AquaPure PLC 1400 - faulty board or salt cell?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
V

Vol4Ever

Silver Supporter
Jun 3, 2023
47
West TN
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
We have super clean water in West TN and this salt cell has honestly given us problems from day 1. Having to replace every 2-3 years even though internals are crystal clean and I'm meticulous about watching chemical levels. Latest go around, I went through Jandy's technician guide step-by-step pushing test buttons on main control board & measuring point voltages. Everything was well within spec as shown in guide. We're simply not getting any chlorine. Like NONE. Here are highlights of most recent bout:
  • Controller set at 90%-100%. Off and on throughout day it shows as fine, but multiple times per day pops voltage error 123. Is this typically a BOARD or CELL problem? My gut says cell as when it's in normal operation @ 100%, cell terminals are receiving north of 25VDC. Hope this is the case as I already have (yet another) replacement cell on order!

  • More recently I can set to 100% and it will show fine for a few hours, but now it doesn’t show intermittent 123 error. Somehow resets itself to 0% setpoint without showing any errors, I guess since it’s not calling for the cell to operate. Again, BOARD or CELL? No idea what’s causing random reset to 0% as it’s never done that before.

  • Previous replacement was done by pool contractor under warranty around 2 years ago. New Jandy cell looks identical but shows a weird “R” model number with “N/A” for the serial. I was advised this is just how warranty pieces are delivered. But contractor had to completely re-pipe to install it. All 3 connections on old unit were exact same size, but this one has inlet/outlet connections *slightly* smaller than bottom tri-sensor connection, ballpark 1/8” smaller, but enough to require different size threaded collar. Was that a permanent global product design change, or something specific to warranty replacements? Now that I’ve ordered new off-the-shelf unit, I don’t want to re-pipe all over again because connectors don’t fit!
New poster, but any help greatly appreciated!

~Vol
 
Mine was new in Aug 21 and in May of 22 it was resetting itself to zero. Builder replaced the control board. Thread below. Mine is now not producing chlorine again as of today so ill be contacting builder tomorrow. Seems to be some quality issues on newer parts...

Jandy 1400 Randomly turns off

Hi, I've been trying to troubleshoot an issue I'm having with my Jandy 1400 SWG. For some reason the output percentage randomly changes to zero. I've been trying to duplicate the steps but I haven't been able to except that it seems to happen sometime after I change the percentage from the PDA...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
  • Sad
Reactions: YippeeSkippy
Had this buried in another topic but maybe it's better as a standalone question. I have 2 different vintage 1400's.

On one, all 3 ports (inlet, outlet, trisensor) are EXACTLY same size and connector.

On the other, the inlet/outlet are just a tiny bit smaller, maybe by 1/8". Still in 2" piping system but requires different coupler than trisensor.

My question is which is the newer version? I THINK it's the one with 3 identical. That's the way our pool was originally piped, but pool contractor had to re-plumb when Jandy supplied a warranty cell. It's almost like the warranty replacement was the OLD model..... Probably getting rid of shelf stock? Can anyone confirm? Simplest test is to take a current brand new cell and see if same bottom trisensor connector threads onto inlet and outlet ports.

Hope that's not as confusing as it sounds!
 
Please show us pics of the two different cells and the labels on them.

Maybe @JamesW knows some history here.
 
Here are a couple of requested pics. The old is model PLC1400. When it went out, Jandy replaced under warranty with model R0475400. Jandy advised that new showed "N/A" as serial number to denote it was a warranty replacement. Full assembly pic shows I never repainted pipe after pool contractor re-plumbed. The R0475400 has SLIGHTLY smaller inlet/outlet connections, roughly 1/8" overall diameter difference.

Latest (paid) replacement came in yesterday and it matches the old PLC1400 that was removed. You can see in pic there is very little PVC left for an easy re-plumb this time. Running out of pipe and will probably have to go all the way back to the filter . . . with yet another new tail piece required and those ain't cheap. May be able to shift entire assembly a little more to the right 1 more time, but it will be tight.

Main question is which of the 2 models is considered current. Don't want to have to re-plumb yet again next time replacement comes up! Also found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Pump-Union-Split-Repair-pentair/dp/B0BX2LD4TF

Model shown is too small based on dimensions in listing. It shows 2.98" coupler OD and I need 4". Also saw where people had gently cut new regular coupler and then tightened with a circular band clamp. At this point, I'm willing to try any homebrew recommendation before replumbing whole thing again.
 

Attachments

  • Overall.jpg
    Overall.jpg
    552.6 KB · Views: 14
  • Side By Side.jpg
    Side By Side.jpg
    338 KB · Views: 14
My PLC1400 which was purchased new less than a year ago has all 3 connections as the same size. The manual shows which configuration is preferred based on if unit is installed vertically or horizontall. IMG_8003.jpeg
 
Vol4Ever said:
Also saw where people had gently cut new regular coupler and then tightened with a circular band clamp. At this point, I'm willing to try any homebrew recommendation before replumbing whole thing again.
Click to expand...
I think it is worth the effort and ensure no leaks if you replumb using the proper Jandy unions to connect the PLC1400. I have shown on the picture attached that I would cut below the 90 deg elbow on the left and then at that coupler on the right near the filter. This gives you plenty of room to hand fit before you glue.

As stated earlier I think the newer units have all 3 union threads the same size. I know mine does because I was trying different configurations and I dry fitted both options before doing it.

The frustrating part with Jandy is that you can buy separately the collar (the big part that screws the 2 halves together) and the half union (where the collar slides on), but you cannot purchase the other half of the union (the piece that is built onto the SWCG).
IMG_0308.jpeg
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
HermanTX said:
I have shown on the picture attached that I would cut below the 90 deg elbow on the left and then at that coupler on the right near the filter. This gives you plenty of room to hand fit before you glue.
Click to expand...
That's the spot I was thinking on the filter side, but maybe just before the white 45 on the left. May push it too far out, though, by the time I get a second straight coupler and new 45 pieced in there. Wish the existing coupler wasn't so close to the vertical 90, but definitely not enough to make cut there.

Also still looking at these split couplers. Example Amazon link in my post above was too small, but I think this one might do it:

Pump Union Split Nut - 2.5" FBT

Not the ideal solution but holy smokes would it save a potload of labor. Just have to make sure the ID is small enough to still grab the existing tail piece.
 
EDIT: Talked to tech support at Miracle Plastics (who makes these split couplings) and the guy said he literally gets calls all the time for Jandy. He said pool mfrs were really "weird" with their thread designs & confirmed his third party universal solution wouldn't work with anything for Jandy. Pretty much locked into namebranded hardware, which I guess is why they charge $50+ for (1) simple plastic nut & PVC spool piece! Only choice in saving a total re-plumb is getting a Jandy nut, cutting in half with super thin, sharp blade, and finding a circular clamp to hold it together tight enough to thread. I've seen it done in a few random forums, but probably a pipe dream (pun intended!) for me.
 
Vol4Ever said:
That's the spot I was thinking on the filter side, but maybe just before the white 45 on the left. May push it too far out, though, by the time I get a second straight coupler and new 45 pieced in there. Wish the existing coupler wasn't so close to the vertical 90, but definitely not enough to make cut there.
Click to expand...
Cutting the 90 deg elbow off on left allows you to rotate a new one just slightly because you will be a little longer coming from out from the filter. Actually, it will make it easier to get it all to fit rather than trying to force back to a set angle that is existing now.
 
Pool contractor (good friend) came back out & helped re-plumb. For a nice fee of course. Ha! Anyway, new pipe looks pristine and there are no leaks. Was time for good ol filter cartridge deep clean, so I knocked that out while we had it all down.

Powered up, worked perfectly, but then whammo. A few hours into operation, and dreaded 123 on the screen again. Fudge.

He commented his next step would be trisensor, but that seems odd. Can't figure out how that particular component has anything to do with voltage issue at cell. But he's a pool pro. Is he right that really is the best thing to try next?
 
Vol4Ever said:
Pool contractor (good friend) came back out & helped re-plumb. For a nice fee of course. Ha! Anyway, new pipe looks pristine and there are no leaks. Was time for good ol filter cartridge deep clean, so I knocked that out while we had it all down.

Powered up, worked perfectly, but then whammo. A few hours into operation, and dreaded 123 on the screen again. Fudge.

He commented his next step would be trisensor, but that seems odd. Can't figure out how that particular component has anything to do with voltage issue at cell. But he's a pool pro. Is he right that really is the best thing to try next?
Click to expand...
Hope the “nice fee” was beer!
Have you looked at the 3 pins on the cell itself. Are they corroded or in good shape at the base where they connect to the cell?
Look at the plug as well - does it look corroded where the push onto the 3 pins.
You may need to purchase a new wire.
 
It's not a trisensor problem.

123 - Low to no current at cell - check DC cord, clean cell or replace if necessary.

Can you show the circuit board?

Check the current and voltage.

Check the cord connectors.
 
The re-plumb was to install a brand new cell. Due to budgetary constraints, I went on a limb and tried the Compupool model with clear housing advertised as direct Jandy PLC1400 drop in. Re-plumb is a long story described above. Nutshell is previous cell was warranty by Jandy and had different connector size requiring a re-do. This latest piping took me right back to where I started in terms of connectors. Re-piped and 2 years later re-piped back. No idea why their warranty unit was such a hassle for fitment??

Anyway, the Compupool has a built-in DC cord. So brand new cell, and new DC cord. Still same error code. It's aftermarket, but I still feel confident it's not the problem.

James's link above (on quick scan) looks sorta like a regurgitation from Jandy's technician manual. I went through it with all the various button tests showing correct values and even did all the point voltage measuring on the backboard. Good on those too.

That's why I'm totally stumped, but throwing parts at it is getting expensive!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply