Algea bloom? Initial pool setup help

[chi-chi]

Hello everyone I need help with water chemistry and initial setup. I have read pool school but am still new and confused. Here's my situation...

I filled the pool below the skimmer and returns about a week ago and the next week which was last week I filled it up the rest of the way. Fast forward to the weekend (present time) and the pool turned green overnight! There are no chemicals or salt in the water and I was finalizing electrical so the pump was also not operational.

I now have my pumps working and turned on to run on "FP" or free pump on the filter setting alone with no chemicals or salt. What should I do now? When do I add salt? When should I turn on the Saltwater generator? Do I need to add any chemicals? I have a Taylor test kit recommended from here on hand and salt that's it. Pump and filter currently running on FP filter and I plan to let it run for 12 hours on its first run no chemicals.

 

[mknauss]

What volume is the pool?
You cannot put water in a pool and not keep it chemically managed. It will turn green, like yours has.

It most likely would be best to drain the pool, clean it, and refill it and start of on the right foot. Trying to clear this will take more effort than it is worth I believe.

 

[chi-chi]

What volume is the pool?
You cannot put water in a pool and not keep it chemically managed. It will turn green, like yours has.

It most likely would be best to drain the pool, clean it, and refill it and start of on the right foot. Trying to clear this will take more effort than it is worth I believe.

I don't want to have to drain it is there any other way? I am open to trying..

It's an intex 12x24 rectangular pool so it's approximately 7800 gallons I believe.

And wouldn't the chemicals needed be cheaper than the water refill? I'm okay with effort and time to fix as we are in no rush to swim and have waited this long already.

 

[AK-]

How much costs your full water?
When you intend to use the pool?

The process to clear your pool will require a LOT of liquid chlorine, a reliable test kit, several days, a LOT filter cleaning (and you may struggle to vacuum the dead algae out.

Unless your fill water too expensive you will better of starting from scratch. Your type of pool is the only type that can be drain completely.

 

[chi-chi]

How would I drain the pool completely? The only way this is an option is if I could get the water to drain to a gutter which is quite a ways away. There isn't a way to do this otherwise? I appreciate the easy solution but I am willing to do the hard work to save on costs. But if MUST drain the pool how would I do so conveniently with a hose to a gutter drain on the street?

I have a submersible sump pump and 100ft backwash hose but that isn't even long enough honestly

 

[AK-]

Unless your water if very expensive it is likely the hard way will cost you more.

You need to check city regulation to see if you can drain to the storm water system. Some places allow it, other don’t.

If you really want to treat your water you are going to need a test kit. Usually the TF-100 is the best overall value, but I’m not sure if you are going to need all of it (other folks may pitch in here). Test strips won’t cut, they are difficult to read accurately and usually don’t measure FC high enough.

 

[chi-chi]

I've already purchased a Taylor K-2006C (not sure how to add this info to my signature) which was recommended here. It's sitting unopened. I'll let the pump and filter run for 12 hours which will be 7am tomorrow and reassess. I'll post pictures tomorrow of how it looks and if it needs to be drained I'll have to figure out how and where to drain it which to me is more hassle than cleaning and fixing the pool but I'll take whatever advice.

 

[mknauss]

Your signature shows up, but it shows you have a 5 way test kit, not K2006. Please edit your signature.

To use this water you need to add 30 ppm of CYA. Adjust pH to 7.2 with acid, and add liquid chlorine to get to 12ppm FC and maintain that level by testing FC every 2-3 hours and adding more liquid chlorine to get back to 12 ppm FC.

Follow the SLAM Process

 

[AK-]

My biggest concern is your cartridge. You will need to clean it frequently.

 

[mknauss]

My biggest concern is your cartridge.

Signature says sand filter ??

 

[AK-]

Signature says sand filter ??

Humm. Somehow it stuck in my mind it was the small intex cartridge filter… never mind then.

 

[chi-chi]

I actually have two pumps running. One with 2 hayward skimmers as inlets (intex Krystal Clear Sand Filter & swg 16") and another intex sand filter 12" and this one has the two intex inlets and I cut in another return jet for it. They both running simultaneously...

 

[mknauss]

No reason to run any pumps until you add chemicals.

 

[chi-chi]

Okay I'll turn them off. What should I do 1st? Taylor K-2006C test?

 

[mknauss]

Test pH and TA. If you have added no chemicals, the other tests are not needed. Use the pH and TA to determine how much acid you need to use if the pH is above 7.2.

 

[chi-chi]

Test pH and TA. If you have added no chemicals, the other tests are not needed. Use the pH and TA to determine how much acid you need to use if the pH is above 7.2.

@mknauss thank you! I will run a test tomorrow morning and report back. I'll re read pool school again and also try and make sense of it again. Doing is always better for me.. thanks again.

 

[chi-chi]

@mknauss thank you! I will run a test tomorrow morning and report back. I'll re read pool school again and also try and make sense of it again. Doing is always better for me.. thanks again.

@mknauss my PH* was at 8.2 and it took 4 drops to get to 7.2 which based on the kit I used it says that I need 1 quart of muriatic acid for a 10GL pool and 1 pint of muriatic acid for 5GL. Any suggestions on this?

For TA it took 8-9 drops x10 which equals 80-90. Any help would be appreciated. (I also used a pool master 5 way test kit that I have and never used before and purchased before I was told about the Taylor K-2006C) I wanted to use up my cheap stuff before using my expensive kit just in case this doesn't work and I have to drain the pool still for some reason. Didn't want to waste chemicals as I'm still learning.

 

[mknauss]

So your pH was 8.2 and your TA is 90. Using PoolMath, you need to add 21 oz of 31.45% muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.2. Add that, circulate the pool for 30 minutes, test pH again, and if at or near 7.2, start the SLAM Process

 

[chi-chi]

So your pH was 8.2 and your TA is 90. Using PoolMath, you need to add 21 oz of 31.45% muriatic acid to lower your pH to 7.2. Add that, circulate the pool for 30 minutes, test pH again, and if at or near 7.2, start the SLAM Process

@mknauss would the attached muriatic acid work? I couldn't find percentages on it but I have this on hand now!

Klean-Strip Green 1 Gal. Green Muriatic Acid GKGM75006 - The Home Depot

For Pro's and DIY'ers, Klean-Strip is the leading brand of solvents, thinners, removers, and cleaners that are dependable for reliable results. Klean-Strip Muriatic Acid can be used to etch concrete, brighten concrete and masonry, or remove excess mortar from bricks. 90% lower fumes than...

www.homedepot.com

 

[mknauss]

I believe that is typically 20%. Use a quart of it.