Aquarite not working, doesn't click when turned to Auto- only the power led lights up, display working- showing 0 salt,

[ra7]

The power light is on, but when you switch from off to auto there is no click. nothing happens, it doesn't generate. None of the other LEDs come on. The no flow does not come on when pump is off . Display works fine. Salt reads zero. I checked the back of the board and it looks good, no burnt spots. I had a black thermistor and replaced it. Tested voltage with a multimeter , using the information from http://www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/Aqua_Rite_1.59_Troubleshooting_Guide, everything looked good except the reading from the orange wire to the green ground lug was 26.3VAC instead of 10-14 VAC.
also tried a new T 15 cell, nothing changed.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
Display reading
0
78
0
100 P
-0
AL 5
r 1.55
t-15

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

 

[JamesW]

It looks like you're leaving out a reading.

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Check the yellow 20 amp fuse.

 

[ra7]

Thank you for your response. I did forget the cell voltage yesterday, it was 32.7

I ran the three test this morning, following your instructions , the reading were exactly the same.
The fuse looked good, but replaced it with a new one. The salt reading with a salt strip is 2800, the reading on the display was around 3100 before it went out.
cell 3E17298
Box 5A04003
cold
67
32.4
0
100%
-0
AL5
r 1.55
t 15
Thank you .

 

[JamesW]

Ok, I missed it yesterday, but the problem is AL-5.

Go to that number and move the switch from Auto to Off until it reads AL-0.

Edit- Go from Auto to Superchlorinate to change a setting.

 

[ra7]

I was wondering about that AL5. Yesterday I tried to change it to AL- O by going from Auto to Super chlorinate. Didn't change. I went out and tried from Auto to off, will not change.

 

[JamesW]

Sometimes the unit gets stuck on the wrong number and it won't change.

If you can't get it to change, you will probably have to replace the circuit board.

 

[JamesW]

Yesterday I tried to change it to AL- O by going from Auto to Super chlorinate. Didn't change. I went out and tried from Auto to off, will not change.

Auto to Superchlorinate is the correct procedure not auto to off as I incorrectly said.

 

[ra7]

The other numbers are the same, except instead of cold it reads 0 and the temp is 69.

 

[JamesW]

AL5 is used for Jandy automation.

So, the unit is looking for external input from a Jandy automation system.

Unless you can change it to AL0, it probably won't work.

 

[ra7]

Thank you for your help. I was hoping Auto to Off was the trick for changing the Product name. I will try again to change it.
Do you recommend getting a hayward board or one of the generic replacements.

 

[JamesW]

I prefer original equipment.

 

[ra7]

I agree. One more question, in your opinion is the board replacement a good option with the age of the unit vs a whole system replacement. I appreciate your time and sharing of your knowledge. I will try to change the AL setting again.
Thank you.

 

[JamesW]

The only other thing that will usually go wrong is the display board.

So, compare replacing both boards vs. the whole unit.

 

[ra7]

Thank you very much.