Update on what swamphubby teases is the "Dome of Doom"
So, the race against the leaves is on and I predict I'm gonna lose
The mfg is a bit behind schedule so the dome won't be shipping until next Thursday or Friday, ergo, no way to install it before Nov. 6.
I am still swimming (physio) at this point, and intend to keep trying, but I am also making a healthy tannin-tea on top of the cover where bits of warm water meet the leaves through the net. It ain't pretty, but the pool beneath is warm and clean...I'm using my handheld max blaster to do so each morning as part of my in-water routine.
Hubby has built a nice little plywood box with thermax 2-sided foiled foam lining inside to protect the little run of exposed PVC (see pic below). Covered it with a mat too because he's cute that way:
Our next challenge is deciding how to handle the air warmer (hot water exchanger) that fits over top the blower. The mfg wants us to put a t after the 1-1/2 heater return with a spigot and run a 3/4" garden hose, insulated. I'm supremely concerned that this will reduce my flow rate profoundly, enough to shut down the Aquarite for low flow. We might run it from an in-pool return instead, and shut down the furthest return to reduce head.
Hubby has come up with a brilliant possible solution but doesn't think we have time to do it for this season. Pool is very close to house and we have a boiler. There's a run of rad right beside the slider doors. Hubby wants to talk to our hvac guy and bust out a run of the rad with a bypass and connect same to the 2 inlets of the blower heater to close the loop...this way no water exchanges with the pool, water temp is way higher (believe boiler runs it at 180) etc. But he wants to think through possible contraindications and take some time working up a plan. Our boiler zone system is a wee bit complicated and we don't want to mess it up.
In other news, I am automating the switch the blower will be on so that I can remotely deflate it in the event of high wind or snow storm via iPhone. Am hoping the GFCI doesn't interfere with remote operation. And I'm working on the cheapest timer/remote automation of pump, light, heater, swg and pool light that I can come up with (likely the Intermatic pe653).
I'm abandoning DIY home automation kits for the moment after learning more about limitations yesterday talking to a mfg...no matter what I do, the 220/240 load controllers are "dumb" and can't be connected to a water temp sensor/probe. I also have 3 different electrical panels running (pool house, main home, and sep one on attached studio) which could mean many phases to network if using dual mesh...which just seems like too much room for error/failure and too much headache to figure out. So I'm going old school for the moment and hoping I just never lose the remote
Due to studio, we also have several WiFi networks so I'm hopeful the outlet remote doesn't constantly drop or detect wrong wifi, but we'll see. Its a possibility.
I'd welcome anyone who wants to weigh in on creative ways to possibly improve the blower warmer situation...let me know and I can post more details.
Here's a pic of the "heater" -- it sits over top f the blower. And a pic of the diagram of connection options.
So, the race against the leaves is on and I predict I'm gonna lose
The mfg is a bit behind schedule so the dome won't be shipping until next Thursday or Friday, ergo, no way to install it before Nov. 6.
I am still swimming (physio) at this point, and intend to keep trying, but I am also making a healthy tannin-tea on top of the cover where bits of warm water meet the leaves through the net. It ain't pretty, but the pool beneath is warm and clean...I'm using my handheld max blaster to do so each morning as part of my in-water routine.
Hubby has built a nice little plywood box with thermax 2-sided foiled foam lining inside to protect the little run of exposed PVC (see pic below). Covered it with a mat too because he's cute that way:
Our next challenge is deciding how to handle the air warmer (hot water exchanger) that fits over top the blower. The mfg wants us to put a t after the 1-1/2 heater return with a spigot and run a 3/4" garden hose, insulated. I'm supremely concerned that this will reduce my flow rate profoundly, enough to shut down the Aquarite for low flow. We might run it from an in-pool return instead, and shut down the furthest return to reduce head.
Hubby has come up with a brilliant possible solution but doesn't think we have time to do it for this season. Pool is very close to house and we have a boiler. There's a run of rad right beside the slider doors. Hubby wants to talk to our hvac guy and bust out a run of the rad with a bypass and connect same to the 2 inlets of the blower heater to close the loop...this way no water exchanges with the pool, water temp is way higher (believe boiler runs it at 180) etc. But he wants to think through possible contraindications and take some time working up a plan. Our boiler zone system is a wee bit complicated and we don't want to mess it up.
In other news, I am automating the switch the blower will be on so that I can remotely deflate it in the event of high wind or snow storm via iPhone. Am hoping the GFCI doesn't interfere with remote operation. And I'm working on the cheapest timer/remote automation of pump, light, heater, swg and pool light that I can come up with (likely the Intermatic pe653).
I'm abandoning DIY home automation kits for the moment after learning more about limitations yesterday talking to a mfg...no matter what I do, the 220/240 load controllers are "dumb" and can't be connected to a water temp sensor/probe. I also have 3 different electrical panels running (pool house, main home, and sep one on attached studio) which could mean many phases to network if using dual mesh...which just seems like too much room for error/failure and too much headache to figure out. So I'm going old school for the moment and hoping I just never lose the remote
Due to studio, we also have several WiFi networks so I'm hopeful the outlet remote doesn't constantly drop or detect wrong wifi, but we'll see. Its a possibility.
I'd welcome anyone who wants to weigh in on creative ways to possibly improve the blower warmer situation...let me know and I can post more details.
Here's a pic of the "heater" -- it sits over top f the blower. And a pic of the diagram of connection options.
