Acid wash or re-surface

Also since I am using an external pump, all the stuff about removing filter goes by the wasteside right?
There is nothing about removing a filter in the No Drain Exchange discussion.

Again, lock out the pool pump. Do not run until you have completed the Exchange to your liking.
 
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There is nothing about removing a filter in the No Drain Exchange discussion.
The wiki discusses draining to waste with the pool pump, then putting the MPV back to filter. I am assuming that's what they referenced not being needed with a submersible.
 
The wiki discusses draining to waste with the pool pump, then putting the MPV back to filter. I am assuming that's what they referenced not being needed with a submersible.
That is not in the No Drain Exchange section.
 
There is nothing about removing a filter in the No Drain Exchange discussion.

Again, lock out the pool pump. Do not run until you have completed the Exchange to your liking.
  1. Put the filter on RECIRCULATE if you have a Multi-Purpose Valve(MPV) on your filter. If you have a cartridge filter then remove the cartridges.
So this is what I was referring to ie the part where I treat with ascorbic acid. Not the dilution or drain part of process. Also After I Rx with the ascorbic acid do I wait a week or two. The wiki talks about rebalancing after AA treatment. Shouldn't that occur after no drain exchange?. Sorry for persistent confusion and barage of questions.
 
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Two different things.
Once you have added the AA and the iron stains lift (typically happens in minutes) you want to start draining. No need to rebalance until you have the new water in place.
 
Understood. But can you clarify this?
At first I thought I was going to use the pool pump to drain pool and now I am not. I am going to isolate it and turn it off and use the sump pump. But after I add the AA, I would imagine I would have the pool pump on for a "bit" to allow mixture of AA to all parts of pool. I understand I should remove the filter because of a low chance of it absorbing particles. Or am I wrong? If I am not going to be draining through my filter would it cause issues if I don't remove it during the AA treatment? And If I start to "drain or exchange immediately" does a sequestrant become essential because I am getting rid of the iron water "semi-immediately"?
 
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I would brush the pool with the AA. The pump should not be necessary. No sequestrant needed if you go immediately to exchange.
BTW went to home depot to buy a brush and there were nylon ones. Some had firm bristles and some more delicate almost like a hair brush. Which is best for diamond bright or pepple tec type plaster?
 

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Going to be asking a bunch of naive question as this is my first shot at self maintenance repair etc.
I bought this as the pole for the whale brush. But I am realizing that the poles in home depot looked a lot longer and were collapsable.

For a pool 20 feet wide should I have gotten a longer or different pole?
 
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16ft is the standard 'long' pole. I have to go from both sides on my 20 ft wide. I could reach across the pool with the pole and long arms, but not across and 8ft down.

You want a quality pole and they aren't cheap. When my builder grade cheapo broke in 2 months I went down there and had them order me the one their service people used. It was $100 in 2012. The twisty lock finally died and I just got a protuff pole for $175.
 
So my use for the pole is to scrub the sides and bottom of pool during the ascorbic acid rx. Afterwards I plan I getting one of those robotic cleaners. With the cleaner will I be needing a high grade expensive pole?
 
Update: I just finished repairing my plumming job by moving the flow meter to the front of the swg and adding a jandy valve in front of the filter like others recommended. Last week the pool service cleaned pool and I tested water again for pH and it was over 8.2 again. When I called them and told them I needed 7.2 they told me it was 7.2 so I tested again using the TFP kit. Again very pink pH above 8.2. When I brought this to their attention they told me I was wrong and they could not satisfy me and resigned so now I am really on my own except the people on this site. So I have not ascorbitized my pool yet (new word). I know I need to lower the pH.


Which method is best: Muriatic acid or ? How much to bring 8.2 to 7.2
Also I need to run a rose 100 feet to sewer from sump pump. I understand it should be a garden hose. What width is best?
Can I run hose 10 feet and then hook to my 2 inch blue back wash hose? I am trying to reduce resistence to get the job done sooner.
 
Update: I just finished repairing my plumming job by moving the flow meter to the front of the swg and adding a jandy valve in front of the filter like others recommended. Last week the pool service cleaned pool and I tested water again for pH and it was over 8.2 again. When I called them and told them I needed 7.2 they told me it was 7.2 so I tested again using the TFP kit. Again very pink pH above 8.2. When I brought this to their attention they told me I was wrong and they could not satisfy me and resigned so now I am really on my own except the people on this site. So I have not ascorbitized my pool yet (new word). I know I need to lower the pH.


Which method is best: Muriatic acid or ? How much to bring 8.2 to 7.2
Also I need to run a rose 100 feet to sewer from sump pump. I understand it should be a garden hose. What width is best?
Can I run hose 10 feet and then hook to my 2 inch blue back wash hose? I am trying to reduce resistence to get the job done sooner.
Im curious how they could be so far off measuring pH unless they are just totally incompetant. Wanna share a picture of your pH test with the TF-100 just to make sure?
 
The color is more violet (purple to me) at 7.8 and above. The intensity of the color is not the indicator. It is the hue.
Use only 4 drops of reagent to see if you get a better match.
 

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