maybe Caterpillar - construction equipment, not bug - yellow). Hunter orange is around 18."
Click to expand...

I'd bet he's still running over 20ppm after 28 gallons of bleach. That's a brick red color, crazy high.

I for one am amazed at the quick results even if it's not a safe/proper way to do it.
 
Not really necessary, or much of a good idea right now either. We don't really know what the chlorine level is in the first place and whatever chlorine isn't burned off by sunlight is being used to battle the algae. Your pool is teal colored... there is still algae in there. Blue'ish and cloudy will be your next color hue, but if you fall below shock level you'll stay teal and algae will begin to re-grow.

Did you try the dilution test yet?
 
Update: Pool is completely clear with no algae. :party: :whoot: :party: :whoot: :cheers: There's overcast today so the pics I took are a little misleading and give the illusion of cloudiness so I'll try again later when the sun is shining.

I haven't performed the dilution check yet. Chlorine measured today at very yellow, but no longer red/rust. PH was a little high so I added a little muriatic acid this afternoon.

I'm still in shock - pun intended - at how quickly everything turned around for me and my pool. If you all recall, I believe I began this process Monday morning. I guess 28 gallons of shock was the right recipe for me and my pool. Is this type of turn around typical for climates such as AZ?
 
LOL, you bombed the pool...<pool> :whip: :whip: :whip:

An anomaly because that's not the best way to go about it, as damage could occur. If we told people to bomb the pool and something bad happened... well that would suck for everyone involved. hehe. It is fortunate for you, and rather interesting that it worked so well however.

Look up in the thread where Richard describes the different colors of the OTO test in relation to approximate values. The color for 15ppm is what you're looking for. Completing the process is just as important as starting and maintaining it or you loose ground. Keep the chlorine at or above 15ppm till you get your kit and can perform a CC and OCLT. Cloudy can and will likely remain without keeping it at shock level.

Party time in 5 days Daddy, keep the momentum so you can be running it at normal levels by Friday. :~}

BTW, clouds sure do un-sparkle even the best of pools but they don't look cloudy. I think you might notice some difference from today when all the dead algae is really gone and your levels are in balance.
 
Looking good, better each day for sure.

Keep shocking. 15ppm or better (but just a tad and only because you don't have a FAS-DPD test yet). Yes the pool is clearer, but you're looking for clear-blue. You're more in the range of "clearer than totally opaque-teal" which to the untested water eye means algae remains.

The next color/hue could be "light blue can see the bottom but cloudy". The cloudy is dead algae, it takes time to filter out and absolutely normal, chances are you'll still need to shock then too. The cloudies will go away eventually and you'll be able to read the time on your watch after you drop it in.

You'll be amazed once it's actually clear. Keep the faith (chlorine)...
 

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Very yellow just means it's over 5 somewhere. Try the dilution test, or use Richard's color assessment information from the top of this page. Neither is accurate, although I think the dilution test would win in a competition.

"When it's yellow yellow yellow it's roughly 10. At 12-13, roughly, the color will be school bus yellow (maybe Caterpillar - construction equipment, not bug - yellow). Hunter orange is around 18."

edit: If you use the colors, shooting for hunter orange would be my choice, personally.
 
Well, my pool is absolutely crystal clear today. :party: :whoot: :party: :whoot: :party:

Question for the community. Should I return to using tablets in order to maintain chemical balance?

And thank you so much for all your help. I've been sleeping much more soundly the past couple weeks thanks to you all. A special thank you to "frogabog" for his stellar assistance and detail. I appreciate your help, sir. :goodjob:

asusundevils23
 
asusundevils23 said:
Feel as though I've taken a little step back this week. Although my pool is no longer green, I can't seem to get it commpletely clear. There's a very subtle cloudiness. Advices?
Click to expand...
Are you still shocking? Did you pass the tests that say you are done shocking?:

1. CC is 0.5 or lower;
2. An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
3. And the water is clear.

You mentioned earlier in this thread (7/27) you ordered the TF100 kit. Give us your test numbers: FC,CC,CYA, TA, ph.
 
If it is still cloudy you still need to shock and it will clear i think you just stopped shocking a little to soon. Do you know what your CYA level is ? have you ordered a good test kit yet you are really going to need one to keep the pool sparkling you need an accurate CYA test and you need to be able to check for combined chlorine .
 
Dude, there are tons of folks here trying to help you but you haven't even acknowledged most of their requests. Do you even want help or are you just yanking our chains?
If you want help then the next thing you need to do is post a full set of test results. You said you ordered a TF-100 over a week ago so now we need the numbers from it.

pH
FC
CC
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water clarity

I expect to see a set the next time you post if you really want help. If you don't, we really need to stop wasting these peoples time, because there are lots of other people that really need and want our help.
 
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