I have a 12000 gal in ground pool with a spa. I converted to SWG with Aqua Rite controller remotely controlled by a Hayward On Command automation system about 9 years ago. I have replace the T-3 cell 3 times. I've also replace the main PCB and the display PCB previously. I have had no problems for about 2 years since the last cell and PCB replacements. Recently, the system stopped generating and the no flow LED was on...I found the flow switch lead was broken so I splice the lead and the no flow led now goes out about 45 seconds after the pump starts. Now the Inspect Cell and Check Salt LED's are on.
I installed a new cell but both the Inspect Cell and Check Salt LED's remain on and average salt reading is 2000. I have the following as I push the button....Avg Salt 2000, Temp 84, Voltage 33.0, Current 0.0, Output 50P, Instant Salinity - 0, Product AL-0, Software Rev r1.59, Cell Type t-3. I have noticed that after turning off the pump and the power breaker then turning the breaker and pump on the no flow LED flashes for about 45 seconds then the Power, Generating and Remotely Controlled LEDs are on and cell voltage is about 29 and current 3.3. After about 30 seconds the generating LED goes off and the Inspect Cell and Check Salt LEDs go on. I have checked the salt level in the pool is at 4100 but I never get a High Salt LED. I'm in the process of adjusting it to about 3400.
Since current is flowing initially the circuit is not open but some component is opening the circuit. Any advice on what component could be causing this issue? I'll update this post after reducing the salt level.
Thanks,
Rick Harris
Update:
Inorder to lower the salt level I needed to dilute the pool with fresh water. Since I don't have a way to pump water out of the pool I decided to pump the spa down into the pool and let the pool overflow discharge the water from the pool. After I pumped the spa empty into the pool I discovered that the salt reading read 3300 and the chlorinator is now generating. Problem solved! I can only conclude that the the salt level in the spa was much lower than the pool so pumping it down diluted the pool salt level from 4100 to 3300. Also, the high salt level might have caused the generator to shut off after a few seconds as I described in my original post even though the High Salt LED never went on. I'll be replacing the flow switch as suggested by ajw22. BTW I saved the old cell and will try cleaning and reinstalling it as a test to see if the salt level was the problem all along. I hate spending $500 if I didn't need to...lesson learned.
Thanks,
Rick
I installed a new cell but both the Inspect Cell and Check Salt LED's remain on and average salt reading is 2000. I have the following as I push the button....Avg Salt 2000, Temp 84, Voltage 33.0, Current 0.0, Output 50P, Instant Salinity - 0, Product AL-0, Software Rev r1.59, Cell Type t-3. I have noticed that after turning off the pump and the power breaker then turning the breaker and pump on the no flow LED flashes for about 45 seconds then the Power, Generating and Remotely Controlled LEDs are on and cell voltage is about 29 and current 3.3. After about 30 seconds the generating LED goes off and the Inspect Cell and Check Salt LEDs go on. I have checked the salt level in the pool is at 4100 but I never get a High Salt LED. I'm in the process of adjusting it to about 3400.
Since current is flowing initially the circuit is not open but some component is opening the circuit. Any advice on what component could be causing this issue? I'll update this post after reducing the salt level.
Thanks,
Rick Harris
Update:
Inorder to lower the salt level I needed to dilute the pool with fresh water. Since I don't have a way to pump water out of the pool I decided to pump the spa down into the pool and let the pool overflow discharge the water from the pool. After I pumped the spa empty into the pool I discovered that the salt reading read 3300 and the chlorinator is now generating. Problem solved! I can only conclude that the the salt level in the spa was much lower than the pool so pumping it down diluted the pool salt level from 4100 to 3300. Also, the high salt level might have caused the generator to shut off after a few seconds as I described in my original post even though the High Salt LED never went on. I'll be replacing the flow switch as suggested by ajw22. BTW I saved the old cell and will try cleaning and reinstalling it as a test to see if the salt level was the problem all along. I hate spending $500 if I didn't need to...lesson learned.
Thanks,
Rick
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