We just came back from 2 week vacation to find the water level on our recently completed pool had risen to the top of the tile. I drained some weather today and then inspected the auto fill valve, which has developed a crack and is leaking (see picture.) I'm worried that the only way for the builder to properly repair this will be to saw through the pool deck, which opens another can of worms. I'm not sure if the white plastic is PVC or not, but if so, I was thinking that they could pry the crack open slightly and put some PVC glue or epoxy in it, and then tighten a metal hose clamp around it to hold glued pieces together. Thoughts?
Auto fill leaking
- Thread starter cybertoad
- Start date
cfherrman
TFP Guide
Try a hose clamp first, unscrew the clamp to get it around it and then tighten it up really good. If it does help a lot you might take it off and use silicone and the clamp before going permanent with expoxy.
- Mar 5, 2017
- 603
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
If it’s similar to my old one, It’s not PVC pipe in the true sense-it’s a component of the autofill that’s hooked to PVC behind it. I’d have the builder look at it and see if the part can be threaded off the pvc nipple behind it.
I had problems where mine had the threads stripped so the replacement float valve wouldn’t thread on. Fix? JB Water Weld epoxy. I figure that’d work here. I’m concerned a hose clamp will just make the crack worse. You can unscrew the float off and then pack the threads with JB water weld epoxy. I do know those floats have a ‘cone’ style male thread that I’d imagine was the cause.
I had problems where mine had the threads stripped so the replacement float valve wouldn’t thread on. Fix? JB Water Weld epoxy. I figure that’d work here. I’m concerned a hose clamp will just make the crack worse. You can unscrew the float off and then pack the threads with JB water weld epoxy. I do know those floats have a ‘cone’ style male thread that I’d imagine was the cause.
I agree w KDp-guy. A clamp around a crack tightened will compress the crack and more than likely crack it more. I am not privy to the thread configuration, but you could also apply the JB water weld to the inside of the pipe of the threads were on the outside or near the crack. This area is under pressure so it needs to be properly treated.
if the only way is to dig up the area, I would do so while your PB is still under warranty..he's liable for all repairs, and to make them look seamless...go w the permanent solution either way...
if the only way is to dig up the area, I would do so while your PB is still under warranty..he's liable for all repairs, and to make them look seamless...go w the permanent solution either way...