Am I at risk of an algae problem from topsoil runoff - muddy pool

Are you suggesting retest using 0.5 factor instead of the 0.2?
You passed free and clear so this one is all good. Just going forward. For example, using 10ml this time would have probably read 0 loss, or maybe 0.5. Either way it was passing with flying colors and the 0.2 resolution didn't matter.

If it was a 0.8 (25ml) or a 1 (10ml), I'd personally slam those for good measure, but I'm extra.
 
You passed free and clear so this one is all good. Just going forward. For example, using 10ml this time would have probably read 0 loss, or maybe 0.5. Either way it was passing with flying colors and the 0.2 resolution didn't matter.

If it was a 0.8 (25ml) or a 1 (10ml), I'd personally slam those for good measure, but I'm extra.
Gotcha. But yeah, I normally only test with the 10ml. And yes, maybe 0 or maybe 0.5. Wanted to get fairly accurate results on this.

Fighting brown water now. Topsoil just laid yesterday and the heavy rain and winds turned my pool into a murky pond. Filter was at 30psi this morning and I'm process of cleaning.

I'll fight the SWG another day... Once I get new one in. I'll keep testing water in case this new episode introduced algae.
 
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GREAT. Keep the FC up to ensure it's only a mud battle. It doesn't need to be at slam, just enough that you'll be free and clear over min after the daily UV losses. (y)
 
Very cloudy today. Not much sun. Fence company just arrived and they're creating more mess around pad.

It'll be nice when I get new filter in. Even if original is bad (that appears to be the case) I can still use it as a backup when the new gets cleaned.

Have to also drain pool. So will certainly add some chlorine to prevent issues while filter tries to clean the muddy water.
 
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Pool installed on May 31. Over the last 2 months have done concrete form, large concrete pad, and finally on Monday the topsoil was finally brought in for the area around the pad (8 dump truck loads) and spread. So we've had lots of dust, dirt, and concrete issues we've battled religiously and consistently maintained a well-balanced and clean pool

Have an active thread regarding another issue that may be resolved (filter may have been trashed after the concrete form install wreaked havoc on pool and needed to rule out algae). But as part of the resolution, performed an OCLT Monday evening (yesterday). Ironically overnight we had the heaviest rainstorm of the season thus far. Raised pool level about 1.5 inches. Worse though, top soil drained into our former crystal clear pool. We came out this morning to a brown pond that had about 1 inch visibility. Oh... and my overnight loss of FC was 0.5... so one concern averted at that moment (doesn't appear to be algae issue so filter is the likely culprit).

All day have spent running my Dolphin and the pump at nearly 90%. I watch the PSI on filter and clean when hits 10psi higher (had to clean it 3 times today). Dolphin towards evening was producing very little soot in the filters. I can see an image of our tanning ledge and one step. But it's still a horrible brown disgusting mess. Per recommendation performed a partial SLAM to make sure muddy water doesn't become something worse.

Here are most recent tests
FC: 17.5 (done this evening after partial SLAM)
CC: 0.5
Temp: 85
pH... can't accurately test but most recent was 7.6
alk... same as above but most recent was 80
CYA: 80
Salt: 3600
Borates: 50 (used Borax process)
Calcium: 250

I don't want to use floc since have no reasonable means to vacuum to waste and can't say if that's going to actually fix problem (maybe I'll replumb in spring to add hose outlet). Pool was filled with soft water and I top off occasionally from our well pump (has minimal amount of iron and very low mineral content).

Thus the question... is there anything I can do to expedite the brown water other than time and constant filtering? It's heartbreaking to see pool go from crystal glass to this disgusting non-visibility nightmare.
 
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Time and patience. You may need to turn the pump off at times to allow more to settle.

Floc needs to be vac'd to waste so it's a non starter. It can be helpful in this situation though if the filter takes its sweet time.
 
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Should I run overnight and then turn off periodically during the day? Of course it's been pure cloud cover all day long and anticipate same tomorrow. So no UV to help break down the chlorine. But is it good to keep the FC high for now to prevent algae from the muck?

Another post in TFP (for somewhat related issue) mentioned use of muriatic acid to "kick the chlorine into gear." Since I can't get a reliable pH/alk test, is that safe to do? Will the MA help activate the chlorine?

PS... @Newdude... You posted in my other thread so you may recall the original issue for the OCLT.
 
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And to help prevent in future we've been pushing the topsoil layed against the pad out and filling trench with leftover 57 limestone (have a nice size pile to work with). Half of pad is done, completing rest tomorrow before fence company comes to complete our summer project.
 
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And to make sure clear on why I've been cleaning filter so frequently. This is a new pool install. Have had lots of activity over last 2 months. Concrete form, concrete pad, landscape grading, and most recently 8 dump loads of top soil.

So we've been battling constant debris in pool. Dust, dirt, concrete, etc. When filter hits 10psi above normal I clean it. And yes, it has been frequent at times... Not an OCD thing. 😂

Purchased a new filter and once arrive will replace my original. But only after I resolve the brown water issue. Then I'll attempt to deep clean and use it as backup.

Thank you everyone for all the replies. Has been great source of information. 🙏
 
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I've just finished an OB pool and had a few occasions to get a lot of Crud in the pool. Our soil is 85% sand down to 15'. Made a big mess several times. We ran the pump on high speed all night. Usually in one or two days it starts to clear up, then the third day it gets pretty clear but there's a LOT of dirt and sand at the bottom. I don't think there's a robot that could handle this in a reasonable time so I break out the manual vacuum to get most of it up. I still scuba dive and I find it's easier to put on the gear for the deep end and just over-weight a little and manually vacuum with the vacuum end and no pole in the deep end. Then do the half way to shallow with the pole. This stirs up the bottom enough that there's still some that settles later and the bot takes care of it in about 90 min.

You mentioned you clean at 10 psi. What is the clean pressure?

One thing I would never do is add floc. Pool systems are not designed for this no matter what the floc sales person says!

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
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Floc is non-starter and likely nothing I'd use even if I could. I don't like to add anything other than the BBB/MA.

Clean pressure is a tough one since I'm almost certain it got clogged with concrete during the form install. Have a new one arriving shortly and will transition to it once the brown pool issue is resolved. I'll deep clean and keep the original as a backup. And you may have misunderstood... I clean when it goes 10psi over start pressure... Not at 10psi.

But, with what I have to work with, at current high speed (3400), start is 19 and when hits near 30 I clean. When pump primes after cleaning filter (3 minute period at 2250) it's at 10.

And also appears TFP recommends 25% rather than the 10psi rule... So likely should be cleaning at 25.
 
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Crud... I'd be cleaning the dang thing even more frequently then. Especially with current issue. That would be every 2 hours.

But if that's what I should be doing, I'll take that into account and be more proactive. Filter in current condition, clean at 3400 is 19... So clean at 25... Gotcha.
 
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Crud... I'd be cleaning the dang thing even more frequently then. Especially with current issue. That would be every 2 hours.

But if that's what I should be doing, I'll take that into account and be more reactive.
Yep, that is what you should be doing...

Proactive...
 
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Yep, that is what you should be doing...
So I run my pump at 2 speeds... High (2800) for 10 total hours, and low (was 1400 for SWG initially and hopefully in future with new filter) for 14 total hours. The schedule is split 7hrs high, 4hrs low, 3hrs high, and 10hrs low (overnight since pump sits outside bedroom window). And I'm wide open on suggestions if there's a more optimal schedule. Our pool sits in full view of the southern sky. So from sunup to sunset... It gets full blast of sun all day long if that means anything.

High speed start is currently 19... So I'd clean at 25. I wouldn't go by baseline for low speed correct because that would always be lower than high speed? Or should that also be considered?

I'll watch baseline with new filter once start using.
 
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Or should that also be considered?
Nope. Either way is the same when using % of the psi rise. It's just much easier to spot 25% of 19 than it is 25% of a low single digit. Sometimes mine runs at 3psi at low RPM and I probably couldn't even tell. Lol. None of us are getting any younger and I squint more everyday.
 
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And also appears TFP recommends 25% rather than the 10psi rule... So likely should be cleaning at 25.
The 10psi rule is terrible. Just look at your two run speeds

At 19 psi it's 53% more pressure
At 5 psi it's 200% more pressure.

For the same system.

But many gauges in the land have +10 dials and everyone blindly follows them.
 
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The 10psi rule is terrible. Just look at your two run speeds

At 19 psi it's 53% more pressure
At 5 psi it's 200% more pressure.

For the same system.

But many gauges in the land have +10 dials and everyone blindly follows them.
Yep... Blind man here. I'll start using a sharpie and make my own marks
 
24 hour update. Pool still very cloudy but can now see stairs and ledges. Stopped pump for next few hours to allow settle. Will clean filter shortly.

Last evening FC at 17.5 (CC at 0.5), this morning at 15.5 (CC at 0). Should I be concerned about drop in FC even though the SWG ran all night?

From another somewhat related thread it was suggested to add MA to make the chlorine work better. Without an accurate pH/alk test, how do I know how much to add?
 

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