Hi All
Pentair Warrior SE owner … like many, there have been issues. This is my story.
Initial purchase from Marina in Colorado. Great delivery. LED on unit blinked, but never moved one inch. Replaced through Marina. Worked fine.
18 months later completely stopped working. Took to local repair shop and they replaced the power supply under warranty.
12 month later completely stopped working. Took to local repair shop and they replaced the internal motors/PCB for $300 without a warranty. Would have been $600 with warranty. I kept the motor assembly.
10 months later ( a month ago) stopped working except for a portion of the built in test - would light the LED, and move forward a couple of inches. Hoped the impeller had picked up enough debris - but it was completely clean. Pulled the sealed motor assembly, removed motors, the PCB, etc. Pulled, put dielectric grease on the cable fittings, cleaned, lubed with the oring with same grease, and reinstalled.
(Note - To those that have an issue, most are the impeller burning up, brushes wearing out, one of the 2 or 3 bearings. While Maytronics has a lock on the motor parts, and some other components, most local electric motor shops should have the bearings and the brushes - I would certainly give that a shot before continuing to support Maytronic.) Edit by Jim R.
With power applied, on the bench, the blue LED lit, then flashed 3/4 times, then drive motor cycled, and impeller motor cycled. The tiny green LED on the PCB flashed about once/second, then following the forward and backward drive motor movement, there as a final impeller run and it shut down, and the green LED on the PCB flashed rapidly. I could get it to repeat this.
So, swapped parts back and forth - both drive and impeller motors seemed fine on both units (btw, on both units the motor assembly was absolutely dry inside, no corrosion, no burn spots, connectors or components on the PCB). Pulled the PCB and resoldered the components I could get to (new type board). Reassembled with likely a Frankenstein configuration - same test process on the bench with same result. Pulled it all apart and looked at it. Called it a day.
Woke up asking myself how the PCB could determine whether the impeller motor was burned up - I am assuming by increased load with increased power draw? If this was the case, if the impeller motor was not under any water load, would it also terminate the test? So, reassembled and tossed it in the pool. Works fine.
Something I did, plus the water drag ton the impeller?
Pentair Warrior SE owner … like many, there have been issues. This is my story.
Initial purchase from Marina in Colorado. Great delivery. LED on unit blinked, but never moved one inch. Replaced through Marina. Worked fine.
18 months later completely stopped working. Took to local repair shop and they replaced the power supply under warranty.
12 month later completely stopped working. Took to local repair shop and they replaced the internal motors/PCB for $300 without a warranty. Would have been $600 with warranty. I kept the motor assembly.
10 months later ( a month ago) stopped working except for a portion of the built in test - would light the LED, and move forward a couple of inches. Hoped the impeller had picked up enough debris - but it was completely clean. Pulled the sealed motor assembly, removed motors, the PCB, etc. Pulled, put dielectric grease on the cable fittings, cleaned, lubed with the oring with same grease, and reinstalled.
(Note - To those that have an issue, most are the impeller burning up, brushes wearing out, one of the 2 or 3 bearings. While Maytronics has a lock on the motor parts, and some other components, most local electric motor shops should have the bearings and the brushes - I would certainly give that a shot before continuing to support Maytronic.) Edit by Jim R.
With power applied, on the bench, the blue LED lit, then flashed 3/4 times, then drive motor cycled, and impeller motor cycled. The tiny green LED on the PCB flashed about once/second, then following the forward and backward drive motor movement, there as a final impeller run and it shut down, and the green LED on the PCB flashed rapidly. I could get it to repeat this.
So, swapped parts back and forth - both drive and impeller motors seemed fine on both units (btw, on both units the motor assembly was absolutely dry inside, no corrosion, no burn spots, connectors or components on the PCB). Pulled the PCB and resoldered the components I could get to (new type board). Reassembled with likely a Frankenstein configuration - same test process on the bench with same result. Pulled it all apart and looked at it. Called it a day.
Woke up asking myself how the PCB could determine whether the impeller motor was burned up - I am assuming by increased load with increased power draw? If this was the case, if the impeller motor was not under any water load, would it also terminate the test? So, reassembled and tossed it in the pool. Works fine.
Something I did, plus the water drag ton the impeller?
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