Aqualink 2.0 … PDA Needed?

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thegizzard

thegizzard

Gold Supporter
May 9, 2021
140
Charlotte, NC
Pool Size
19300
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Hello all. This is my first post. This is a great forum and I have learned so much.

I am working with my PB on our first pool. So I am learning everything from scratch. I am interested in the Aqualink 2.0 system.

My PB originally recommended an Aqualink system with a PDA. I assume I do not need a PDA if I have Alexa and phone/tablet control. My only doubt is if the internet is down.

Does Aqualink work in local network and WiFi is up but internet is down?
 
It does not work if the internet is down. A PDA interface will mitigate this as will any physical interface but you should still get the full web interface version with the iq20-rs functionality.
 
Agreed on the iq20-rs. Does anyone have experience using Aqualink 2.0 without a PDA? I am assuming I won't miss it, but I am curious about others experience.
 
You don't need nor will you use the PDA at all. It is strictly as a backup. I have a PDA system converted to iq20-rs.
 
Here is the deal with the PDA. With a PDA based system, that is, an Aqualink system WITHOUT the IQ20-RS option, you use the PDA to program Aqualink. It is clumsy and cumbersome to program with the PDA. You will see this with PDA systems that were upgraded with the IQ20-a upgrade, which adds (very) basic phone app and web support, but doesn't upgrade Aqualink to the RS version. I suspect your builder is going to do this. Get you an Aqualink PDA system with the IQ20-a "upgrade". This combination is near useless and what my builder did to me. I have since upgraded to the full IQ20-RS which switches the PDA to just another input device and allows me to program the system with either the phone app or web interface. Do not let your builder do that to you!

If you start with the RS system, you will not need nor ever use the PDA. You cannot program Aqualink when the Internet is down, however. Having a backup physical interface like the PDA will allow you to turn things on and off. You can also turn things on and off from the actual Aqualink panel. You will still not be able to program an RS system without an active Internet connection, regardless if you have the PDA or not. ONLY the PDA based system can program without the Internet.

When the Internet is down (RS system) all of your programming (including scheduling) will still be in effect you will just not be able to change the programming until the Internet is back.
 
Thank you. Originally my PB offered PDA PS6 + iAqualink. I told him I wanted the Aqualink 2.0 with the IQ20-RS and I did not need a PDA. With tablet, phone and Alexa controls, I agree I should not need the PDA.

My contract is now updated to switch the PS6 for the RS6. I think this is right, but I cannot confirm exactly what the RS6 is. My internet searches sometimes show the control panel. Sometimes it shows the One Touch or All Button. Can you clarify what the RS6 is?
 
The part you want is "RS-PS6". That means an RS system (web primary interface) with a shared "Pool and Spa Combo". The PS6 has 6 "aux" relays (functions). What all do you have to control? Extra AUX ports (like a PS8) would allow landscape lighting control, sprinkler control, etc. Then to that, you can add various control interfaces. The RS usually comes bundled with the IQ20-RS but just in case you want to specify that you want full Internet access. IQ20-RS automatically includes the phone app and web browser control. You may want to add a wall panel to that like the OneTouch or AllButton, but neither are needed and you probably won't use them. Keep in mind your builder will probably charge you $800 plus for a wall pad like a OneTouch. I got very lucky and scored one on eBay for $100 but that was VERY lucky the person didn't know what they had and mis-listed it. Deals are out there though!

Jandy also has a board called a "SmartJVA" which allows you incremental control of your valves in 5% increments. This means you can balance your water features or adjust flow on the fly which is nice. Be advised most builders have never heard of this and will look like a deer in the headlights if you try to explain it. Jandy is the only tier one automation provider that has this functionality.

In addition, there is an Alexa skill for the Aqualink RS system. Oh and also with an RS system Jandy tech support can take full control of your system and fix or program things if you call them.

Since you and your builder have already discussed a PDA based system, it is imperative that you make sure you are not getting a PDA based system where he just keeps the PDA and gives the the IQ20-a "upgrade". I have seen this happen before and you will not be a happy camper if he does this to you. You do not want any system that starts out as a PDA system. You can verify this by looking at the daughter board and see what is written on it. See my old PDA board below. If your board says "PDA" then you have a problem.

This link will tell you what you need. https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/sa/sa6465.pdf?force=1

1622635409535.png
 
Thank you so much. This post was priceless. Even my PB thanked me for the Jandy Automation 1 pager. This allowed me and my PB to speak the same language and for me to ensure that I will receive the right system. Just perfect. Thank you once again!
 
Well guess what. Electrician shows up today and installs the PDA PSA 6. It also came with iAqualink 3.0, but I cannot tell now if it is the RS version with the board. Is there any way for me to tell now that is has been installed?

I can tell them to switch it out, if needed since it was just installed today.
 
Also, does it matter that I have software revision 7.1? The IQ30-RS says convert from AquaLink Rev 6 and Prior. Anychance something has changed?
 

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If it is an RS system, your PDA is used just for turning on/off devices now. If you still have to use the PDA for programming then the builder did exactly what I warned about and gave you the IQ30a package which is a total waste of money it does nothing useful at all. Look at your version under the "help" button and see what it says.

1635848865718.png
 
PoolGate said:
If it is an RS system, your PDA is used just for turning on/off devices now. If you still have to use the PDA for programming then the builder did exactly what I warned about and gave you the IQ30a package which is a total waste of money it does nothing useful at all. Look at your version under the "help" button and see what it says.

View attachment 380498
Click to expand...
The wiring is not complete because we are waiting for the heater. Is there anyway I can tell if it’s an IQ30A or an IQRS without power?
 
Or if you can find the box it came in.

AM-JKLVGVBb04UR-mhetid3uCTQL3LOplKfxXjmyOCwUaUbuodBtR6iEoWRxzjCKWEG9hbX5_JPx0xlleqcEQjbQaHbLHIOTP-B958ntTnCfVT-W36vKe55Gzzn8dl4EoltnQK_eKpTfYiOJk7PwQhA7V-Pa=w533-h947-no
 
Never doubt the wisdom of Poolgate. I looked behind the board. PDA just like you said. It's going back. So much going on I forgot about this conversation when the Electrician came. Thanks again for the advice.
 
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And just to summarize:

IQ20-a - WiFi Antenna only - gives you on/off ability with your phone. No Alexa. Programming still is done with the PDA. Largely useless "upgrade".
IQ20-RS - WiFi Antenna plus PCB board - Changes your system from PDA to RS. Programming done with phone or computer. Alex capability. PDA reverts to on/off device only.
 
Yep got it.

So if the PB comes by with a IQ30RS and replaces the PCB Board... should I be happy with that? Or should I ask them to change the whole thing to an RS system?
 
thegizzard said:
Yep got it.

So if the PB comes by with a IQ30RS and replaces the PCB Board... should I be happy with that? Or should I ask them to change the whole thing to an RS system?
Click to expand...

All you need is the PCB board for RS like I listed above (except that one is a PDA board). Don't be surprised if he tries to charge you. The board by itself is like $750.
 

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