Are chlorine tablets better than salt chlorine generators for some pool settings?

[cfortenberry]

Hello!
Our home and pool are located in the woods of deep East Texas We are constantly scooping out frogs, turtles and other small wildlife that make their way up from the woods and surrounding ponds on the property. We also remove many, many leaves and seed-like particles or pine needles. It seems like there is always something floating on top, even when the water is clear. Because of this (I think!), we are struggling to keep black algae spots out of the pool. It's rarely green, just very dark blackish spots that seem to grow into the plaster.

We currently have a salt chlorine generator. I've recently heard that pools surrounded by wooded areas might be better off with traditional chlorine tablets. This will begin our 4th summer with this pool and most likely the cell will need to be replaced in the near future. Does anyone have advice on converting to chlorine tablets? Would this have any impact on the black algae? Does anyone have tips for removing black algae aside from chiseling it out????

Thanks!
Callie

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

Chlorine is chlorine. Solid forms of chlorine (pucks, tablets) come with CYA and are acidic. Both, if not controlled, are problematic.

SWCG is one of the most consistent ways to maintain FC in a pool. Are you using the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to manage the level of FC in your water? Are you keeping your CYA in the 60-80 ppm range?

Read this on Black Algae Pool School - Black Algae

You may just need to SLAM and then maintain a slightly higher than normal FC for awhile to attack the stains.

 

[cfortenberry]

Thanks! I will have to get my husband to read your post before I can comment about the level of FC. That's his department. I will check out the Pool School post on black algae. We also have a rust issue, from bristles of a steel brush (used to work on the algae) that settled on the steps. I noticed other posts about this and will check them out.
Thanks again!
Callie

 

[Jimrahbe]

Callie,

Welcome to TFP.. a great place to find the answers to all your "Death Pool" questions...

The main reason you have algae is not because of the dead stuff in your pool, it is simple that you are not maintaining the proper ratio between your CYA and your FC levels.. See this chart (under saltwater pool).. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]..

I suspect you are trying to keep your FC levels way too low to prevent algae.

A saltwater pool is the easiest type of pool to maintain. I can't think of any reason that I would ever, ever, go back to tablets...

So tell us... what are your current readings for the following chemicals??

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

Thanks for posting.

Jim R.

 

[Donldson]

Welcome to TFP!

I've recently heard that pools surrounded by wooded areas might be better off with traditional chlorine tablets.

I'm very intrigued by this statement. Where did you hear this? Did they give you any reasoning for why this is supposedly true? I have never heard it before and I try to keep up on the advice that is out there, good or bad.

 

[Drd]

Welcome to TFP!


I'm very intrigued by this statement. Where did you hear this? Did they give you any reasoning for why this is supposedly true? I have never heard it before and I try to keep up on the advice that is out there, good or bad.

I'm guessing they suggested chlorine tablets over other forms of chlorine thinking it would better sanitize (due to the CYA content) based on all the organic matter falling into their pool compared with unstable liquid chlorine (includes Salt generated Chlorine) but the down side of Pucks are, as we all know, is eventually the very thing that extends the chlorine life becomes your achilles heel once the CYA reaches to high a level which doesn't take long at all and then you have to drain your pool to get rid of it and refill; not cheap.

Although salt systems do systematically generate and feed chlorine into the pool, I alternately have a liquid chlorine feeder because salt cells need replacing to often in our desert heat & expensive. The liquid chlorine feeder adds chlorine nightly while the pump is running. I just buy some liquid chlorine from my local pool store because I can count on their product to give me what I paid for compared to the big box stores, then I just add several gallons per feeder instructions and that's it for a week or so in the summer (longer in the winter). Otherwise, I just test every few days and adjust the PH as needed (like using dry acid I buy cheap in buckets and the bonus is Alkalinity is stable & moves in line with PH). Only other product I add is a Scale preventer once a month....that's it.

I also learned the quality of pool products is just as important because some are cheaper due to lower concentrations of chemicals or on sale due to sitting on the store shelves or inventory losing potency. So although you put in the right measurements per testing recommendations, you don't get the desired results and have to add more and more chemicals to achieve a balanced pool costing you more time and money.

 

[peirek]

I believe the dry acid is NOT good for salt cell as it attacks the plates. Do a search on this website for specifics. Only liquid MA is recommended for pH control.

 

[tim5055]

I'm guessing they suggested chlorine tablets over other forms of chlorine thinking it would better sanitize (due to the CYA content) based on all the organic matter falling into their pool compared with unstable liquid chlorine (includes Salt generated Chlorine)

Time to go back to Pool School. The comment "would better sanitize (due to the CYA content)" is actually backwards. CYA locks up chlorine and reduces it's ability to sanitize.

What is "unstable liquid chlorine (includes Salt generated Chlorine)"? Chlorine is chlorine is chlorine. There is not "stable" or "unstable" chlorine. No matter the source, the chlorine is the same be it from pucks, SWCG, or liquid.

I'll stop there, as several more comments you made are not correct.