Hi all,
Just finished first fill on newly installed AG pool. Install date was 5/16 and finally full enough to start pump on 5/26. Filled from sandpoint well, and everything looked great until the last couple days of filling, then the water turned greenish/brown, and I want to make sure I'm headed in the right direction to resolve.
Upon first startup of pump, I added PH down prior to any other chemicals to get my PH levels to 7.5-7.6. I then installed the mineral cartridge and V-pack (dichlor I believe) and shocked the pool overnight with sodium hypochlorite. Instructions for the mineral cartridge say to balance PH and then install prior to shock levels of chlorine, and I installed the V-pack at the same time in order to start building some CYA.
Currently FC is at 4, down from 5 this morning when I started manually adding CYA prior to sunrise.
My PH remains at 7.5 but TA is between 150-180, I say between because the color matches the 180 but is not super concentrated on the color tile of the test strip.
My water does not have a strong chlorine smell, and I can see the liner on bottom (54" depth), but still have a greenish-brown tint to the water, with some light slime coating on the skimmer parts. I have the flapper disc vacuum running but not sure that it's moved on it's own in the last 5 hours, so I don't anticipate that the vacuum is going to be a great help but wanted to try to get leaves and debris off the bottom that built up during filling.
Since there is a descent amount of FC in the water, and I'm still injecting chlorine, my current thought is that I need to get TA down to ~75 or so and maintain that. If I still have the stained water then I will do a SLAM.
It seems to me that I have a long road of using muriatic acid to lower PH/TA, and then raising PH back up to do it again. From what I understand, if I use 120 oz. of muriatic acid to lower PH to 7.0, TA will only be 22 ppm lower than it is now. What are my alternative options, how else can I cut my TA in half without drastically affecting PH or other chemicals?
I have several different kinds of test strips, but that is the limit of my current testing capabilities. Also, I currently only have the starter pack of chemicals that came with the pool. I will be going to town tomorrow to buy more, and hopeful that there are some suggestions here as to best approach to getting clear water.
Just finished first fill on newly installed AG pool. Install date was 5/16 and finally full enough to start pump on 5/26. Filled from sandpoint well, and everything looked great until the last couple days of filling, then the water turned greenish/brown, and I want to make sure I'm headed in the right direction to resolve.
Upon first startup of pump, I added PH down prior to any other chemicals to get my PH levels to 7.5-7.6. I then installed the mineral cartridge and V-pack (dichlor I believe) and shocked the pool overnight with sodium hypochlorite. Instructions for the mineral cartridge say to balance PH and then install prior to shock levels of chlorine, and I installed the V-pack at the same time in order to start building some CYA.
Currently FC is at 4, down from 5 this morning when I started manually adding CYA prior to sunrise.
My PH remains at 7.5 but TA is between 150-180, I say between because the color matches the 180 but is not super concentrated on the color tile of the test strip.
My water does not have a strong chlorine smell, and I can see the liner on bottom (54" depth), but still have a greenish-brown tint to the water, with some light slime coating on the skimmer parts. I have the flapper disc vacuum running but not sure that it's moved on it's own in the last 5 hours, so I don't anticipate that the vacuum is going to be a great help but wanted to try to get leaves and debris off the bottom that built up during filling.
Since there is a descent amount of FC in the water, and I'm still injecting chlorine, my current thought is that I need to get TA down to ~75 or so and maintain that. If I still have the stained water then I will do a SLAM.
It seems to me that I have a long road of using muriatic acid to lower PH/TA, and then raising PH back up to do it again. From what I understand, if I use 120 oz. of muriatic acid to lower PH to 7.0, TA will only be 22 ppm lower than it is now. What are my alternative options, how else can I cut my TA in half without drastically affecting PH or other chemicals?
I have several different kinds of test strips, but that is the limit of my current testing capabilities. Also, I currently only have the starter pack of chemicals that came with the pool. I will be going to town tomorrow to buy more, and hopeful that there are some suggestions here as to best approach to getting clear water.
