Aqua Rite: Salt reads 0?

[Dagobah]

Problem:
-Salt reads 0
-Check salt light on solid
-Inspect cell light on solid
-Pool is turning green
-Cell is 2 years old

What I've done so far:
-Water was tested and salt is at 3200ppm
-Cell was tested and passed. No visible buildup on the fins
-Tried recalibrating the salt level and it doesn't move from 0

What could be the issue?

 

[jblizzle]

Did you set it to 100% output?
Can you post all the Diagnostic readings?

 

[Dagobah]

Yes, I've got it at 100% output. Here's the diagnostics:

0 Salt
92 degrees
30.8 voltage
0 amperage
100p output
-0 instant salt level
AL-0 Program code
r 1.4 revision
Cell size not shown (just goes back to salt)

 

[JamesW]

Move the switch to off, check all diagnostic readings. Move the switch to auto and recheck the readings. Move the switch to off again for a minute. Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

 

[Dagobah]

When I turn the unit off, the voltage goes to 31.1. When I turn it on and after going through the startup cycle, it's back to 30.8. All other settings are the same.

 

[JamesW]

What are the readings right when you move the switch to auto?

Do the amps and instant salinity go above zero for a minute or so before shutting off?

 

[Dagobah]

Nothing changes except the voltage, and that just slowly drops from 31.1 to 30.8. Everything else is the same. Instant salinity is still -0, amperage is still 0. The system does switch to "generating" for a 20-30 seconds, but the numbers don't change.

 

[JamesW]

Looks like a bad cell. But, it might be a bad board. I would remove the board and check it carefully for any visible damage.

 

[Dagobah]

I replaced the limiter on the board a few years ago. There’s been visible blackening on the board in that area since.

With the cell testing as working and being under warranty, any idea how that warranty claim would work?

 

[JamesW]

I would check the board for any visible damage and replace the limiter just to be sure.

Unless the cell fails the test by an authorized Hayward service center, you probably won't be able to get a warranty replacement.

Maybe find a different authorized Hayward service center that can test the cell.

 

[Dagobah]

The aqua rite board is at least 11 years old if not more.

Also, how often do cells go bad but test as working?

 

[chlorinatorpro]

In my experience with that same issue my customers have always wound up finding that the board is bad.

 

[JamesW]

It might be a bad board. Check for visible damage and touch up any damage. Replace the thermistor.

Cell testing is not super reliable depending on who's testing.

I would get another test by a different authorized Hayward service center.

Make sure that they test on both polarities and verify that the test is done correctly.

 

[Dagobah]

I'll call the two Hayward authorized shops in town tomorrow. Assuming it is the board, it looks like they sell replacement boards and replacement displays. Am I better off buying both or just the board?

Board: Amazon.com : Hayward GLX-PCB-RITE Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Hayward Goldline AquaRite Salt Chlorination Systems : Lawn And Garden Tool Replacement Parts : Garden & Outdoor
Display: Amazon.com: Hayward GLX-PCB-DSP Aqua-Rite PCB Display: Garden & Outdoor

 

[JamesW]

If you unplug the cell you can check to see if voltage is making it to the plug.

The top two holes should read the same voltage as the voltage on the screen.

Since the average salinity is low, the voltage will only be present for a short time before it shuts off with an error.

If voltage isn't getting to the plug, the problem is with the board. If voltage is getting to the plug, the problem is with the cell.

 

[Dagobah]

After removing the PCB, the issue was obvious. There's a new scorch mark in the middle of the board. I ordered a replacement board, installed and things are back to normal. Thanks for the help!

 

[Dagobah]

First pic shows the scorch (middle of the board). The black mark in the corner is from when the limited went out. Second pic is the (Omron) module on the front that corresponds to the mark. Either way, a new PCB fixed things.

 

[JamesW]

Ok, if you touch up the solder at the bad spot, it would probably work again.

In any case, I'm glad that you got it working again.

 

[jblizzle]

Same model relay I had issues with on my pro logic board.

 

[Sunpadre]

This happened to me yesterday - after a new Salt cell a couple months ago. I was able to get a new replacement salt cell under warranty. Installed today - same issue!! I had to replace the K1 module several years ago, so I dug into the board again. A few burned solder points at K1 & K2. I re-soldered them & all good again!! Whew! Should I replace the original 20 volt/amp fuse with a lower one to prevent this?