Any experience with Chlorworks as an Intellichlor replacement?

[Doodad]

Hello! I'm opening my pool for 2025 and I replaced my 2 year old Intellichlor IC40 because it appeared to have stopped working. Last summer (early in the season) I cleaned it with acid because it was flaking out, and it never recovered. I ran on liquid chlorine all summer because I couldn't afford to replace it and it died before the 2 year warranty expired. After talking to the installer, and not getting much help by way of corroboration of when I first notified him that it died, and not feeling optimistic about getting it replaced or repaired under warranty, I bought a 60K gallon rated Chlorworks model CWPC60. I figured that since I was saving money on the brand name I would get a higher capacity rated model so it wouldn't have to work as hard as the IC40 had.

The Chlorworks was a super easy one for one replacement. While I will be relying on water testing to know if it's working properly, I am concerned about it already. I've also emailed Chlorworks support and will work it through Amazon as well, but two things are happening. First, just like my IC40, my Intellitouch panel is reporting "comms error". The other thing is that the SWG itself, once it passes the water flow testing, goes to all green lights, including "Generating" (which is harder to see in my attached photo because of the angle). After a few minutes, it does to a single red light (Warning, inspect cell) and stays there. I'm not sure what would cause that considering it's brand new out of the box. It definitely looks to be well constructed and not cheap.

If you have experience with this model or have any ideas please let me know. Right now I am in SLAM mode using liquid chlorine, but would sure love to not have to do that all summer long again.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Doo,

You have com error because I doubt your 'fake' IC60 can communicate with the EasyTouch.. The EasyTouch will still turn the cell on and off, but you will have to set the output at the cell.

It could also be that you have a bad power center... The power center needs to supply the cell with about 35 Volts DC... If you have a voltmeter your can test between the large Red and Black wires going to the cell. Generally, this voltage is about 30 VDC when the cell is making chlorine and about 40 VDC when the cell is at rest.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Doodad]

Thanks, I will check that voltage! I think I did the same thing last year when troubleshooting the original IC40 and I even replaced a circuit board to no avail, so I have a spare board.

 

[Doodad]

42V. So I think the EZTouch is working normally. My brand new salt cell's guide says to clean or replace the salt cell. It's only got a few hours on it, so I'll keep working with the manufacturer.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Doo,

I'm guessing, but 42 volts would indicate to me that your new cell is not making chlorine..

It is on? Is it set to make chlorine? Do you have a good flow light? Salt is good? Output set to 100%??

Keep in mind that if the cell is set to 50% it will only make chlorine 50% of the time...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Doodad]

Oh, right, I got your 30v and 40v indications reversed in my head. I had already provided some of that detail, it's on, passes the flow test, goes to all happy green lights, including "generating" and then after a few minutes changes to the single red "inspect cell" light and stays there until the next power cycle. It's reporting my salt level at 2900 ppm and I will test to get an accuracy comparison this afternoon. I have the output set to 50% right now. My concern is that, even if it's not generating, it should still have green lights and not the red "inspect cell" light.

 

[Doodad]

In case anyone else runs across this thread - my new SWG is happily generating chlorine this morning. I had no idea that the process had a minimum water temperature but the idea occurred to me last night, so I turned the heater on. I had left it off at opening because it's at least 2-3 weeks too early for swimming and I'm a cheapskate. Google tells me the minimum temperature for chlorine generation is 60° and my water was sitting at around 54°. Now, my new SWG has a dedicated LED for "cold water" that wasn't lit, which is interesting. But when I checked this morning, the water temp is 70, and the Chlorworks is happily generating chlorine. Just something to keep in mind for anyone else who might run into the same issue.

 

[TinFoilHat]

So your new, cheaper SWG requires you to heat the pool at your expense for it to work? That does not compute.

 

[Doodad]

So your new, cheaper SWG requires you to heat the pool at your expense for it to work? That does not compute.I mean

So your new, cheaper SWG requires you to heat the pool at your expense for it to work? That does not compute.

Chemical reactions have temperature requirements, typically. It's just physics. The Intellichlor also has a minimum temperature requirement, if you look it up. Now that I know, it makes sense to me. And I have no brand loyalty because as far as I can tell Pentair stuff is just overpriced junk. My IC40 lasted less than 24 months.

 

[TinFoilHat]

I am aware of the temperature limits, I just find it interesting that you have to spend money to make it work at 60 degrees. Most cells work at that temperature. Just funnin' with ya. Glad you figured it out.

 

[Doodad]

I am aware of the temperature limits, I just find it interesting that you have to spend money to make it work at 60 degrees. Most cells work at that temperature. Just funnin' with ya. Glad you figured it out.

I get ya, thanks. I didn't try it at 60. I wanted to prove or disprove my theory definitively, so I raised the temperature from 54 to 70. I could try lowering it to find the threshold, but I really just want to move on to the next step and get the pool swimmable and ready for Memorial Day weekend.

 

[Newdude]

Pretty much any thermometer / sensor we'll ever see is cheap junk and they're all off to some degree. (intended pun) Most cells stop producing around 50 and maybe your sensor is just a little more off than the rest of them.

Anywho, glad you got it figured out.

 

[Doodad]

Pretty much any thermometer / sensor we'll ever see is cheap junk and they're all off to some degree. (intended pun) Most cells stop producing around 50 and maybe your sensor is just a little more off than the rest of them.

Anywho, glad you got it figured out.

Good point! Thanks.