Additional Methods to Minimize Algae

[goody222]

For the second year in a row I’ve had to SLAM my pool at least a couple of times a season (which puts it out of commission for up to a week since we don’t like the chlorine smell plus it adds a LOT of extra work and trips for bleach). This is despite reading hundreds of threads on how to prevent it, bulletproof chemistry (CYA 60-70 with FC 8-10), brushing weekly, etc. I understand algae can just happen even with great care.

Anyway, I’m accepting that it will happen occasionally and now I’m focusing on other methods to prevent/reducing the impact of the algae. I just read TFP’s article on Borates and how they can help prevent algae so I’m going to try that next season. Any other ideas/products you would recommend to also try? Would getting a phosphate test kit / phosphate remover also help a bit? I don’t mind spending the extra $$. Thanks!

 

[PoolGate]

How are you testing your water? How often do you test? The answer to algae is always "use more chlorine". So I question whether your FC or CYA tests are accurate. I have never had even a single spec of algae in my pool. If you are using poolmath can you share your results (do this in the app)?

 

[Cody]

I don't think you need to accept that it will occasionally happen. It really won't if you:

a) have a proper test kit and test frequently
b) keep water chemistry in line with the TFP methods (get the Pool Math app if you don't have it)

Seriously, DO NOT "accept" algae.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Goody,

What you say is just not true... Once you get rid of algae, it will not come back unless you don't follow the CYA/FC chart.. Now, it you almost SLAM and stop before you should, algae will remain in your pool... The normal target FC level is enough to keep algae at bay for a little while, but it will not kill it and it will eventually come back.

I have three saltwater pools that together have been running for a total of 19 years without a spec of algae... I have yet to use a single bag of pool store shock, Phos-free, algaecides, or any other pool store chemicals..

I can only assume that algae is hiding in your pool.. under a ladder, behind the light, or ??? If this were my pool I would run the SLAM harder and longer than necessary and double my efforts to eradicate any remaining algae.. A little extra work during a SLAM will prevent you from having to do it again.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mguzzy]

I'll chime in here.. if your FC is kept in check then technically you shouldn't have to worry about phosphates. If there is no algae, there is nothing to eat the phosphates... that is the logic in a perfect TFP pool. But if you let your FC slip.. and algae takes hold now they have a food source. Personally I have a lot of organic matter that falls in my pool especially over the winter... so I deal with phosphates at the beginning of the season, and then I don't worry about it the rest of the summer. ....I figure what the heck.. take one more thing off the table.
I see you have solar panels on the roof. Do you run water through them all the time, occasionally? I have to remember to fire up my waterfalls every now and then to flush them out. Algae can develop any place where the water is stagnant. Also corners that are hard to brush, ie flapper door, ladders, etc.
Also if you are having issues keeping your FC at level, have you considered a more automated way to add CL, either a Stenner pump or an SWG. I'm a big SWG fan, so don't get me started. Please get me started

 

[goody222]

To answer all your questions, yes I use the Taylor 2006 kit, take precise measurements, sample often and follow all TFP guidelines. I tried poolmath in the past but prefer to keep an excel sheet that can fit up to 2 months of results at a time (so I can quickly look for any trends). I maintain CYA 60 or 70 while maintaining FC 8-9, well over band which I started doing this year to prevent an algae outbreak. In fact, I keep bleach on hand so if it drops to 6 I can instantly raise it. I do use the solar roof panels and waterfall daily (and cyle them on/off often during SLAM) and get my snorkel out to scrub everything in sight after an outbreak. I'll use a toilet brush to get all corners, lights, etc (I even remove the eyelets from the returns to scrub). I never finish a SLAM until I get 0.5 on the overnight test. Algae has never come back within a month of a SLAM (which to me seem like I'm not getting a rebound). At least I've never had a bad outbreak - I catch it right away and the algae part you can see will be gone 24 hours after starting the SLAM.
Trust me, I'm pretty frustrated. I'm not looking for an alternative TO CHLORINE, just ideas to supplement it. Thanks for all your input.

 

[PoolGate]

What is your sample size for the Chlorine test?

 

[goody222]

10ml, is that what you mean? The 25ml doesn't seem useful and a waste of reagent.

 

[PoolGate]

10ml, is that what you mean? The 25ml doesn't seem useful and a waste of reagent.

Trying to figure out if something is wrong with your testing supplies or perhaps methods. I assume you are using the drop test? How old is the re-agent?

 

[goody222]

powder is new, drops are less than a year old. Those SLAMs really go though a ton of reagents (thank goodness for Amazon's one day shipping).

 

[Oly]

Do your outbreaks happen during the same time of the season. Do they occur only once a season, every season or more?

 

[goody222]

last year was beginning, middle, end. This year mid-May and 2nd week of September.

 

[Oly]

A pools chlorine demand increases rapidly in the spring and catches many pool owners by surprise.
Getting an algae bloom in the spring can set you up for a difficult summer.

 

[mguzzy]

...
Trust me, I'm pretty frustrated. I'm not looking for an alternative TO CHLORINE, just ideas to supplement it. Thanks for all your input.

Its all chlorine.. just a different method of delivery... Thank for the detailed response.. We'll keep brainstorming until we figure it out. I saw one here a few months ago with a similar issue.. turned out the waterfall had really deep basins that were likely hiding algae. Its always something you don't expect. and we are just looking at all possibilities, each of us from our own perspective.

 

[duraleigh]

But if you let your FC slip.. and algae takes hold now they have a food source.

They simply use nitrates as a food source if there is inadequate phosphate food. Removing phosphates from a pool may possibly REDUCE algae but it sure doesn't eliminate it. Chlorine does that and, in my opinion, phosphate remover is a distraction from the issue of inadequate chlorine

so I deal with phosphates at the beginning of the season, and then I don't worry about it the rest of the summer.

What do you do about the phosphates that enter your pool after the Spring? (and they do)

I'm not looking for an alternative TO CHLORINE, just ideas to supplement it.

Back to your algae issue.....Chlorine works. I sound like the marketing VP from Clorox but the solid fact is that chlorine kills algae. To the very best of my knowledge, there is no "special" algae than can defy chlorine (although some species may require a bit more concentration) and there is no "special" pool water that can protect algae from the chlorine if it is applied correctly.

Supplementing (or searching for a supplement) what works perfectly in millions of pools is taking your eyes off the prize.

 

[PoolGate]

When is the last time you tested CYA?

 

[sacredcow]

I travel for work pretty frequently and often can't get someone to dose the pool daily (I'm an excellent candidate for a stenner or a SWG, but just haven't had the time or motivation to deal with it), so all I can do is bring it up to SLAM level before I leave and hope for the best. I started doing a weekly dose of Polyquat 60 a while back, and I haven't come back to a green pool like I did before. That isn't to say there isn't algae there, but if I pass the overnight chlorine loss test I call it good.

Not saying it's a miracle cure- Just that it is helping me in my particular situation. YMMV.

 

[goody222]

2 weeks ago, then last week right before my SLAM. Both times above the 60 mark, below 70.

I'm going to take a close look at my waterfall and see if there is much of a basin inside. I might have to get my Borescope out and slide it inside to check things out.

 

[Leebo]

While it’s true borates do slightly help prevent algae, I wouldn’t bank on them one bit. The levels that they noticeably help prevent algae are higher than many deem safe. Only really look at Borates if your pH is high.

Now let’s look at your question. How can you help prevent an algae outbreak? First let’s all agree upon the easy answer, maintain the FC/CYA ratio. Do this and make sure you brush and algae won’t take hold. That said, sounds to me like maybe you’ve slipped a time or two with allowing your chlorine to drop below the minimum and have walked into an outbreak. No judging here, I too do it.

So now let’s look at ways to assist you in avoiding algae. The first and most common is an algaecide. These make it harder for algae to take hold but do have a major side effect, they break down over time. Because of this they need to be replenished often. If this is your choice please only use a Polyquat 60, NOT the cheap stuff from the store. Often the cheap-o stuff has copper in at, and we don’t like that.

Next option is the one I personally use, phosphate removers. Summers for me are a major headache and I often don’t baby the pool as I should. I’ve found that in my personal pool removing phosphates do give me some extra insurance if (or in my case when) my chlorine level drops below FC/CYA ratio. Removing phosphates will almost never totally prevent algae (levels below 100ppm algae can’t live, but you’ll never remove that many) but can give you some extra time to get your chlorine level back up.

As Dave mentioned phosphates can often return to your pool from sources such as fill water or fertilizers, but it varies from place to place how much. I personally have found very little are added to my pool yearly so a dose every Spring lasts me almost all season. Others have found their fill water loaded with phosphates so all they end up doing is chasing their tail trying to remove them.

 

[ajw22]

2 weeks ago, then last week right before my SLAM. Both times above the 60 mark, below 70.

I'm going to take a close look at my waterfall and see if there is much of a basin inside. I might have to get my Borescope out and slide it inside to check things out.

We have somebody here who had a cascading waterfall with deep basins that pooled water at each level. We realized that the water at the bottom of the basins was stagnant and breeding algae with the chlorinated water just flowing along the top.

Your waterfall could be the root of your algae problems.