Another IC40 with no lights

timm747

Active member
Apr 8, 2020
25
Saint Augustine, FL
Hi everyone, I'm new here. We bought a house last year with a pool and the IC40 never worked correctly. The owner told me she just used a floater with a tab in so that's what I've done. I tried to get the levels right but it always over chlorinated. Even when I had the IC40 at the lowest setting it over chlorinated. The owner had the same experience which is why she used the floater.

But about a month or two ago the lights on the IC40 went out. I checked the fuse and it looks good. The board has a green light. When I flip the pool pump switch the IC40 lights blip quickly and then I don't get any lights at all. Here are some pictures. I ordered a new IC40 last night and it will be here Saturday but since the fuse is not out I'm thinking maybe the transformer. The wiring on the left is where the pool pump power comes in. There is a breaker in there but it isn't flipped. I did turn it off and on to make sure but still no luck. I appreciate your help! -Tim

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Welcome to TFP.

If the power LED is on then the transformer should be good.

Your transformer looks a bit overheated and is different then the current IntelliChlor Power Center. I would start fresh and replace it.

 
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Tim,

While a bad transformer could be the problem, I have never seen a bad power transformer that was not installed wrong, in the 50 years I have been doing this stuff... :mrgreen:

The power supply takes the AC voltage and converts it into about 40 volts DC.. You can use a voltmeter and test the output going to the cell.

The idea that your IC40 produces too much chlorine, even when set on the lowest setting, just means that you are running the cell for way too long. How long do you normally run your pump and cell?

I also suspect that your "too high" is not what we call "too high".. I suggest that you take a look at our pool school and see how we run our pools.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thank you for the replies! I just tested the output voltage by unscrewing the IC40 connector and the output read 29 volts. I run the pump for 8 hours in the Summer (an hour for every 10 degrees of pool heat is what I was told and last Summer the pool maintained 82 degrees). When I say "too high" when I would take water samples into Pinch a Penny they would always tell me the Chlorine was way too high and once I bought a neutralizer to put in so we could swim later that day.
 
Thanks, we do have the test kit and do our own testing too (but to be honest, only Chlorine and PH). Chlorine always read high with the kit as well. :(

Tim

That testing is not adequate. You need to know your CYA level. Low or high chlorine is only relative to your CYA level. That is fundamental to correct water chemistry.

We use the FC/CYA Levels to determine correct chlorine ranges.
 
Ok, based on your replies I have on order a new IC40, fuses for the future, a new fuse housing and the transformer. Since the output was only 29 volts to the IC40 could that transformer be on its way out? Just curious at this point even though I'm replacing it.

Thanks!
Tim
 

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Tim,

I have never tested the output with the cell removed, so I'm not sure what that voltage should be.. With the cell connected it will read about 40 volts when the cell is at rest and about 35 volts when the cell is making chlorine. (cell light on)

I would suspect that the power supply card, where the DC voltage is made, is bad before the transformer, but there is no way to know for sure..

Not sure what the transformer costs by itself, but I would think that it would be almost as much as a whole new power center... :scratch:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Tim,

The IC40 is sealed.. You will need to test the voltage inside the power supply.

I have an internal power supply inside my EasyTouch, so easy to get to.. I have never looked inside the external power supply, but suspect it is somewhat similar..

Here is a pic of my power supply board.. You test between the heavy Black and Red wires that go to the cell. Top left in my pic.. Again.. yours will not be the same, but my pic should give you the basic idea of where to test..



Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Tim,

I do not know exactly what your board looks like, so you will have to collate to my board..

On mine, you can see the two red wires in the middle of the board (one has a black stripe) where the AC voltage comes in from the transformer.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I replaced the transformer and have no power going out of it now. All wires are connected based on how the old one was wired. One thing is the new transformer has a green and yellow wire and the old one had a green only. I 'm assuming this is still ground but can someone confirm? The old one was grounde to a screw that holds the box on the wall which is the way I connected the new one but no power out... Thanks!
 
I replaced the transformer and have no power going out of it now. All wires are connected based on how the old one was wired. One thing is the new transformer has a green and yellow wire and the old one had a green only. I 'm assuming this is still ground but can someone confirm? The old one was grounde to a screw that holds the box on the wall which is the way I connected the new one but no power out... Thanks!

I am looking at the pic in your first post.

Your old transformer has blue, yellow, and black wires on the high voltage side and two red wires on the low voltage side.

Green wires and green/yellow are always grounds. You can see both in the pic.

Post pics of your old and new transformer.
 
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