Aquarite- unique question about run time.

uxbridgechris

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Bronze Supporter
Jan 25, 2018
655
uxbridge, Ontario Canada
This is my 3rd season. I have this Aquarite figured out down to a science. 5 hours run time per day @ 70% works perfectly for us. The problem is, in the spring and fall. I open stupid early and close stupid late. I extend my season so long in fact, I have many days when my automation system (Heater reader) turns the pump on for “frost protection”. This could be for a few hours at night or a couple days straight. The negative byproduct is that I am producing way too much Chlorine. Sorry to make a short story long but my questions is “how can I limit my Aquarite to 5 hours in a 24 hour period? Without manually flipping the switch.
 
What is your CYA?

How much is “too much chlorine “? What is your normal FC level? How do you test?
 
Lol. I just want suggestions on how to limit my Cell to 5 hours a day despite pump run time.
They don't work that way. Powered and water flowing means the SWG is running. "And" is the key. If you can power it down at the 5 hour mark it will quit. Probably need to be done manually.
 
Lol. I just want suggestions on how to limit my Cell to 5 hours a day despite pump run time.

Ok, you don’t want to play.:scratch:

Use SwitchBot | Your simple switch to a smart home | Alexa | Google Home to turn the SWG on and off on your schedule.


There are also more complex ways to push the button...

 
If your normal setting Is 70% and you want less chlorine, why not just turn it down? Altering run time or % setting have the same effect. If you really want SWG run time different from the pump run time you need to add a separate timer control for the SWG. But it’s much easier to just adjust the output.

A timer to control the SWG is only a necessity when you have a variable speed pump that is powered at all times.
 
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That’s a good theory. Then you create another problem. Let’s say I drop the Pump output by half and for argument sake I am using half the energy. I am still using twice the hydro consumption. Also, if you drop flow too low, you may not trigger your flow switches in the pump and heater. My heater is oversized for my pool so that I get really good recovery. 4 degrees F per hour. You drop your GPM too low and now you have 200F water running thru your lines. My 3/4hp makes way more sense for my application.
 
Let’s say I drop the Pump output by half and for argument sake I am using half the energy. I am still using twice the hydro consumption.
Half speed uses 1/8th the power (in theory. Real world, it's closer to 1/6th).

If you had automation, you could run the SWG at the lowest possible speed needed to activate the SWG.

That would only take about 200 watts.

When the heater turns on, the automation increases the pump speed as specified in the settings.

You should have gotten a variable speed pump and automation during the pool build.

You can switch now if you want to get the best performance at the lowest amount of effort.
 
I spared absolutely no practical expense when I designed this pool. I wanted extremely simple and reliable. That’s why I built and that’s what I got. If I thought more complex automation was worth it, I would have done so. Yes, I have this issue for a month in the spring. I am coming up with a solution. Maybe.
 
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