Aquarite T9 Cell bad? Can't Calibrate

May 2, 2017
99
SARASOTA, Fl
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
I have a T9 cell that is roughly 4 years old. It was reading about 3500 yesterday and then today I found it not generating and says 700. I tried multiple time to recalibrate but when I go through the procedure nothing actually happens, just cycles through the diagnostics menu (I have done it many times in the past).

I cleaned the cell with dilute MA and added salt to pool as a hail mary. Still not able to calibrate or get a reading. I know I should find out what the salinity of my pool is, but I also think clearly if it won't calibrate there must be a bigger issue. Any suggestions of breathing new life in to her or is it time to start shopping for a new salt cell?
 
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
Cell - 3E16314
Panel - 3A16319

Auto to Off - 84, 31.9, 0.00, 51P, -0, AL-0, r1.59, t-9, 400
Off to Auto - 84, 31.3, 0.00, 51P, -0, Al-0 r1.59, t-9, 400
Off 1 min to Auto - 84, 30.6, 0.33, 51P, -400, AL-0, r1.59, t-9, 400

I will test salinity today, I will need to get a kit.
 
Your TCell was manufactured in 2016 and is at least 5 years old.

Find a pool store that tests Hayward cells and bring your in. Chances are the cell is depleted.

You may want to open up the panel and examine the thermistor and look for burnt solder connections behind the K1 and K2 relays…

 
Your TCell was manufactured in 2016 and is at least 5 years old.

Find a pool store that tests Hayward cells and bring your in. Chances are the cell is depleted.

You may want to open up the panel and examine the thermistor and look for burnt solder connections behind the K1 and K2 relays…

I installed it about 4 years ago. I had bought it probably 6 months prior to installing so definitely close to 5 years old, about 4 actually in service.

I am going to order the Taylor kit from TFT, but in the meantime went by Pinch a Penny and they tested water salinity at 5000. I will call around and see who can test, but sounds like she is dead. I will check the panel and test the cell just to be 100% sure.

Thanks!!!
 
they tested water salinity at 5000.

If that salinity is correct it is way high and more reason to check your board.

High salinity draws more amps which leads to overheating of components on the board.

For long life of the board it is best to keep the salinity at the low end of the range - 2800-3200 ppm.
 
If that salinity is correct it is way high and more reason to check your board.

High salinity draws more amps which leads to overheating of components on the board.

For long life of the board it is best to keep the salinity at the low end of the range - 2800-3200 ppm.
I know it's high, it wasn't that high. I made a rookie mistake of dumping a bag of salt in yesterday after seeing the reading being low on display rather than properly checking it to know what the actual reading is. I usually hovered around 3000 (but that was trusting the reading of the Aquarite). Lesson learned will make sure testing salinity part of my routine.

I popped the cover off and looked behind board best I could without completely uninstalling and it looks good to me. I didn't see any obvious signs of burnt spots or burnt solder connections I will call around to see who can test the cell as a next step. If it tests good then I guess will need to dive deeper in to the board.
 

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So reading through similar threads as mine and I found some posts about orientation of the cell. Mine has always been belly up. I have more recently been running my VS pump longer at lower RPM. Is it possible having it that way possibly caused damage with low flow rates?
 
So reading through similar threads as mine and I found some posts about orientation of the cell. Mine has always been belly up. I have more recently been running my VS pump longer at lower RPM. Is it possible having it that way possibly caused damage with low flow rates?

No, hump up would just cause the cell to generate less chlorine, not stop.
 

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New cell arrived yesterday and I am back in business. After getting my Taylor kit, I found my salinity was truly closer to 9k!!!! Don't be me and rely on what your panel says, make testing Salinity part of routine. I had to waste a lot of good water to get things back in range.
 
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