Algae has won the battle...help me win the WAR!

This whole darn thing is *odd*

No potions at least not in months. The CC has dropped by half since last night but the FC has remained the same. The CC was zero at the beginning of this science experiment. Should I add all 5lbs of CYA at once or partial and test before adding the balance?
 
I can only suggest adding the 5 lbs as that gets you to 30.

You could add half but you will not be able to test for it as it is below the level the test can read.

I am sorry I have not been more help - something is going on here that is hidden.
 
Hits me as strange as well. The test kit is new, the reagent is new and I understand the testing procedure. I measure carefully in each of the tubes, count the drops and read the instructions each time I do the test to be sure I'm not the error....

It's a mystery to me, too. I'm open to any suggestions...
 
Do the chlorine test that's attached to the pH test. Sorry but I can't remember the name of it and I'm at work so I can't look at the bottle. I'm curious what that will read, given that you've had 2FC continously for quite a while. Maybe you got a bad patch of reagents or something? When you add the DPD powder, is it turning dark pink, or a light pink? Can you see a few grains of the powder left in the bottom of the test tube? Whether or not seeing a few grains is important, I'm not sure, but I can always see a little excess powder in the bottom when I test.
 
OTO - or K1000.

Yea, that one, lol. Thanks. I don't even do that one myself anymore since I know I have chlorine in my pool anyway, and I use the digital pH meter from tftestkits.

sqbagal, the OTO test is very good in that while it can't read accurately above 5ppm, it will turn at least some shade of yellow if there's any chlorine in the sample, period. Kinda hard to screw it up too. If you think your FAS-DPD test results might be messed up, it'll at least reassure you that there is some chlorine in your pool, and that if it isn't as dark as the 5ppm shade of yellow, then you're under 5ppm. Read the notes on Pool School - OTO Chlorine Test to get a since of measuring FC and TC using the OTO test.
 
If they both say 2 FC, at least you know your testing is right, albeit that says nothing about what the f is in your pool. Did you add anything to lower your pH? Normally it rises up, not down
 

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Well, I thought I'd start over and took readings this morning:

FC 1
CC 3
TA 130
CYA 0

K-1000 results
CL .5 went to 5
PH 7.0

I didn't add any bleach or CYA yesterday. So should I just start from these reading and forget the past?
 
That appears to be the best path forward. Something happened to the CYA, and something is happening to the chlorine you add at an alarming rate.

I have one question - in the past - have you added anything that contains sodium bromide? There are some algaecides that have that.

I ask - because they do not go away without draining your pool. And they completely screw up the process of chlorine, CYA, etc.

Keep asking questions -- but again - I am sorry I have not been more help in solving this conundrum.
 
I've used Green to Clean

I just tried to find out what that is. The manufacturer says they do not have to list the ingredients because it does nothing without chlorine ---- that sounds suspiciously like sodium bromide ---

I will ask someone if they know what it is --
 
I've used Green to Clean

Did a search on Green to Clean in the forum. It adds ammonia. Should not have impacted your CYA but the only way the CYA goes away that quick is the bacteria that eats and creates ammonia. So I think you had a major ammonia issue.

My best advice is to add enough CYA so that you can test for it, 30 ppm, and keep adding 2 gallons of liquid chlorine a day. Hopefully it will hold.

Good luck.
 
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