Alternatives to Pentair CCP320 filter

[ZoomML]

Hello!

I'm looking for opinions on replacing my Pentair CCP320 filter (the entire filter, not just the cartridges) with a newer unit. Reason is the band clamp design is a major PITA and the filter was installed with inadequate clearance between the filter and the brick house wall and other piping. My last band clamp lasted 4 yrs before it stripped and I'm tired of dealing with shady sellers on Amazon (retail is ~ $400 for the clamp alone).

Application is a ~ 15k gal salt pool with a 2HP pump. Nominal gauge pressure on the CCP320 is 10-12psi in pool mode, ~20psi in spa mode.

Ideally, would like to replace with a taller but smaller diameter unit that affords more clearance to the house/equipment. Also, a clamp that is a better design would be a plus. I'm not opposed to cleaning it more often if needed.

Thanks for any input!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Let’s see what @wireform @1poolman1 @Lake Placid @bradgray like.

Show us pictures of your equipment pad so we can see what space you are working with.

 

[wireform]

Not sure where you come up with the $400 price tag. Ebay has the OEM pentair for under $200 and aftermarket is in the $50 arena. As @ajw22 said pictures may/can help out here.

 

[Lake Placid]

Unfortunately the Clean and Clear design is one of the smaller footprints available and you’re not going to find much variance in diameter of footprint from manufacturer to manufacturer unless you’re talking Sta Rite which usually would be larger. Typically as flow rate/media area design increases the vertical height changes to accommodate larger carts, but the diameter remains the same. I tend to prefer Hayward clamps over pentair as they seem more robustly designed/constructed to me, but from a design perspective they are not too dissimilar. Pics of your pad may help to come up with options to rework layout to provide you more space/accessibility for servicing.

 

[Newdude]

Sta Rite

I absolutely love the clamps on my Sta Rite system 3 if OP can handle the extra width. But everytime I look them up the major retailers don't have them and theyre only available from the discount resellers like they've been discontinued.

 

[ZoomML]

Many thanks for the replies! This is my second home with a pool and first one used the same design but for a DE (cellulose) filter. I've been using this site for the past 10 years for DIY.

Attached are the pics of the setup. Note that the pump to the right of the CCP320 is for the water feature and not connected to the filter.

@wireform - the $400 seems to be the local retail price, but yes, seems a legitimate online seller price is ~ $200. The tight space isn't an issue for me w.r.t the clamp, it's the design which can lead to the bolt/stud becoming stripped w/o an option to service it. Admittedly, I've only had that happen once. I use an impact wrench to pop the bolt off and re-seat it, with a socket wrench to do the torque down. Switching to the impact wrench greatly improved the experience!

In the end, if there's not a better option, I'll order a new clamp from a more respected seller.

 

[Lake Placid]

I absolutely love the clamps on my Sta Rite system 3 if OP can handle the extra width. But everytime I look them up the major retailers don't have them and theyre only available from the discount resellers like they've been discontinued.

My supplier has plenty of MOD 3’s in stock as we speak. The original system 3 could very well be on the way out superseded by the MOD 3 but I’m not certain about that. The filter clamp system is good imo but can be somewhat too fiddly for some homeowners

 

[Lake Placid]

I use an impact wrench to pop the bolt off and re-seat it, with a socket wrench to do the torque down.

Don’t use an impact. The design of the clamp is to use a stainless stud (hard metal) with a brass barrel nut (softer metal) so the nut will strip and fail before the stud on the clamp would. An impact is very likely inducing damage unnecessarily. Snug the clamp up by hand and use a deadblow to tap the circumference of the clamp while snugging to promote even tightening. Then torque to spec.

 

[ZoomML]

Don’t use an impact. The design of the clamp is to use a stainless stud (hard metal) with a brass barrel nut (softer metal) so the nut will strip and fail before the stud on the clamp would. An impact is very likely inducing damage unnecessarily. Snug the clamp up by hand and use a deadblow to tap the circumference of the clamp while snugging to promote even tightening. Then torque to spec.

I only use the impact to remove and get it going w/o applying to torque to the spring (i.e., no "impacts"). I tighten using a socket wrench and tap with a rubber mallet along the way until the spring touches.

 

[ZoomML]

Update: I was about to order a new clamp from eBay (BackyardPoolSuperstore - seemed legit) but found a used one on NextDoor from someone parting out their old filter. Cleaned up all the silicone gunk in it, now installed w/o any leaks! (@Lake Placid - no impact was used).

Looks like the consensus is there isn't a great replacement filter so I'll keep chugging along with the CCP320 setup with Pleatco cartridge elements.

Next chore is fixing the leak in the Pentair Challenger 2HP filter pump, and eventually finding a replacement VS pump that is compatible with the Hayward AQL-PS-8 salt system.

Edit: forgot to attach the proof!

 

[Newdude]

Looks like the consensus is there isn't a great replacement filter

*isn't a great clamp design for a replacemnt filter.

They all use a similar setup for the large filters. Smaller filters may come where the top is flat and clamps or screws on like a bucket lid. (Each with its own caveats, of course )