I have an Aquarite with a T15 cell. The water, according to my local pool store, is perfect. The unit is about 5 years old. The cell, while never cleaned, appears spotless. I took the cover of the control panel and noticed a yellow wire leaning on my circuit limiter. The wire has been browned from the heat, but looks ok. Does anyone know what that wire does and/or if the heat could have been damaged it even though it looks ok? I did call Hayward but they refuse to answer anything that you can't find in the trouble shooting manual. They say it's a liability thing.
Aquarite only has power light on, all others off
- Thread starter bmarsili
- Start date
Move the switch to off and check the diagnostic readings. Then, move the switch to auto and recheck the readings.
Go to AL-5 and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto until the reading is AL-0.
Then, retry the tests and reset the average salt reading.
Note: The unit is probably at least 10 years old.
What are the first 4 characters of the serial number on the door of the box. The number should start with 3A or 5A.
What are the first four characters of the cell serial number? The number should start with 3E or 5E.
Then, retry the tests and reset the average salt reading.
Note: The unit is probably at least 10 years old.
What are the first 4 characters of the serial number on the door of the box. The number should start with 3A or 5A.
What are the first four characters of the cell serial number? The number should start with 3E or 5E.
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The AL-5 setting is used with automation.
If the settings are randomly changing, you should reset the display board.
If the settings are randomly changing, you should reset the display board.
I am unable to change the AL. It simply ignores the movement of the switch. The number on the bar code reads 5A0711.
There is a number on the box that reads G1-939001D.
There is a number on the box that reads G1-939001D.
The unit was made in November 2007. So, about 12 years old.
Try resetting the display board and then see if you can change the setting back to AL-0.
Do you have any automation?
Did this ever work for you?
Did you recently get this property?
What are the first four characters of the cell serial number? The number should start with 3E or 5E.
Try resetting the display board and then see if you can change the setting back to AL-0.
Do you have any automation?
Did this ever work for you?
Did you recently get this property?
What are the first four characters of the cell serial number? The number should start with 3E or 5E.
I will try to reset the display as you suggest when I get home from work. Thanks for the suggestion, will update you later today.
If the switch won't change the setting it might be a bad switch or a bad main board.
Does the switch work for turning the unit on and off?
Can you switch from standard to metric?
What is the model number of the box?
The box model number will probably start with something like AQ-.
What is the cell model number?
It should be something like T-CELL-15.
Does the switch work for turning the unit on and off?
Can you switch from standard to metric?
What is the model number of the box?
The box model number will probably start with something like AQ-.
What is the cell model number?
It should be something like T-CELL-15.
I reset the display board by removing it and putting it back. I am still unable to change the AL-5 to anything. I am able to change to metric and back. When I turn the switch to off, nothing happens. The unit has worked for me for the last 5 years with no issues. It is a T-CELL-15, the number is hard to read but looks like 5E?711 2060227*. I have a number is the box G1-085013H-2 T. The number outside the box is G1-939001D. Not sure what you mean by automation, but do not think I have it. Thoughts?
It looks like the main board is stuck on AL-5. I think that you're probably going to have to replace the main board if you can't get it to switch back to AL-0.
If the cell is from 2007, you're probably going to need a new cell. Cells usually work for about 5 to 7years.
If the cell is from 2007, you're probably going to need a new cell. Cells usually work for about 5 to 7years.
OK, Thanks for your time. Not what I wanted to hear, but it sounds like I got a good amount of use out of it and time for a new unit. Is the newest version of the aquarite what you would recommend?
You just need to replace the main circuit board. GLX-PCB-RITE.
I suspect that you will probably need a new cell.
What is the actual salinity as measured by a good test kit like a K-1766?
If you don't have a salt test kit, you should get one.
I suspect that you will probably need a new cell.
What is the actual salinity as measured by a good test kit like a K-1766?
If you don't have a salt test kit, you should get one.
K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
tftestkits.net
JamesW you nailed it. I got the new board (went with OEM board) and everything back to normal. I did not get the new T-Cell just yet since they are a bit pricey.
Thank you so much for your excellent diagnoses!!! Shame the manufacturer doesn't know what you know. They were a waste of time. Almost made me regret buying from them again.
Thank you so much for your excellent diagnoses!!! Shame the manufacturer doesn't know what you know. They were a waste of time. Almost made me regret buying from them again.
how much $$$JamesW you nailed it. I got the new board (went with OEM board) and everything back to normal. I did not get the new T-Cell just yet since they are a bit pricey.
Thank you so much for your excellent diagnoses!!! Shame the manufacturer doesn't know what you know. They were a waste of time. Almost made me regret buying from them again.
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 2,601
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Check your current limiter which is the flat thing with two leads at the top of the board by the lcd. They tend to blow a lot. They are about a $5 part that I have to replace every two year. See if it looks like it had a minor explosion or separated from itself.
The no load voltage reading is good. So, the current limiter (thermistor) is probably good.
In any case, the board is stuck on AL-5, which means that it's set to receive control from a remote controller.
Unless the setting can be changed from AL-5 back to AL-0, the board won't work unless you use a remote controller.
In any case, the board is stuck on AL-5, which means that it's set to receive control from a remote controller.
Unless the setting can be changed from AL-5 back to AL-0, the board won't work unless you use a remote controller.
My current limiter looked to be in good shape. I touched It, wiggled it and squeezed it. My initial symptom of only having the power light on from the get/go led me to believe I had different problem from the current limiter problem which is more like lights come on then go off after a short period of time. Mr. JamesW asked all the right questions and I'm 100% positive his advise was right on, even thought it cost me 200+ for the OEM part.