AquaRite SWG not producing chlorine

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Triplejnj

Triplejnj

0
May 16, 2015
64
Jackson, NJ
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hey gang,
I'm entering my 4th season with the pool and have been following TFP methods for most of it. Tremendous resource!
The other day (day after I added 10lbs of calcium chloride, coincidence?) I noticed a 3ppm drop in my chlorine level and realized that it was my SWG not generating chlorine. I switched to Super Chlorinate and after a few seconds the Check Salt and Inspect Cell lights illuminated and stayed that way. Even after turning it off and switching it back to Auto. I removed the cell and gave it an acid wash with 4:1 water/muriatic acid. Hosed it off well and re-installed it. No more error lights. I assumed all was well until the next day when I noticed it still did not generate any chlorine. The panel still shows no error lights and the Generating light is on. Any ideas?
Here are the numbers in the display:

3400
72
26.6
6.64
39P
-3500
AL-0
r 1.59
t-15

The pool is clear and recently passed OCLT so its not additional chlorine consumption.
Thanks!

FC: 6
CC: 0
PH: 7.4
TA: 60
CYA: 70
CH: 170

########################################
UPDATE 9:30am EST :::::
As a test, I just switched it back to Super Chlorinate and immediately the "Check Salt" and "Inspect Cell" lights came back on. My display now shows the following (my original readings were from about 2 hours ago):
0
73
32.4
0.00
39P
-0
AL-0
r 1.59
t-15

Is this indicative of a faulty PCB?
 
Last edited:
The display numbers you posted say chlorine is being generated after your acid wash.

How long do you run your pump and SWG for? What size is your SWG cell? What is your salt PPM?
 
ajw22 said:
The display numbers you posted say chlorine is being generated after your acid wash.

How long do you run your pump and SWG for? What size is your SWG cell? What is your salt PPM?
Click to expand...

Right, it indicates that but doesn't seem to be actually generating anything. Up until day before it was generating fine and maintaining FC levels.
The pump runs for about 9 hrs/day with SWG currently set to 39. Cell is a Hayward T-15 and salt PPM is about 3420
 
I think that what happened was you switched to Superchlorinate while the display was on instant salt and the cell was in the off part of the cycle.

There is a 180 minute cycle. The cell generates for the percentage of time you have set. For example, at 50%, the cell generates for 90 minutes and then rests for 90 minutes. While resting, the cell is not generating chlorine even though the generating light is still on.

When not generating, the instant salinity is 0. Any time you are on instant salinity and move the switch to Superchlorinate, you update the average salinity to whatever the instant salinity is. If instant salinity is 0, you make average salinity 0. If average salinity is less than 2,400 ppm, the check salt and check cell come on.

When on a diagnostic reading, you should not move the switch to Superchlorinate because it changes the setting.

If on temperature, it changes to Celsius. If on cell size, it changes to a different cell size. If on instant salinity, it updates the average salinity.

Restart and go to instant salinity and update when the reading is good.

Does the box stay powered when the pump is off?
 
James, you are correct. And thanks for the cycle explanation. I shut the system off for 5 minutes, back on, waited for the instant salinity reading, and then reset the average. The lights are now off. Which takes me back to square one... System appears to be functioning but not producing chlorine.
 
Ok, here's another update. With Super Chlorinate on, I just took a sample FC reading with water straight from the return jet closest to the pump. The FC was about 2.5-3 ppm higher than from a random spot elbow deep. I guess this means that I am in fact producing some chlorine. Does the amount seem about right?

Right now, diagnostics are:
3500
73
26.5
6.96
100P
-3500
AL-0
r1.59
t-15
 
If the amps are good (5.5 to 7.9), then it is definitely making chlorine.

If the instant salinity is correct, it is definitely making chlorine.

If the switch is in the "auto" position, the Power and Generating lights should be on.

I would avoid using Superchlorinate. If the chlorine gets behind, just catch up with liquid chlorine.

Make sure that the box is not powered when the pump is off. If the cell generates with no flow, it will read 0 salinity and mess up the average salinity. It could also explode due to chlorine gas and hydrogen gas mixing together.
 
JamesW said:
If the amps are good (5.5 to 7.9), then it is definitely making chlorine.

If the instant salinity is correct, it is definitely making chlorine.

If the switch is in the "auto" position, the Power and Generating lights should be on.
Click to expand...

I switched it back to Auto and yes, the Power and Generating lights are on. Though they were also on yesterday after I cleaned the cell and still lost my daily average of 3ppm. I set the % to 40 now (which is still higher than the ~30-35 I've usually maintained) and will see if my FC holds or increases by the end of the day. James, I appreciate the assistance. I'm pretty OCD about my pool and stuff like this bugs me.
 

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You may wish to do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight to determine if organics (algae) are consuming your chlorine faster than your SWCG can create it.

Raise your FC to target using liquid chlorine. The SWCG is not meant to 'catch up'. Use LC for that.

Take care.
 
mknauss said:
You may wish to do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight to determine if organics (algae) are consuming your chlorine faster than your SWCG can create it.

Raise your FC to target using liquid chlorine. The SWCG is not meant to 'catch up'. Use LC for that.

Take care.
Click to expand...

I did an OCLT last week and passed with ~1ppm loss, but may try another tonight. And yes, I have been using LC to keep the FC level in check. I've learned from this site over the years ;) Thanks!

JamesW said:
I think that it's working. The amps are a sure way to tell. You probably need the SLAM process to get caught up on the chlorine. Then, maintain the fc at about 10% of CYA. 9 hours per day at 40% is a little bit low for your pool during hot days.

Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
Click to expand...
Thanks again. With cooler temps forecasted for the near future I may use the time to SLAM, just to be sure there isn't something else consuming my chlorine. I will report back with results.
 
Thanks again. With cooler temps forecasted for the near future I may use the time to SLAM, just to be sure there isn't something else consuming my chlorine. I will report back with results.[/QUOTE]

If you have no indications you need to SLAM how will know when to end it?
 
ajw22 said:
If you have no indications you need to SLAM how will know when to end it?
Click to expand...

OCLT I did last week was 1ppm loss overnight, so passed, but barely. I'll bring FC up to SLAM level, give it a good vacuum/brushing and see if i can get OCLT loss to <= .5ppm over the weekend. And maybe one of these days the rain will stop and warmer weather will be here in NJ!
 
JamesW said:
Maybe just bring fc to 20% of CYA and do an OCLT.
Click to expand...

It was too late and I ended up starting a full SLAM for about 36 hours. Due to my CYA of 70 I was maintaining FC of 28. I finished Sunday morning with OCLT of 0ppm so now I'm letting FC drift down before i kick the SWG back on. From 5:30am on Sunday to 6pm on Monday, FC went from 28 to 16. Does that seem to much of a drop in 2 full days or is it normal for it to drop quicker at first since it was so high? Pool is sparkling clean.
 
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