All kinds of issues!

Jan 17, 2018
54
DFW Metroplex
First off, let me say that I appreciate any and all help. I bought a house in September of last year, and the prior homeowners made it sound so easy. They said they took pool water to Leslie’s every two weeks and did as they said...can’t get much simpler than that.

A little background: My pool is 12,500 gallons, Hayward sand filter and salt chlorinated, and vinyl lined.

Leslies said to turn off the salt water chlorinator and shock the pool once every two weeks during the off-season (once it got cold in DFW), so that’s what I did.

So so a while back, I started to get these white “bleaching” spots on the vinyl liner. They seem to have grown with time, FWIW. It’ll be in one of the pictures that I attach to this post. I’ve tried to use anti-calcium solution that Leslie’s has recommended to no avail.

And then I started to get dirt, or what I thought was dirt, accumulating in the bottom of the pool. I regularly have to use the robot or attach the manual brush to the hose and suction all of the “dirt”. I think I’ve recently come to the realization that the “dirt” is dead algae, but someone can correct me if I’m wrong.

So im constantly suctioning “dirt” and occasionally backwashing and rinsing the filter - it’s been a constant battle. And it always comes back.

Now ive looked at the side of the vinyl liner (above water level) and it seems to be quite discolored, almost as if it’s dirty, but the dirt doesn’t come off easy (once again, see pictures). Is that algae too?

I have a pool testing chemistry kit, but let’s just say I haven’t had much luck with it. For example, whenever I tested the pH of the pool last fall, I always used to think it was above the max level on the tester (7.8?) - and I asked the folks at Leslie’s...but they always told me it was fine!

Now things seem to be spiraling more and more every day...and I’d like to just be able to get back to a clean, swimmable pool in short order. I really appreciate the input and advice that anyone can offer - as you can tell, I’m pretty new to this whole pool thing.
 
The white might be bleaching if calcium hypochlorite is sitting there.

Alternatively, it might be wear patterns from the cleaner.

The recurring dirt might be mustard algae. Try a SLAM.

The stains might be iron. Try ascorbic acid.
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: First thing's first .... take control of your pool. I think your gut is telling you that, but as new pool owners you (and we all did this) trusted the place that should be giving us good info. They don't! Start by obtaining either a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C test kit. Either is good, but you must have one. I have the TF-100 with speedstir and haven't looked back. You won't either. Next, stay out of the pool store. Please read and bookmark all the links below in my signature. If you are using tablets/pucks, stop. If your water is still too chilly for the SWG to operate (below 60 degrees), just use some regular bleach from HEB or Walmart. It's chlorine. But we need to see a full set of test results from your own "proper" test kit. Then we can get specific and help you tell if what you are seeing is algae, organic staining, or something else. Definitely stay away from any pool store products, bags of shock, etc. Use just regular bleach for now. Once you get the test kit, we'll get very specific. Do some reading on those links and we'll be happy to assist. Relax and have a nice weekend. :cheers:

- - - Updated - - -

dbtgallery.php
 
Welcome to Trouble Free Pool! You've come to right place to learn how to take control of your pool and enjoy it–not loath it. The most important thing is stop taking your water to the Pool $tore and get your own testing kit. In order to properly help you with your water balance we'll need a full set of current test results. The experts on this site recommend the TF-100 (available at TFTestkits.net) the Taylor K-2006 (available at Amazon.com). The price for these kits will payoff themselves the first month you use them.

While you're waiting for your new test kit, read these articles: Pool School - Getting Started and Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry . Then continue with any article in Pool School that interests you! Keep the questions coming and do not be concerned that you feel a bit overwhelmed at the start. Everyone has the same feeling at first, but those who follow the advice here will have a sparkling clear pool with minimum costs.

:D
 
Welcome to Trouble Free Pool! You've come to right place to learn how to take control of your pool and enjoy it–not loath it. The most important thing is stop taking your water to the Pool $tore and get your own testing kit. In order to properly help you with your water balance we'll need a full set of current test results. The experts on this site recommend the TF-100 (available at TFTestkits.net) the Taylor K-2006 (available at Amazon.com). The price for these kits will payoff themselves the first month you use them.

While you're waiting for your new test kit, read these articles: Pool School - Getting Started and Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry . Then continue with any article in Pool School that interests you! Keep the questions coming and do not be concerned that you feel a bit overwhelmed at the start. Everyone has the same feeling at first, but those who follow the advice here will have a sparkling clear pool with minimum costs.

:D

I am suspicious of that particular liner pattern & have seen the same material & symptoms.
I suspect the black is plastizer migrating from the sheet material and the black ink plus dirt.

I suspect the same for the “white” as there is no dirt for it to grab.. I won’t sell that pattern.
 
Ok, lots of information here:

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]NaCl - 2,000ppm (lots of backwashing)[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]FC - 3ppm[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]CC - 0.5ppm[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]CYA - 40ppm[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]pH - 7.4[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]TA - 40ppm[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]CH - 80ppm[/FONT][/FONT]
 

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Any other suggestions based upon water chemistry?
Only that here at TFP, pools with a SWG we generally recommend a minimum CYA of 70. The elevated CYA protects the FC throughout the day and makes them work together more efficiently. As long as your water is crystal clear and there are no concerns with algae, then I would increase the CYA. If you have any doubts about algae, perform an overnight test (Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)) just to make sure in case you need to do a TFP SLAM (link below).
 
Rainy day in DFW. I’ll try the OCLT tomorrow night, but I assume that it will come out OK.

Just not 100% sure what’s driving the “dirt” on the bottom of the pool or the bit of discoloration I’d add more photos but the forum says that I’m using all available space.

Thanks for y’all’s help thus far.

Michael

CCF8F91F-0CB6-4BE8-AEE3-E0FD5BBF5C2D.jpg
 
Nice layout. :goodjob:

When it stops raining and you have a chance it would be good to do that over night chlorine loss test before you bring up the CYA level. That way if you need to SLAM you'll end up using less bleach. Once you pass the OCLT then it would be a good idea to raise the CYA level. You can do the salt any time.
 
I completed the OCLT test (evening measurement) and I came up with 0.4 ppm FC
If I understand correctly, you took your first (evening) measurement and it was 0.4 correct? If I misunderstood please let me/us know. But if your FC is .4 right now, that's very, very low. Remember by looking at the Chlorine/CYA Chart (link is in my signature), since your last CYA test was 40, your FC should be between 5-7 and never below 3.0 or you can get algae. The FC should be at "16" during a SLAM. SO if that's the case, you'll want to increase that right away with some regular bleach.

For the OCLT (links in above posts), you take your first evening/bedtime measurement (let's say an FC of 10 for example), then check it in the morning before the sun hits the water. You hope it didn't drop more than 1 ppm overnight (9 in this example). If it did, the pool failed the OCLT and a SLAM is required or should continue.

I hope that helps answer your question.

Also, for the FC testing, make sure you are using a 10ml water sample. Add ONE heaping scoop to the sample and stir from pink to clear. Divide that result in half. So a count of 20 drops would be an FC of 10. This process is accurate and will save you some reagents.
 
If I don’t have liquid bleach on hand, is shock sufficient?
The problem with those bags in they have side effects - either additional stabilizer (dichlor or trichlor = CYA) or calcium (Cal-Hypo = CH). Not only do they increase those items, but you can never really achieve the high FC level needed consistently. When you are ready to do the SLAM and keep the FC elevated, it's simply best to grab several bottles of regular bleach from either HEB (Bravo) or Walmart (Great Value) and use that to maintain your SLAM level. Before doing that, make sure to lower the pH to 7.2 and always follow each step on the SLAM page (link below). The SLAM works, but you must follow it to the letter, otherwise you end-up wasting personal time and money on bleach. It may sound tacky, but make sure you are, "In it to win it" and 100% invested to doing the SLAM when you pull the trigger. Good luck!
 
What are the dosing instructions for store-bought chlorine?
You'll find the easiest and best way is to use the Poolmath Calculator from this site. There's a link in my sig below and a link at the top of the web page (POOLMATH). From there, look at the row titled (FC), enter your NOW and TARGET numbers and the calculator will tell you how much to add. NOTE: Make sure to enter the "weight" in the white box. The bleach containers you get will have a % value listed (i.e. 6%, 8.25%, etc), so you enter that in the white box.

PS ~ If you do go to Walmart, see if their Great Value is listed as 6% or 8.25%. I know HEB's regular Bravo is still 8.25% at $2.94 a gallon. You want the strongest % for your buck.

You can also use that calculator for any other chemicals. Very valuable!
 

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