Advice on Water Balance - post pool school

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Excellent! Thx everyone for all the great advice. It’s not easy figuring all the fine details and the how to”s for this stuff but I think I’m getting it a little better. Only takening me 3 seasons to stop paying someone else who never paid this much attention and surely didn’t care.

Thx again
 
The recommended test kits only require color matching for the pH test. All the rest (besides CYA) are titration where you count drops until a color change completes. Very repeatable and not reliant on correct calibration. Plus, there are significant limitation to the ColorQ ... like the limited FC range which will not allow you to follow the SLAM Process process.
 
As long as I am keeping my FC and TC in check and trying to manage my other levels decent would I ever need to do a SLAM. Considering my pool is only open 5 months of the year and I under take an opening process of shocking the pool and that’s it.

I have heard (read) about this SLAM idea but don’t really understand when you need to do this. I have had the pool for 3 seasons and have never seen my fc or Tc way out of whack, never had any Algea (outside of when I first open her in May)
 
So after 12 litres of Magic Acid (muriatic Acid version) here are this aft’s test results. I’m getting there for sure. Just trying to bring up PH to the 7.8 range before I hit it again with muriatic to bring the TA down to 100. Need to add stabilizer to bring up CYA as well.

Question about FC, pool math says keep FC between 2-8 but what is the ideal swimming level. My old test suggestion was between 1-3 ppm I always liked it around 2ppm. Any suggestions?

Results:

Build Type: Vinyl
Volume: 130000 liters
------------------------------------------
Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 3.4 (a minute ago)
CC: 3.6 (a minute ago)
pH: 7.2 (a minute ago)
TA: 134 (a minute ago)
CH: 313 (a minute ago)
CYA: 38 (a minute ago)
SALT: 3100 (a minute ago)
TEMPERATURE: 79° (a minute ago)
CSI: 0.39 (a minute ago)
==========================================
 
Does it ever make sense to shut off a SWgenerator and use a couple trichlor pucks to manage fc at the same time bring up CYA? I thought with my current chem I could accomplish the FC Management while raising the CYA since the stabilzer in the sock in the slimmer isnt really raising my CYA LEVEL and holding it. I’m at 38cya right now and I think tfp math wants 70-80
 
You need to always keep the FC above the minimum listed for your CYA level in the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
Safe to swim above the minimum. Safe to swim at the shock level even.

Over the last few weeks, I have put a few trichlor tablets in a floater to bump up my CYA a bit (and help to keep the pH down). Left the SWG running on its normal schedule.

But, there is no way you can dissolve the CYA in the sock in the skimmer and not have it "hold". If it dissolved, then it is in the water. You just keep using an unreliable test.
 
I read that thread a number of times. It dates back to 2007 -2011. Lamotte has made many upgrades to the versions of the years now v4 on the tester.

Even within that thread there are differing opinions.

Not sure how you can come to the conclusion that because I am using ColorQ my readings are off. I just got back from the pool store and they also use the Taylor kit k6000 and the levels matched my reading +- 2% on most readings maybe.

Thx to those who have offered some really good information about how to adjust levels
 

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Sacman11 said:
Just trying to bring up PH to the 7.8 range before I hit it again with muriatic to bring the TA down to 100.
Click to expand...

WHY???

Your TA of 134 is perfectly fine. Leave your PH alone and let it rise naturally.

Stop fussing about your TA. You risk causing yourself other problems down the road.
 
Ajw22... I hear what you are saying and it makes sense. I think I got a little ocd on the pool math trying to dial everything in perfectly.

Do I need to bring up my CYA (35-38) right now or should I just continue to aerate and focus on PH of 7.5-7.6 is this correct

Thx
 
Your pH is fine at 7.2 but that is the lower limit of OK. It will climb on its own particularly with SWG usage, without you consciously aerating.

I'd be more concerned about your CC number if that is in fact meant to be CC and isn't a typo and meant to be TC
 
Sacman11 said:
Ajw22... I hear what you are saying and it makes sense. I think I got a little ocd on the pool math trying to dial everything in perfectly.

Do I need to bring up my CYA (35-38) right now or should I just continue to aerate and focus on PH of 7.5-7.6 is this correct

Thx
Click to expand...

In Winnipeg at this time of year you can leave your CYA at 40 ppm. The sun angle is dropping rapidly so you can have a lower CYA than we would normally advise with a SWCG. Just keep your minimum FC at 3 ppm or higher.
 
STOP AERATING! Your PH of 7.2 is fine. With your TA it will naturally rise. There is no reason to rush it along.

Stop trying to dial in perfect numbers. Ranges are published for a reason. Anywhere in the range is EQUALLY good. Any PH in the 7’S is good. Dont adjust the PH unless it falls below 7 or above 8.

Learn what values your pool stabilizes at in each range with as little intervention as possible.

Do what Marty said on the CYA.
 
Thanks guys lots, starting to make sense to me now.

My FC this aft is at 3.4 and my TC is at 3.58 which I believe makes my CC .18.

Not sure why but when I send the log data to the notepad on iPhone using POOL MATH app it reports FC and CC but CC is actually TC. Is this s glitch in the APP?
 
Poolmath Logs FC and CC, not TC. FC and CC are "relevant" to the care of the pool.... TC while it is too, is just redundant. We always look at tests as

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
 

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