Aquaplus Check system indicator

[JamesW]

2,400/3,200 = 75% efficiency on one polarity and 2,600/3,200 = 81% in the other polarity.

At 75%, it is usually time to think about replacing the cell.

Check for scaling and clean the cell if necessary, but only if necessary.

Check the plates for corrosion.

If the plates are not corroded, you can change the cell type to T-9 and get some more life out of the cell or you can add more salt to make it work.

You should be 100% sure about the actual salinity and you never want to completely rely on any single test no matter how reliable the test seems.

I would recommend at least three different salinity tests including a calibrated meter that are all within 300 ppm of each other before I would consider the salinity to be known to a reasonable degree of certainty.

 

[lucasaltic]

2,400/3,200 = 75% efficiency on one polarity and 2,600/3,200 = 81% in the other polarity.

At 75%, it is usually time to think about replacing the cell.

Check for scaling and clean the cell if necessary, but only if necessary.

Check the plates for corrosion.

If the plates are not corroded, you can change the cell type to T-9 and get some more life out of the cell or you can add more salt to make it work.

You should be 100% sure about the actual salinity and you never want to completely rely on any single test no matter how reliable the test seems.

I would recommend at least three different salinity tests including a calibrated meter that are all within 300 ppm of each other before I would consider the salinity to be known to a reasonable degree of certainty.

Man... I thought that might be the problem.... I inspected the cell about a month ago and there is zero scaling. Did not look close enough to see if there is any corrosion, but they looked pristine when I checked. If these were produced in late 2018, isn't that rather soon for them to fail? I've heard these things last for 10 years... these ones are less than 4 years old.

I will run new salinity tests as my latest was done almost a month ago. But the two before that were essentially the same and they were all done within about a 3 week period. You're saying to use a meter though? Would that be a TDS meter? Can I just do 3 consecutive silver nitrate tests?

 

[JamesW]

@JamesW
@JoyfulNoise

More info…..

I received a salt meter, 3000ppm calibration solution, and new AquaChek salt test strips (used these successfully for years before switching to the K1766 last August). Note; the below results are rounded to the nearest 100.

First I tested the calibration solution using the strips and K1766. The strips are closer to the 3000ppm standard solution in this case.

Strips: 2800
K1766: 3400

I then tested the pool using the strips, calibrated meter, and K1766:

Strips: 3200
Meter: 3400
K1766: 3800
SWCG readout: 3100
When I took the cells to Leslies for testing, they checked my pool salt level using some electronic device, result 3300

The K1766 seems to be the outlier here.

For me, the point of all this is trying to identify a reliable way I can tell when my salt cell needs to be replaced. It’s been stated here that if the SWCG reported salt level is less than 75% of the actual salt level (using the K1766 per TFP recommendations), the cell needs to be replaced. However, following this advice led me to buying a new cell unnecessarily (next time I’ll have the cell tested before buying a new cell). Frankly, at this point, I don’t trust the K1766 to help me determine if a cell needs replacement.

Thoughts? Am I missing or misunderstanding something? Input appreciated.

I never trust any single test.

I always want to see several tests that are in close agreement before I will trust a reading.

I will usually use the SWG, a meter and a K-1766 to test to make sure that they are all in agreement.

 

[JamesW]

You're saying to use a meter though? Would that be a TDS meter? Can I just do 3 consecutive silver nitrate tests?

Use a conductivity meter set to salinity, not set to TDS.

Any test can be off.

I would want three independent reliable tests that are all in agreement before I feel confident in the actual level.

You can have the cell and salinity tested at a store that tests cells.

Home

Hayward offers environmentally responsible, cutting-edge pool and spa equipment for residential and commercial, in-ground and above-ground pools.

www.hayward-pool.com

 

[lucasaltic]

Use a conductivity meter set to salinity, not set to TDS.

Any test can be off.

I would want three independent reliable tests that are all in agreement before I feel confident in the actual level.

You can have the cell and salinity tested at a store that tests cells.

Home

Hayward offers environmentally responsible, cutting-edge pool and spa equipment for residential and commercial, in-ground and above-ground pools.

www.hayward-pool.com

Thanks for the help James.

 

[JamesW]

I've heard these things last for 10 years... these ones are less than 4 years old.

5 to 7 years is typical or about 8,000 to 10,000 hours of actual production time.

Acid washing can shorten the life significantly.

 

[lucasaltic]

5 to 7 years is typical or about 8,000 to 10,000 hours of actual production time.

Acid washing can shorten the life significantly.

Yeah hard to tell what may have transpired before I got it. I did do one acid wash when I got it as it was pretty scaled. Have not had scale since I started the TFP program.

UPDATE: I just did my monthly tests and the salt content came out to 3,000 ppm per the Taylor drop test. Instant salt is reading 2,400(-)/2,600(+) ppm so I’m sitting right at 80% on negative and 86% on positive polarity. That’s still (just) within tolerance.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed?

 

[JamesW]

If the plates are not corroded, you can change the cell type to T-9 and get some more life out of the cell or you can add more salt to make it work.