About time to close, but CYA is about 110-115 due to the crappy chemicals from the pool store

matasoj

Gold Supporter
Jul 1, 2020
8
Conesus, NY
I found troublefreepool and the pool math app after I had already gone a month into maintaining our new 27' x 54" AGP using the chemicals purchased from the company that sold us the pool. Even just a month in, the CYA had climbed to above 60. I was still trying to figure out how everything for the pool worked, how the tests worked, and had my friend who works at the pool store advising me to just use the chlorine tabs and shock in the pool + algecide. Then I started reading on here that there are better ways to do it. I got bleach when I could this summer (Covid made bleach scarce for a while) and was alternating using bleach and the tabs/shock to maintain the the pool's chemistry.

I went back to the pool store like they requested with the bottle of water for them to test, and came back one more time loaded down with stuff to put in the pool. More $$ wasted, IMO, but I didn't know that for sure at the time. I was still just getting a feeling for how it was all working out. The pool math app is solid gold, though, so I maintained my pool at as close to the proper levels as I could all summer long. The CYA kept climbing, due to my needing to use both Tabs/Shock due to not being able to get bleach.

I also drained water from the pool at two points this summer and re-filled it - 6" the first time (brought the CYA from 90 down to 65), and 1' of water the second time which I believe was about 1/4 of the pool water and dropped the CYA from 105 or so down to about 80. That last one was in early August I think.

Following the App's recommendations, I had a crystal clear pool all summer long, even when my neighbors were fighting green pools and buying tons of chemicals. Attached is a pic of how it has been all summer, and is still crystal clear now.

So I am about time to close, but CYA is about 110-115 or maybe even a bit higher. My main question is, do I do a drain and re-fill now to try to get the CYA down, or do I just add the closing stuff and deal with it in the spring? Temps are still above freezing overnight, but I don't know how long it will be before we start getting frosts overnight. Not too long, I don't think.

Advice is welcome!

I just did a water test today, and the numbers are as follows:
FC: 10
pH: 7.5
TA: 190 (this jumped from 75 -> 175 when I added the pool-store recommended 25lb Bioguard Balance Pak 100 and has not come down since)
CH: 140
CYA: 115
CSI: -0.35
Temp: 57º
 

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matasoj

Gold Supporter
Jul 1, 2020
8
Conesus, NY
So attached is a pic of the pool from when we were still filling it up after installing it. You can see the double-main-drain in the center, as well as the expansion hose coming out under the side. With winter coming on, I need to close the pool (a different question about that is on the forum also). In regards to the main drains:

I have seen it recommended to close the drain side, tie it up above the level of the water, and then do one of three things, based on the various youtube videos and articles and such I have read. So I am looking for opinions here amongst the smart people. :cool:

1) Pour a gallon of RV Antifreez in the drain (or more, I bought 3).
2) insert some foam backer-rod into the drain hose. I purchased 5/8" backer rod, 1/2" backer rod, 3/8" backer rod, all in 20' lengths. I could put one or all of them in, to absorb the ice-expansion. Sort of a pool-pillow for the hose.
3) Attempt to blow the water out - my only option here is a shop-vac, and I'm thinking that my shop-vac does not have the oomph to push water out of the drain of a 20-22,000 gal AGP.

Thoughts?
 

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YippeeSkippy

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 17, 2012
15,597
Evans, Georgia
Hmmmm... well, CYA does degrade a bit over time, but I'm sure it won't get as low as you want it come next spring. You could always let winter rains and snow help you replace water, if you want. Just drain some before rain and let the rain refill.

Will you be taking the pump and equipment and putting them into storage over winter? Do you plan on covering? Some covers allow more water in than others.

I wouldn't waste any money on those "closing kits" as your pool probably needs nothing in them. No algaecide unless its Polyquat 60 type. Those kits usually come with cheap copper type algaecides which you don't want.

You certainly don't need any more alkalinity or calcium products in that pool!

Maddie
 

duraleigh

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
34,517
Sebring, Florida
or do I just add the closing stuff and deal with it in the spring?
If your water temp is 60 or below, close now (I agree with YS, you don't need that closing stuff) and deal with CYA in the Spring.

Open before your water temp goes above 60 in the Spring and test for CYA and go from there.
 

setsailsoon

Gold Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Oct 25, 2015
3,847
Stuart/FL
Pool Size
12800
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
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Mat,

Maddie and Dave have your question covered. See if you can return any of the chemicals to the pool store. If not, chalk it up to tuition. At least you didn't have to deal with a green pool before you took control of the pool using TFP methods. You're way ahead of most by taking control already. Also, consider a salt system next year for chlorination. No more jug-lugging plus you don't have to worry about shortages of liquid chlorine.

Good luck!

Chris
 
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ship of fools

Well-known member
Nov 9, 2011
642
Albany, NY
I'm in Albany so very similar weather and my CYA disappears every winter. Just see what your test shows next spring and go from there. By the way I have a good friend who lives in Livonia!
 

matasoj

Gold Supporter
Jul 1, 2020
8
Conesus, NY
Thank you all for your responses! I did buy a "Winterizing kit" that has a whole variety of chemicals to put into the pool, but it sounds like I don't need that? With my CYA being so high, what level should I shock the pool to for FC before I close it?
 

matasoj

Gold Supporter
Jul 1, 2020
8
Conesus, NY
In talking to my friends, they have universally said that the air pillows never stay inflated in their pools over the winter. I saw someone else say that they put a car innertube under their cover to help spread the cover out. That got me thinking. Could I just put 2-3 innertubes in the pool, under the cover, to act as air pillows? It seems like the heavier material of the innertubes would stand a better chance in the cold.

Thoughts?
 

mrbookmanlibrarycop

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2019
69
Westchester, NY
Pool Size
22000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Here's my experience as I had the same issue last year for my new (to me) pool. I closed it with CYA of 120. 2 things I did: I made sure I closed with water temps consistently below 60 and added polyquat 60. I didn't really worry about slamming as I did not have algae and passed olct. I also inherited a mesh cover so drained the pool about 6 inches below return jets.

Results may vary, but upon opening my CYA was 70. All that to say, you can close if water below 60 and deal with your cya in spring. If cya is still higher than you want in spring, just drain and refill
 

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
2,900
Atlanta Ga
I am in Atlanta and always surprised how little chemicals cold water needs. I hardy touch my pool from Nov until March other then adding a floater with 3 or 4 tablets and it stays uncovered and pump drained and stays crystal clear once I get all the Fall leaf's out
 
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