Adding Chlorine bleach...

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S

SWP Mary

0
Jun 2, 2018
28
Sedona, AZ
Hello ALL...

I am having terrific success using muriatic acid to get the scale off my tiles...looks a good 90% now :D so I am happy to have found this site...and treasure the advice I have received thus far! So thanks!!!

However...I am still working on getting my pool chemistry adjusted based on SWG TFP guidelines...I added 55 oz of Chlorine (plain chlorox) (using Pool Math) because my FC was 0.5, CC 1.0 for a TC of 1.5ppm.

My ? about adding Chlorine though is this...it is foaming a little bit after I added it (I ran my spillway to circulate it throughout the pool/spa)...is this normal? Or should I just let it circulate by dilution?

Thanks in advance...you all rock! :p
 
Sadly, Clorox bleach is no longer 'plain'. It has Cloromax in it, that we assume are polymers. They will cause foaming in your water.

Your best source for plain liquid chlorine has moved from the household bleach aisle to either the pool aisle in Walmart or at Home Depot/Lowes or a pool store for liquid chlorine.

You need to add enough LC so that when you test each day, your FC is at target level based on [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].

- - - Updated - - -

Just saw a SWCG -- which one do you have? You should not need to add liquid chlorine. Unless you are having an organics issue and need to SLAM Process.
 
I have an Intellichlor Salt chlorine generator....but my FC has always been very low 0.5-1.0...when we originally had the pool installed the guy's instructions were..."all you will need to do is add Salt when the light is on"...sadly that has not been the case...I'm ok with not needing to bring up the FC but have had issues with some algae...

I originally started using Shock N Swim 1lb once a week during hot season (Arizona) and once a month in the winter and that kept the algae from becoming a problem...but it left a calcium ring around the tiles...which I am resolving with muriatic acid...

Then I found this site and someone gifted me the "Water Balance for SWGs" article and I am trying to adjust my chemistry according to the guidelines...hence the chlorine addition...

I am open to other offerings...and advice on whether or not SWPs need higher FC levels...the article suggests 4-6ppm...
 
Ok...IDK...but I think the IntelliChlr? is set at 50% and the light on the system is lit up to 60...is that what you mean? OMG...so sorry...I have never owned a pool before...this is the first year I have had to figure it out... thanks for your input!

Also...it looks like on the Chlorinator Info...the Salt: is 3650ppm
 
OK. So your pool is 10000 gallons, right?

Use SWG Run Time Calculator

Your SWCG can produce 0.7 lbs of chlorine per day at 100% setting.

Start with needing to add 4 ppm of FC per day. So I just used the calculator and you need to run your pump 12 hours per day with your SWCG set at 100%. Or you can run your pump longer and adjust the % setting accordingly.

You say the IC is set now at 50%. That would be OK if you are running your pump 24 hours a day. Are you?
 

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Once we confirm you do not have an active algae issue, you need to get that CYA to 70 ppm. At 20 your SWCG cannot outrun the loss of chlorine to the sun.
 
Ok...there was not an algae problem so I ran my SWG for 15 hours yesterday and got my TC up to 7.0ppm this am! YAY! I will test again this evening to see how much I lose to the sun...and that should be what I try to generate on a daily basis correct? And I can use the SWG runtime calculator to determine? I hope I'm getting this... :)

ALSO, it rained here yesterday while I was running the pump so I don't think I lost much chlorine. Normally it is sunny and hot...so I suspect I am going to have to run it extra in the summer and less in the winter as I have had no issues in the cold at all.

The water looks pretty good and the scale is almost gone save a few spots on the grout here and there. The pH was 7.4; FC 6.0ppm; CC 1.0; TC 7.0; CH raised from 875 the other day to 1000 after it rained last night (I live in a Ca rich environment)...I need to figure that one out...TA 90 and CYA is still 20. My chemistry is still off...but weirdly I am making progress.

Thanks for your help! On to the next thing...CH!
 
You are getting it. The CC of 1.0 is concerning. That implies you have organics in the pool that the chlorine is consuming.

I would be prepared to do a complete drain and refill in early fall. Once your CH gets to 800 plus it becomes difficult to keep from having scale buildup pretty rapidly.

Rain did not increase your CH. It is the one source of water we have that does not have calcium.

Add some CYA soon.
 
Mary,

If you don't have a Taylor Magnetic Speed Stir I would highly recommend one, particularly for the calcium test. Without, my initial results were in the 750 range. With the Speed Stir results dropped to 675. I've read the CA test is dependent on consistent testing methods; something difficult to achieve by manually stirring. Works great for chlorine and TA testing as well.

Just my 2 cents.

Mike.
 
I have a quick ? about organics...I was told by a "pool guy" that it is hard to eliminate organics in the SW because of the winds/dirt-grit/rains during "monsoon" season...that staying ahead of a bloom is all you can do...are my standards too low?

I had accepted that as true bc I never had a pool before, am a Mid-west transplant and he was a SW "expert"...reconsidering seems in order I suspect! Thanks.

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Thanks Mike I just got one...
 
If anything our organics here in the desert are very low compared to the southeast or east coast. We have few trees, little grass, etc. Dogs are another matter. They can really drive your water chemistry. Or neighbors with dogs whom do not clean up the droppings. Ask me how I know ....

The 'pool guy' would always be running just ahead of the next algae bloom because he used trichlor. And the pools he serviced had sky high CYA, which need sky high FC, which they don't get because the pucks do not dissolve fast enough to get the FC in the water but then the CYA is getting higher and ....... algae.
 
"...Or neighbors with dogs whom do not clean up the droppings. Ask me how I know ...."

No need...LOL! Sorry about the neighbors :(

Good to know about the organics...will get the CYA adjusted on my pool...and will keep working at this until it is balanced! Thanks so very much for all your help...Happy Father's Day to you and yours!

:)
 
Ok...so today's readings are as follows:

OCLT last night: FC 5.5, CC 0.5 for TC 6.0
This morning: FC 5.0, CC 0.5 for TC 5.5

So I think that is good? Water is clear and lovely! :)

My other readings today are pH 7.5, CH 875, TA 80 and CYA still 20ppm after adding 2# yesterday via sock method. I realize the CYA reading may not be accurate yet and will hold off adding more until I am sure it is that low.

My plan currently is to continue running my SWG at 100% for 10-12 hours/day in the daytime hours. Monitor my daily tests and retest CYA at the end of the week. If it is still that low add another 2# and recheck.

Thoughts? I read somewhere in the forum about "pool Zen" LOL...should I just chime and wait until its "time"? Or is there more that I should be doing?

Thanks for all the help thus far! :kim:
 

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