a Newbie needing help!

Ok...finished the rest of the tests...reminder..this is my 1st go...

FC 9.4
CC 0.0
PH. 7.6
TA 110-140

i say this as test kit says when turns RED ?? Sample was complete pink at 11 drops...added 3 more to get a darker RED..ISH...what shade are we to acknowledge?

C 420
CYA. did not register on 1st test..way high...so I followed Taylor website directions and mixed with tap water..tested..came out to a

CYA of 160

Thanks
 
Ok...finished the rest of the tests...reminder..this is my 1st go...

FC 9.4
CC 0.0
PH. 7.6
TA 110-140

i say this as test kit says when turns RED ?? Sample was complete pink at 11 drops...added 3 more to get a darker RED..ISH...what shade are we to acknowledge?

C 420
CYA. did not register on 1st test..way high...so I followed Taylor website directions and mixed with tap water..tested..came out to a

CYA of 160

Thanks
Which test are you referring to with the red shade?

Good job with the extended CYA test!

Replace enough water to get CYA down to 70 at most, ever lower if you can, and then SLAM with the instructions I linked in my last post.
 
The TA test is the RED I was referring to.

Ok so..If I'm learning this...the Cloudiness is either caused by the high CYA level or...the FC not being useable due to the high CYA level...am I getting this?

so the dreaded drain begins...the good thing is...we are finally expecting some rain this weekend (central FL) up to 1 1/2 inches...every little bit of free stuff helps! ����
 
Your cloudiness is caused by algae. With a high CYA you have to maintain a very high FC to fight that algae. With a CYA of 160 your FC should always be at least 12 ppm to keep the algae at bay. Once the algae takes over you must SLAM the pool to kill the algae. This requires you to maintain a FC of 64 until the bad stuff is gone (filtered out).

As for the Taylor TA testing, see the extended test kit directions in pool school...
 
The TA test is the RED I was referring to.

Ok so..If I'm learning this...the Cloudiness is either caused by the high CYA level or...the FC not being useable due to the high CYA level...am I getting this?

so the dreaded drain begins...the good thing is...we are finally expecting some rain this weekend (central FL) up to 1 1/2 inches...every little bit of free stuff helps! ����
For the TA test, you continue to add drops until the color does not get any darker.

And that's correct about CYA. The more CYA in the pool, the more chlorine you need to maintain its effectiveness. With a CYA of 160 you'd need to keep your FC around 20ppm all the time to avoid algea, which is obviously not a recommended scenario.

Check out this chart:
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
 
What I think I've learned in a pretty short time...Been lurking a week..started posting and begging for help 2 days ago...I've owned this pool for 18 years...havent had too many BIG problems other then a part of routine was pool store testing and hauling home LOTS of expensive chemicals..and somewhat regular big swings in pool condition..OK OK ..so that is a BIG problem...with daily and often heavy rains in central Florida I made myself believe that was usually the cause for these swings...I never really understood the relationship between all the chemicals and additives...(somebody slap me twice..please!) In a short time and lots of reading pool school and many posts...This stuff is starting to make sense..and yes I have much to learn...but if you take the time to actually read, listen, and learn..this site makes what always seemed like a confusing, complicated process fairly straightforward if I am just willing to not expect immediate fixes...trust YOUR process and test my own water..it appears that the swings will begin to lessen...the condition and enjoyment of the pool will increase and $$$ and much frustration spent scratching my head will go way down...somebody please tell me why I waited 18 years to start to get a clue!!!

You folks are the best!

Ed
 
What I think I've learned in a pretty short time...Been lurking a week..started posting and begging for help 2 days ago...I've owned this pool for 18 years...havent had too many BIG problems other then a part of routine was pool store testing and hauling home LOTS of expensive chemicals..and somewhat regular big swings in pool condition..OK OK ..so that is a BIG problem...with daily and often heavy rains in central Florida I made myself believe that was usually the cause for these swings...I never really understood the relationship between all the chemicals and additives...(somebody slap me twice..please!) In a short time and lots of reading pool school and many posts...This stuff is starting to make sense..and yes I have much to learn...but if you take the time to actually read, listen, and learn..this site makes what always seemed like a confusing, complicated process fairly straightforward if I am just willing to not expect immediate fixes...trust YOUR process and test my own water..it appears that the swings will begin to lessen...the condition and enjoyment of the pool will increase and $$$ and much frustration spent scratching my head will go way down...somebody please tell me why I waited 18 years to start to get a clue!!!

You folks are the best!

Ed
Your water condition swings will be ZERO following the advice here :kim:

The CYA/FC relationship, the cornerstone of how we care for our pools here, is not widely accepted by the pool industry. This is in spite of overwhelming scientific proof, and thousands of independently owned lab results- ALL OF OUR CRYSTAL CLEAR POOLS!

I think there is a few reasons for this. There were several bad studies done in the 60's/70's that did not account for the buffering effects of CYA, and many health departments still create regulations based on this bad info.

Another reason is that it's much easier and much more profitable for pool stores to sell stabilized solid chlorine. Liquid chlorine (bleach) has a much shorter shelf life, and is harder to ship/store, which I would guess leads to lower profit margins.

It's also WAY easier to explain/convince someone to use crappy test strips and dump bags of "ALGEA AWAY!" or "PH! DOWN!" powder into their pool. But as you discovered, with just a little bit of knowledge and a good test kit, it's FAR easier, cheaper, and more effective to do it our way.
 
You've all been great help so far...I started draining at 11:30 AM...MY CYA is 160... I'm targeting 60... pool math says I should remove 63%...ouch...(pay me now or pay me forever) trying to figure out how low to go...so....I have an odd shaped pool...with swim ins and steps..round sides and angled sides...my 15,800 gallons...is taken from what the pool store had that previous owner used... so with all these variations in depth an irregular shapes..how to i figure out how low to go on my drain? My pool is roughly 30' X 14'...I've drained 8" of water...so I have 30 x 15 x .66= 277.2 cu ft. Google tells me water is 7.5 gals. Cu ft...so I have removed 2079 gallons...wow...63% of 15,800 = 9,954 gals...cant imagine removing another 4.78 times what I have already done....

Is my head on right...all these angles...curves..built in seats..etc...scratching my head!

I am attempting to attach my 1st ever picture...IMG_4823.jpg
 

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Thanks...wife and I think the tile is wayyy outdated...but bigger fish to fry...

ok...so..if my math is close...at 8"...then 4.78 times 8 is 38.24"...so I have to drain it down 3 ft to be close to 9,954 gallons...which seems about right on a guess since depth in middle is 6' ...4 1/2' at the wall plus the hot tub...so...ok..thats what I'm shooting for...yikes...seems like soooooo much...then again...I guess it is...Dagnabit pool stores...Dagnabit ME!
 
My 1st blink...pool has dropped 14"...headed to 36 ish...was going to let the pump run all night...looking at it right before bed spooked me...figured would re-do CYA Test first thing in am...verify my CYA high level is correct before I continue with the draining....lying in bed chanting...I know this is right...I know this is right.....uggghh
 
My 1st blink...pool has dropped 14"...headed to 36 ish...was going to let the pump run all night...looking at it right before bed spooked me...figured would re-do CYA Test first thing in am...verify my CYA high level is correct before I continue with the draining....lying in bed chanting...I know this is right...I know this is right.....uggghh
I wouldn't let the pump run overnight while draining to waste unless I knew exactly how much would be coming out.

If an IG pool is drained Completly, there's a very small chance of it popping if you sit on a high water table.

Not trying to alarm you, draining 63% is nothing to worry about. Newer pools are generally designed to prevent this, and it would require the water under the pool to be heavier than the pool+water.

You're on the right path! You will only need to do this once as long as you stay away from dry chlorine!
 
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