After 2 weeks using test kit and Pool Math I still have cloudy deep end

Xuna

Gold Supporter
Jun 19, 2021
40
Warren Ohio
Pool Size
31000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have been faithfully using the test kit and doing what Pool Math is advising. I did make the mistake of putting washing soda in the pool earlier this week, but that has cleared back to the original state which was cloudy in deep end (can't see the bottom). We have had lots of rain this week, but I have been testing everyday and adjusting and adding as recommended by Pool Math.

Tonight's readings are:
pH 7.2
FC 4
CC 0
CH 250
TA 90
CYA 40

I have not returned for help at the pool store. Any suggestions as to what I can do next? I'm leaving for vacation on Thursday and would like to have it be "OK" for a week with little maintenance.

Also...I am confused on the "Recommended" vs "Ideal" vs "Target" numbers. Which one am I following?
 
I have been faithfully using the test kit and doing what Pool Math is advising. I did make the mistake of putting washing soda in the pool earlier this week, but that has cleared back to the original state which was cloudy in deep end (can't see the bottom). We have had lots of rain this week, but I have been testing everyday and adjusting and adding as recommended by Pool Math.

Tonight's readings are:
pH 7.2
FC 4
CC 0
CH 250
TA 90
CYA 40

I have not returned for help at the pool store. Any suggestions as to what I can do next? I'm leaving for vacation on Thursday and would like to have it be "OK" for a week with little maintenance.

Also...I am confused on the "Recommended" vs "Ideal" vs "Target" numbers. Which one am I following?
When did the cloudyness start and is it green algae cloudy or white scale cloudy? Got a picture?

it does look like you should get more chlorine in there.
 
using the fc/cya chart
your target fc for a cya of 40 is 5-7 with a minimum of 3
i always allow a couple of points higher for peace of mind
so when you test i would add enough chlorine to get to 8 or 9ppm
if you target 5ppm and someone pees in the pool or you have several people in the pool, you will be below 3ppm before you know it
 
using the fc/cya chart
your target fc for a cya of 40 is 5-7 with a minimum of 3
i always allow a couple of points higher for peace of mind
so when you test i would add enough chlorine to get to 8 or 9ppm
if you target 5ppm and someone pees in the pool or you have several people in the pool, you will be below 3ppm before you know it
my pool is not a toilet...lol thanks!
When did the cloudyness start and is it green algae cloudy or white scale cloudy? Got a picture?

it does look like you should get more chlorine in
 
my pool is not a toilet...lol thanks!
When did the cloudyness start and is it green algae cloudy or white scale cloudy? Got a picture?

it does look like you should get more chlorine in there.
The pool opened that way. This was after being balanced at closing in the fall. I was told by the pool store that I had phosphates and that was why I could not hold a FC reading. They had me treat for phosphates (had to clean filter and let sit overnight and backwash/rinse to get phosphates out) and over 2 weeks dumped over 80 bags of Burnout 73 in the pool along with some other stuff. My frustration with lack of results brought me to TFP. When the sun comes out I will get you a photo. There is no green at all in the pool or has been this year, or actually ever. I would go with the cloudy white description. Not sure exactly what you mean by the "scale" part of your description. I do know that there is residue in the pool that I am constantly cleaning up. I'm going to send my husband in the pool next week when we get back from vacation with his scuba tank on to hand vac the bottom of the deep end. Here is a picture of the residue in the pool. I also dumped half the pool and refilled 2 weeks ago. Helped a little bit.
 

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The pool opened that way. This was after being balanced at closing in the fall. I was told by the pool store that I had phosphates and that was why I could not hold a FC reading. They had me treat for phosphates (had to clean filter and let sit overnight and backwash/rinse to get phosphates out) and over 2 weeks dumped over 80 bags of Burnout 73 in the pool along with some other stuff. My frustration with lack of results brought me to TFP. When the sun comes out I will get you a photo. There is no green at all in the pool or has been this year, or actually ever. I would go with the cloudy white description. Not sure exactly what you mean by the "scale" part of your description. I do know that there is residue in the pool that I am constantly cleaning up. I'm going to send my husband in the pool next week when we get back from vacation with his scuba tank on to hand vac the bottom of the deep end. Here is a picture of the residue in the pool. I also dumped half the pool and refilled 2 weeks ago. Helped a little bit.
Burnout73 is calhypo it looks like. 80 lbs would add a lot of calcium to your water. By “scale” I mean when too much calcium is in the water and the pH is in the right zone, the calcium can precipitate out and collect on the walls, floor, and inside equipment. It might also make it look cloudy water. What’s the CH now? If you you the poolmath app it’ll calculate the CSI for you which might help determine if your pool water is likely having calcium scale building up.
 
Burnout73 is calhypo it looks like. 80 lbs would add a lot of calcium to your water. By “scale” I mean when too much calcium is in the water and the pH is in the right zone, the calcium can precipitate out and collect on the walls, floor, and inside equipment. It might also make it look cloudy water. What’s the CH now? If you you the poolmath app it’ll calculate the CSI for you which might help determine if your pool water is likely having calcium scale building up.
My CH was 250 this morning. Newbie here, what is CSI and can you tell me where to find it on Pool Math?
 
My CH was 250 this morning. Newbie here, what is CSI and can you tell me where to find it on Pool Math?
Click the little gear icon at the top and check the option named “track CSI”. It needs to be slightly negative to prevent scaling.
 

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What was the “other stuff” you mentioned adding a few posts back?
A phosphate remover called Nano-Phos then clean filter, Pool Complete (Bioguard) double doses every other day to help clear water, bicarb for low TA multiple times along with multiple times of muratic acid to adjust pH, all in addtional to regular opening products. This along with the Burnout 73.
 
A phosphate remover called Nano-Phos then clean filter, Pool Complete (Bioguard) double doses every other day to help clear water, bicarb for low TA multiple times along with multiple times of muratic acid to adjust pH, all in addtional to regular opening products. This along with the Burnout 73.
I can’t find what’s in the “pool complete” so will need to let someone more knowledgeable look at that in addition to what the “regular opening products” you used actually are. Do you have a list of what they are?

Generally the opening and closing products are the same basic chlorine and acid used during the season, though there’s some specific items that TFP endorses in special cases. I don’t use anything other than chlorine, acid, stabilizer, and occasionally calcium. I’d be very wary of adding anything else.

I can point you to the pool school articles on recommended and non-recommended products.
 
Pool complete is a phosphate remover.

The addition of all those items have left a lot of polymers in the water that will take time to get removed.
 
I can’t find what’s in the “pool complete” so will need to let someone more knowledgeable look at that in addition to what the “regular opening products” you used actually are. Do you have a list of what they are?

Generally the opening and closing products are the same basic chlorine and acid used during the season, though there’s some specific items that TFP endorses in special cases. I don’t use anything other than chlorine, acid, stabilizer, and occasionally calcium. I’d be very wary of adding anything else.

I can point you to the pool school articles on recommended and non-recommended products.
Thanks for all your advice. Pool opening is different every year. This year it was Bicarb, Lo N Slow, Back Up, chlorine and adding Pool Complete. I have attached the reading on opening.

Today's readings are:

pH 7.2
FC 3.5
CC 0
TA 70
CH 100
CYA 50
Temp 84
CSI -0.83

I added 2 cups of DE Filter Powder and am seeing a very slight improvement in visibility in deep end.

Please take a look at today's Pool Math recommendations. I am doing SLAM, or attempting it today.
 

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Sounds like time is needed to get all that stuff out of the water per mknauss. I’m not sure if a SLAM is needed for that or not. Only bit of advice now is get more chlorine in it as the poolmath log you posted has it way below the minimum. So cloudiness could be algae growing. Don’t let it ever get below the minimum.
 
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Sounds like time is needed to get all that stuff out of the water per mknauss. I’m not sure if a SLAM is needed for that or not. Only bit of advice now is get more chlorine in it as the poolmath log you posted has it way below the minimum. So cloudiness could be algae growing. Don’t let it ever get below the minimum.
Thank you for all your advice.
 
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