About to drain on a new pool! :(

melsteph

Gold Supporter
Jun 8, 2013
66
East Texas
with SWG
FC 3-5 (See chart)
pH 7.2-7.8
TA 60-80
CH 350-450
CYA 70-80


CYA is still running about 180. I'm so nervous about draining on a new pool. Here are today's results. I assume I don'tdo anything else until I exchange water.
FC- 13
pH - 7.8
TA - 90
CH - 200
CYA - 180 (dilution test)

Water is beautiful but stressing me out!!
M
 
Good question ~ only pool builder was maintaining it for the frst 6 weeks. They said they didn't add anything that would bring it up that much. I hav only added the salt and muriatic acid. All I can figure is one of their guys (inadvertendly) added something wrong and no one will admit to it. They were shocking and adding pucks before we started the swg. I am now maintaining the pool and following TFP's recommendations.
 
Good question ~ only pool builder was maintaining...They were shocking and adding pucks before we started the swg. I am now maintaining the pool and following TFP's recommendations.
There is CYA in the pucks....ugh..
Do a number of partial refills.. Say only a foot down, I think that is about a quarter. Costs more in water but it might be easier on the plaster. The big guys will chime in soon.
 
You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
 
You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
MKnauss you are awesome on this site! Have you ever wanted to visit Texas? LOL I need you here!

I understand your reply. My question is - Can I switch my pump to filter "waste" out of drains only (3 in deep end) instead of sub pump? Lay hose in skimmer area to put in the new water? Thoughts?

I know you are probably tired of my issues with this new pool, but I want to do this right! No more pool store. No more pool builder. Just TFP!
Thanks All!
M
 
You could, but I rather like to use a $100 sump pump versus my $1000 pool pump. The process can take many hours. Depending on what rate of flow you settle at.
 
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