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Aqualogic Losing Time?
- Thread starter tagprod
- Start date
I'd like to thank you for identifying the parts and sharing this - saved me $420+! My real time clock was not keeping time correctly and I was able to correct it by replacing the capacitor and crystal. I tried replacing the capacitor first, the problem persisted. After replacing the crystal the clock started working correctly and has done so for the past 2 months.
One thing that was interesting was that after I replaced the parts, the clock stayed at the set time and did not change which lead me to believe I had damaged something during my soldering job. After about 24 hours the real time clock started working and after adjusting it to current time it's worked perfectly since.
Can you add a photo? I have already replaced the board once, I believe it was still under warranty. I also believe they switched it with another board that did not belong. That’s why I’m getting conflicting information on which board to purchase. I all I need to do is purchase a capacitor for $3.00, I’ll try that first!
I have a G1-066008N-1 which is losing time.
There is no sign of corrosion or major capacitor failure.
The C3 cap looks a little aged thats about it.
Would you say that the capacitor is the root cause of the time loss or another component?
There is no sign of corrosion or major capacitor failure.
The C3 cap looks a little aged thats about it.
Would you say that the capacitor is the root cause of the time loss or another component?
Any updates to this thread? Having same symptoms, gonna have it looked at tomorrow.
UPDATE: Capacitor C3 is bad.
Getting conflicting info from members here on which capacitor it is: 5.5v .33uF OR 5.5v .33F
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
UPDATE: Capacitor C3 is bad.
Getting conflicting info from members here on which capacitor it is: 5.5v .33uF OR 5.5v .33F
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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I am having A very similar problem. My aqua logic gold line panel slowly lost time. Now it doesn’t change time at all. I don’t see any capacitor like you guys are talking about on my panel in that C3 position
Attachments
- May 3, 2007
- 17,393
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The capacitor is in the upper left corner right above the white empty connector J13. You can see the C3 label in the picture.
Can anyone comment that all three components, C3 - the Super Cap, U2 - the Real Time Clock, and U1 - the microprocessor, all have to be changed out to make the clock work correctly? Or if only changing out C3 is sufficient assuming the two other components don’t look in away way damaged or corroded?
Thanks for your help! I changed my super capacitor out and so far so good. I bout the real time chip but chose not to change it due to the capacitor looking like it was blown.
So, I pulled the board and attempted to replace the c3 capacitor with no success. Then I replaced the whole board ($450 on amazon) but now I am getting an error “no cell power” for my salt water chlorinator. I made sure the plug is in well and tried to re-start the chlorinator. I hear a rather loud surge when it tries to kick back on, but it is not successful. Thoughts?
- May 3, 2007
- 17,393
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
In the upper right corner of the board there should be two wires (black and red) that run from the rectifiers to the board. The voltage between those leads should be around 18-33v. This might provide some help as well.
If everything checks out, then it might just be a bad board. Check for warranty.
If everything checks out, then it might just be a bad board. Check for warranty.
Fini - so did you actually replace C3 or did not solder a new one in place and went to the board replacement?
Tried unsuccessfully to replace c3. Then replaced the whole board.
Thank you for all of your help. I had one of the recrifier’s wires in the wrong place.
I tried replacing the surface mount parts shown here - but alas - I don't really have that soldering skill. I just decided to go ahead and replace my board. Can someone post a picture of the board installed? I'm pretty sure I know where all the cables re-connect - but there are a couple that have more than one possibility and I want to be 100% sure I get everything reconnected correctly. Thank you!
- May 3, 2007
- 17,393
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Correction to my success. After replacing the C3 the time worked great for about a month and is now back to losing time in 5 hour increments a day. I'm going to replace the real time clock and hope for the best i guess.
lland
0
Same clock issues with my GLX-PVB-MAIN. Losing 5 hours or so per day. Found this thread and ordered a couple of capacitors and clock chips (cheap enough that I ordered 2 of each) from Digikey. Changed the capacitor yesterday (old one looked a bit charred). BTW, there's an arrow printed on the board and the side of the capacitor to show what direction to install it. Did that first, figuring if that worked I wouldn't have to deal with surface soldering a new clock chip. Once I got it up and running, the clock lost ten minutes in the first hour. Not encouranging but later that evening, I noticed the clock hadn't lost any more time. Reset it and as of this morning, it is spot on so I'm hoping it's fixed...permanently. I'll post a follow up if things change. Thanks TFP. Saved me $500 or so.
Spoke too soon. Clock was fine from 9:00 PM to about 8:30 AM and has lost about 20 minutes in the following two hours. I'm going to try to replace the clock chip later today, hoping it works. Will report results.
Update: Replaced the X2 (32.768 kHz Crystal Epson MC-306) and things are running just as they should. Clock has been spot on. It's only been a couple of days, but I'm being optimistic.
LL
Spoke too soon. Clock was fine from 9:00 PM to about 8:30 AM and has lost about 20 minutes in the following two hours. I'm going to try to replace the clock chip later today, hoping it works. Will report results.
Update: Replaced the X2 (32.768 kHz Crystal Epson MC-306) and things are running just as they should. Clock has been spot on. It's only been a couple of days, but I'm being optimistic.
LL
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