Any advice?

[elominac]

We have passed the 30 day point and have started the SWG and heater. Man... The SWG pumps out some chlorine!! And the heater makes the swim heavenly Chemicals with TFP kit are Free Chlor 3 Total Chlor 3, pH 8.2, Alka 80, CYA 40, Salt 3200. I must say that I like the Pentair kit (that the builder gave us) better for the Chlor and pH measurments. Pentair results were Chlor 3 and pH 7.8 with it lowering to 7.6 with 1 drop of reagent and 7.2 with 2 drops. The Pentair kit is easier for me to read and I like how it tells me how much Muriatic Acid I need. It seems like keeping the pH down is a battle. Is it OK to add more than 24oz at a time? And should we wait to swim after adding it? Thanks for any input!

 

[TampaKathy]

Do you have the Pool Math app? That tells you what to add too. My pool is new since Nov so I am still battling PH rise...pool math often tells me to put in like 82 oz of MA. I put it in hours before I plan to swim but I don't think waiting that long is necessary.

 

[Texas Splash]

Congrats on the pool opening. Sure, the pH needs to be about 7 .8, but don't feel like you have to add so much acid you'll drag it down to 7.2. If you add a lot of acid at one time, it's not bad, but it will have more impact on your TA. You're okay as long as the TA doesn't fall below 50. As Kathy noted, use the PoolMath APP to monitor ideal levels to include the "CSI". You want a CSI of about zero to - 0.3 to prevent scale to the SWG cells and plaster. CSI is effected by 4 things: water temp, CH, TA, and pH - pH having to most radical effect. In general though, if you keep all the parameters within the TFP ideal ranges, you'll be fine. If you find the FC struggling soon, it may be because your CYA is a bit low for a salt pool. Summer you definitely want a CYA of about 70. If you have any other questions let us know.

 

[elominac]

Thank you Kathy. I do have the app but haven't tried it yet. I'll give it a go.

Congrats on the pool opening. Sure, the pH needs to be about 7 .8, but don't feel like you have to add so much acid you'll drag it down to 7.2. If you add a lot of acid at one time, it's not bad, but it will have more impact on your TA. You're okay as long as the TA doesn't fall below 50. As Kathy noted, use the PoolMath APP to monitor ideal levels to include the "CSI". You want a CSI of about zero to - 0.3 to prevent scale to the SWG cells and plaster. CSI is effected by 4 things: water temp, CH, TA, and pH - pH having to most radical effect. In general though, if you keep all the parameters within the TFP ideal ranges, you'll be fine. If you find the FC struggling soon, it may be because your CYA is a bit low for a salt pool. Summer you definitely want a CYA of about 70. If you have any other questions let us know.

Thank you Splash! Our water temp is 85-90ish with the heater on. In Pool Math app I entered chemistry values and using it's suggestions I added 24oz Muriatic Acid and 2 - 1lb socks of CYA (it called for 4lbs but I want to go slow to reduce the risk of too much). TFP says to retest the CYA 24 to 48 hrs after adding it, so that's my plan. Thanks again for your help!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Does the Pentair test kit use the DPD powder and reagent 0871 to test your FC and does it test CCs?

 

[elominac]

Does the Pentair test kit use the DPD powder and reagent 0871 to test your FC and does it test CCs?

No. It's just a basic 5 drops in the color graduated vial, eyeball and match the colors but you then add single drops of a reagent and note the change in color on the vial. A chart tells you how much Muriatic Acid to add depending on # of drops and volume of pool.

 

[elominac]

No. It's just a basic 5 drops in the color graduated vial, eyeball and match the colors but you then add single drops of a reagent and note the change in color on the vial. A chart tells you how much Muriatic Acid to add depending on # of drops and volume of pool.

Very basic. does not measure CC. I definitely need the TFP to measure all other chemicals, but I do like it for a quick chlor/pH check.