Additional Methods to Minimize Algae

[mguzzy]

What do you do about the phosphates that enter your pool after the Spring? (and they do)

Nothing. the biggest contribution of phosphates in MY POOL is from the Winter crud that falls/blows in it. I say MY POOL in caps because everyone's situation is different. Once I bring my phosphates down in the spring, additional contributions are minimal.. and maintaining my FC works just fine after that. There is some anecdotal evidence that bringing phosphates down is not bad for your SWG either. After running my SWG for going on 15years there might be some credence to that. In the bigger picture I consider my pool as an ecological system ... there is all kinds of stuff going on in there. Phosphates control is just another tool in my arsenal.

Next option is the one I personally use, phosphate removers. Summers for me a a major headache and I often don’t baby the pool as I should. I’ve found that in my personal pool removing phosphates do give me some extra insurance if (or in my case when) my chlorine level drops below FC/CYA ratio. Removing phosphates will almost never totally prevent algae (levels below 100ppm algae can’t live, but you’ll never remove that many) but can give you some extra time to get your chlorine level back up.

Can we call it a phosphate SLAM and start our own website before Denny's grabs the name?

 

[duraleigh]

I hi-jacked the op's thread too much. I'll post some more questions on the use of phosphate remover another time in it's own thread.

 

[goody222]

hey no problem Dave, I appreciate your help.

BTW, waterfall shouldn't be an issue. Its a Rico Rock 28" waterfall with a pretty small basin. Going to plan on brushing at frequencies greater than 1 week and see if that helps.

 

[fishing]

I'm going to chime in on the phosphate "debate." I've had trouble keeping my FC levels below 12 (cya 60-80) ever since I installed a SWG. Every time I would try to work down the FC to my target level the water would start to cloud up and I'd have to slam again, as the SWG would not keep up. I tested my phosphate level using the Taylor kit and it was over 4000. So last week I decided to use a phosphate remover just to see what happens. It took quite a bit of time and effort (cartridge cleaning) but I finally cleared the water. It's only been 3 or 4 days but I have been able to finally keep my FC below 12 without clouding. I'm still fine tuning the level. I know it's anecdotal and I know it's not recommended here. But it SEEMS to have worked in MY pool. It's only been about a week so I'll see how it goes. If I have the same problems again I'll jump back on the "phosphates don't matter" wagon.

 

[goody222]

Sounds good, keep us informed on how its going. One question though - how reliable are your pH measurements? I've read multiple times on here that pH is unreliable at FC over 10ppm (which is why you adjust pH prior to a SLAM). Something to keep in mind if you haven't thought about it.

I only have another month left with the pool open, so I'm going to start up on the phosphates first thing when I open the pool in the spring.

 

[fishing]

I didn't mean to talk you into it, just sharing my most recent endeavor. I'm not about to offer advice in contradiction to the experts here. I think (!) my pH measurements are ok as long as I'm not at FC levels above 15. But that's a guess on my part. I don't seem to have that much trouble with pH in any event.

 

[Leebo]

I’ve only have another month left with the pool open, so I'm going to start up on the phosphates first thing when I open the pool in the spring.

If I may ask, do you add a polyquat 60 when you close your pool??

I think (!) my pH measurements are ok as long as I'm not at FC levels above 15. But that's a guess on my part.

Close........pH measurements can be off if your chlorine level is above 10.

 

[ajw22]

I think (!) my pH measurements are ok as long as I'm not at FC levels above 15.

Taylor OTO pH Test is Unreliable When FC Greater then 10

 

[Oceansol]

Forgive me if I've misunderstood this, but I thought that one of the foundational principles of TFP was that if you keep CYA and FC at the proper levels (for your situation), that phosphates don't matter. What am I missing here?

 

[duraleigh]

I'm going to chime in on the phosphate "debate." I've had trouble keeping my FC levels below 12 (cya 60-80) ever since I installed a SWG. Every time I would try to work down the FC to my target level the water would start to cloud up and I'd have to slam again, as the SWG would not keep up. I tested my phosphate level using the Taylor kit and it was over 4000. So last week I decided to use a phosphate remover just to see what happens. It took quite a bit of time and effort (cartridge cleaning) but I finally cleared the water. It's only been 3 or 4 days but I have been able to finally keep my FC below 12 without clouding. I'm still fine tuning the level. I know it's anecdotal and I know it's not recommended here. But it SEEMS to have worked in MY pool. It's only been about a week so I'll see how it goes. If I have the same problems again I'll jump back on the "phosphates don't matter" wagon

. For the purpose of this discussion, we have to assume that your cloudiness is caused by algae in your pool. What's wrong with your premise is you are crediting the phosphate remover for preventing algae........which it doesn't do. If we follow what you are saying then the conclusion is you could not prevent algae in your pool until you put in phosphate remover......I can't make that make sense......it has no algaecidal properties.

It also disregards that algae can feed on nitrates in your pool perhaps just as easily or perhaps even more easily than phosphates.......I don't know.

What I do sometimes see in these anecdotal episodes is that because of the trouble with algae in the past, a new, heightened awareness of chlorine levels, filtering, brushing, etc are implemented to combat the cloudiness and your use of phosphate remover is one among several things you are now doing differently. Have you changed any of your other pool water management practices or just simply added the phosphate remover?

 

[goody222]

Leebo: Actually, I left the pool open the last 2 winters (Virginia here) but it was a PAIN in the rear keeping up with all the debris falling in, and the freeze protection kicked in quite a bit at night raising my electric bill. I'm going to close it for the first time in late Oct using all TFP guidelines, and yes, I'll use Poly 60.

 

[fishing]

. For the purpose of this discussion, we have to assume that your cloudiness is caused by algae in your pool. What's wrong with your premise is you are crediting the phosphate remover for preventing algae........which it doesn't do. If we follow what you are saying then the conclusion is you could not prevent algae in your pool until you put in phosphate remover......I can't make that make sense......it has no algaecidal properties.

It also disregards that algae can feed on nitrates in your pool perhaps just as easily or perhaps even more easily than phosphates.......I don't know.

What I do sometimes see in these anecdotal episodes is that because of the trouble with algae in the past, a new, heightened awareness of chlorine levels, filtering, brushing, etc are implemented to combat the cloudiness and your use of phosphate remover is one among several things you are now doing differently. Have you changed any of your other pool water management practices or just simply added the phosphate remover?

The cloudiness I referred to was absolutely caused by algae because it corresponds to immediate FC consumption. I haven't said (yet) that the phosphate removal has prevented anything. I have said that I have noticed a difference. My attention to chlorine levels, brushing, etc, is the same as it ever was. I test 2 or 3 times per day, every day. Or at least since my SWG install. As I said above, I'm monitoring the pool for changes. I never advised anyone to do anything.