Another Green Pool

DougMTX

Silver Supporter
Mar 27, 2024
11
North East Texas
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I've gotten so much help from you guys already by just reading but it's time to ask for help.

First off:
Test Kit: K-2006C

This morning:
FC: 4.5
CC: 0
PH: 7.2
TA: 90
CYA: 40
CH: 30
ONCL: ~0 (going to retest tonight using 0.2 ppm resolution)

We bought the house about 18mo ago and this is my first pool. Things seemed to go swimmingly for the first year, tossing pucks in the skimmer basket as the previous owner instructed. Occasionally I'd throw in some bags of powdered shock. Just using test strips from amazon. Worked great until it didn't.

Early December the pool started getting green. Nothing I new to do was working to address it. In Texas and did not try to close it for the winter.

Found TFP about this time and started trying to learn. Bought the Taylor kit. Found my CYA was around 160.

After a false start or two and draining quite a bit of water, made it through a SLAM based on chlorine numbers. Pool was not green but somewhat cloudy. Could definitely see the bottom in the deep end.

At this point TA was high at 170 and PH > 8. Also there was quite a bit of tan colored 'stuff' on the bottom that would cloud up very easily when disturbed.

Spent a couple of weeks cycling the PH from 7.8 down to 7 with acid and eventually got the TA down to 90. I have aerator jets by the steps.

This brings me to about three weeks ago and I start brushing the bottom again. The 'stuff' immediately clouds the pool and turns it green again. But, it doesn't have the same look as the mess I had before slamming. It was mostly clear one minute then green (maybe yellow/green would be a better description) the next.

OK, so maybe the filter will get this out. I've been running the pump 24 hrs a day since I've had the pool.

Well, a few days later the motor stops. Not the capacitor this time, the windings measured open. Ordered a new motor from Inyo (they are great BTW). While waiting for the motor I decided I'd go ahead and replace the sand since I didn't know it's age so picked up sand from the pool store.

Got it all back together this past Sunday and started it back up. Pressure was at 20 and has slowly gone up to 26 as of this morning. But, the water is still just as green.

So this is where I'm at. It might be pollen? I do have two large oak trees by the pool.

I'm thinking my next step will be to backflush this afternoon and try adding DE to the filter.

Any comments, thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
Hey Doug and Welcome !!!!


First off:
Test Kit: K-2006C
First off.......:salut:. If you use what we use (Taylor based drops), it's like the TFP army is standing beside you. We know what to do with those #s.
Ordered a new motor from Inyo (they are great BTW)
They ARE. I dealt with them a few times personally and also helping members here and each time, it validated the oodles of similar reports I'd read here from members. I got off the phone/email thinking 'wow'.
So this is where I'm at. It might be pollen? I do have two large oak trees by the pool.
With decreasing #s of oaks each year from 160 down to 80, I went pollen soup each year. It just needed time and patience. The OCLT will be your guide. Pass another one to be sure for this week. Repeat weekly as needed. I don't see any value using .2 resolution. A 0 is a 0 and with a one drop variance, a .5 is effectively 0 also for TFP.

Also, add a couple ppm FC over target for insurance while this plays out. If youre losing 2ppm a day, and high target is 8, dose to 10 and fall back into target, remaining freeeeeeee and clear above minimum.

I'm thinking my next step will be to backflush this afternoon and try adding DE to the filter.
Definitely clean the filter as the PSI increases and DE will help speed the sand along. Basically, a dirty filter catches more crud because the crud in it filters finer crud. DE jump starts you to being 3/4 dirty. Pay attention to the PSI until you know how fast it rises. It may be minutes or hours, and clean/repeat as necessary.
 
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I don't know about hairnets (just started using them) but the skimmer socks would do a good job of filtering out the pollen. As the sock gets dirtier, it catches more crud just like a filter does. I would put socks on the skimmer baskets during the spring during pollen season. I would need to keep an eye on them so they didn't restrict water flow too much. The key to pollen removal is to keep the water stirred up. Either brush the bottom or let the robot roam around if you have one. I like the socks because it reduces the amount of backflushing I need to do.
 
The green part is what worries me - got any pics?
You’re hanging out real close to minimum FC. FC/CYA Levels
You want to do the
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test whilst in target 🎯 range for your cya so dose to 7ppm then do the oclt.
You want to backwash when pressure rises 25% over clean pressure. So if clean is 20psi then its backwash time at 25psi.
Adding DE will mean this happens more quickly so be sure you’ll be around to check it.
Here’s the guide for that incase you need a refresher
 
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Thanks for taking the time to help Newdude. I appreciate it.

Added enough chlorine to bring it up to 9ppm, that's 2 above. Will test again this evening.

Rinsed and added DE. Only took about a 1/3 of a cup in solution to bring pressure up from 20 to 21 psi.

30 or so minutes later pressure is up to 26. Will rinse and repeat.

It feels good to not be stumbling around in the dark anymore!

Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep the FC higher at least until resolved. PoolMath gives me a range of 3-7 ppm with my current CYA. I'll try keeping it to a min of 7.

I'll investigate getting some skimmer socks too.

Thank You
 
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Don't forget the OCLT so 2 say it's only pollen. Last time may have been a fluke.
 
It feels good to not be stumbling around in the dark anymore!
I stumbled in the dark for 8.5 years. Because why wouldn't I trust the nice pool store people ? I knew in my soul that they spewed word salad everytime I asked them a smart question, but my options to fact check them were limited at the time. I was on several other incredibly helpful forums and it's on me that the thought never crossed my mind to seek out TFP.

Most of the others were there too, and we never forgot how bad it sucked. We exist solely so that it sucks less for others behind us. We got you. :)
 
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After a false start or two and draining quite a bit of water, made it through a SLAM based on chlorine numbers. Pool was not green but somewhat cloudy. Could definitely see the bottom in the deep end.
Did you ever actually finish the SLAM? A cloudy pool does not indicate a finished SLAM.

I would SLAM again and make sure you meet all 3 exit criteria.
 
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Last season...I helped friend with a similar issue as what it sounds like you have...he used ONLY stabilized 3-inch CL tabs for 5 years thanks to the "good people at the pool store". He came by my house, Saw my super clear pool and was like: "Dude Help!!! My pool is always green". He had his water tested the day before at the pool store and he paid $40 for algecide....I predicted his high CYA before he brought the water sample, I tested it, and confirmed CYA = 160...he was stunned that I predicted it...I turned him on to TFP.com. He drained his pool by 50% and cheerfully refilled it. That's TRUST :) He bought the TF-100. I showed him how to SLAM and all worked out well....he is now on his way to pool independence. Sounds like the same story as yours...different day. I will say that yesterday I went to my Pool Store for what will be the last time. I wanted to get a second opinion/reading of my CYA before starting SLAM, which I am on Day 2 right now. They wanted $10 for the water test. What ??? Or buy something and it's free. So I bought a gallon of MA...and the results of the water test were only sentences telling me to buy 3 pounds of this Pool Care Product, and two pounds of that ($80). I asked for all the FC, pH, CYA, CH etc...numbers instead of the computer-generated recommendations on what to buy...they said "NO". Buy the stuff we recommend or you are on your own. No numbers. Bye Bye Pool Store. Oh, the Muriatic was $15.70 a gallon too. That's a bit too high I think.
 
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I wanted to get a second opinion/reading of my CYA
If the need ever arises again, take a swig of pool water, swish it around like a fine wine tasting, and blurt out the first # that comes to mind. It's 50/50 who'll be closer, as CYA is arguably their worst test.

The only thing It's good for is making you doubt yourself further.
 
I've rinsed the DE out as I don't think I can leave it overnight.
SMART. Why wake up to a burnt out pump?
3 DE/Rinse cycles has seemed to improve clarity
Towards the end of a filter battle, be it dead algae or pollen, you need to crack a beverage and use POP. (Pool owner patience). The more you already filtered out, the harder it is to get the rest as it's mixing.
 
FC last night: 6.0
FC this morning: 6.0
CC this morning: 0

I'll bring FC back up 9, another sunny TX day in store and continue the DE/rinse cycle.

Newdude, it's totally unreasonable to have to wait until the end of the battle to crack a beverage (or two) :cheers:
 
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Newdude, it's totally unreasonable to have to wait until the end of the battle to crack a beverage (or two) :cheers:
Oh no. Crack away my friend. :)
FC last night: 6.0
FC this morning: 6.0
Ok so you have two legit 0s for overnight loss. Thats not just passing, but passing with flying colors. It's likely just a filtering issue. Like I said, mine would take a week or two to clear every spring. Keep the FC up just because, and have a beverage. Repeat if necessary. *hiccup* AND another thing !!! *wobbles and points* The Oscar nonsense. AMIRITE ????? *huccup*.
 
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A question about using DE...

Freshly backwashed and rinsed my pressure is about 20.5 psi (Hayward S244T)

Adding just a 1/4 to a 1/3 cup of DE is bringing it up by ~1 psi.

Right now (doing a lot of brushing and running polaris) pressure goes to 28ish in 15 or 20 minutes.

I've rinsed the filter 4 times already (iow LOTS of water).

Question: I noticed a bit ago that if I cycle the pump off for a minute or so, when I turn it back on the pressure will drop to ~23 from 28 and then resume it gradual climb back to 28. I've done this now a couple of times. Is this folly and I'm not doing myself any good or can can I reduce the the amount of water wasted and backwash a little less frequently.

Hope I explained well enough! Thanks!
 
Right now (doing a lot of brushing and running polaris) pressure goes to 28ish in 15 or 20 minutes
So the filter is working great at doing its thing with the DE added.
Is this folly and I'm not doing myself any good or can can I reduce the the amount of water wasted and backwash a little less frequently.
It sounds like it's settling the DE and making it less helpful, taking longer to need cleaning again. While it's buying you more time, it's also delaying getting the crud out. Add DE when you can babysit it and skip the DE if you're pulled away from life or sleep.
 
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