Aqualink PDA to Aqualink RS with pc simulator

[REKIV]

I have an Aqualink PDA, and I find it very cumbersome. The back button sticks when pressed, and that just makes navigating through the sub menus even more difficult. My pool was built in 2017, and I went cheap on the controller. I got what I paid for. The power center motherboard is a 2006 model, and the MCU daughter board is a 2012 model PDA PS4 Rev 7.1. Anyway... I did extensive reading on upgrading the Aqualink PDA, and I really like dfwnoob's "Controlling Aqualink RS system with cheap PC hardware". So I'm going to replace the MCU board soon. I bought a daughter board with the RS4 P&S Rev T.2 chip from ebay for $70. I dusted off an old macbook and installed Windows 11 on it. The Aqualink Simulator still works on Microsoft's newest operating system. I also bought a USB-C to RS485 adapter as the macbook only has one USB-C port. Otherwise, I would have bought the recommended JBtek USB adapter.
A pool care company cleans my pool weekly and adds salt and chemicals as needed. I don't know what my pump settings are, but I'm going to need to reprogram the aqualink when I replace the MCU. What settings do I need to get from the handheld PDA before I attempt the upgrade? My aqualink has 2 red terminal bars, and both are connected. One is to the j-box, and I need to find out what the other connection is. To use the Aqualink Simulator, do I disconnect the J-box and connect my RS485 adapter to pin 2 and 3? Will the PDA work with the RS4? I don't think I'll ever want to use the PDA again once I switch the RS, but I'm just curious. Thanks

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Note what devices are wired to which AUX relays. Note all schedules. Note any actuators assigned to AUX circuits.

You can have two wires connected to each RS-485 screw. So PDA J-Box and RS-485 adapter can be connected .

PDA will be display only.

@PoolGate upgraded from PDA to iAqualink.

 

[PoolGate]

Yeah upgrade is simple. Swap boards and a little bit of aux port mapping and you're done. The pda will continue to work as long as you keep the pda antenna plugged in. So you'll need both antennas. Pda will become just an on and off remote control. Programming will move to your phone or web interface. You can take it apart and clean the contacts to fix that sticky key.

Not sure that version works with advanced cyphers so if you have Wi-Fi connection issues try lowering the security on your Wi-Fi until it works.

Be advised that RS requires an Internet connection. If your Internet is down your existing programs will work and you can turn things on and off from the pda but you won't be able to change anything. The phone and web interface will not work without the Internet working.

 

[REKIV]

Thanks, that's the info I need. Hopefully a reasonably priced IQ wifi antenna will show up on ebay. Until then, I'll use the PC aqualink sim.

 

[REKIV]

I found a IQ20 transceiver on Ebay for $300. A nice pool shop owner was selling his display model. I connected it to the same terminal bar as my PDA transmitter, and I ran a ethernet cable from the back of my garage to my wifi router. It worked! Then I installed the MCU with the T.2 chip, and Voilà. All functions of the pool are now easily accessible and programable via the iaqualink app. I did a $1500 upgrade for $370. A big thank you to this site, @dfwnoob, and whoever wrote "Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading"!