99% sure my SWG died

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
21,555
If the Cell light is staying on solid, then it's probably working.

The only way to really tell is to measure the voltage and amperage going into the transformer or going to the cell.

If the cell is over 7 years old, it might have issues that are not obvious.

The power going into the transformer (volts x amps) should be about 200 to 240 watts. The power going to the cell should be about 150 to 200 watts.
 
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ajup2it

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2019
125
Indiana
If the Cell light is staying on solid, then it's probably working.

The only way to really tell is to measure the voltage and amperage going into the transformer or going to the cell.

If the cell is over 7 years old, it might have issues that are not obvious.

The power going into the transformer (volts x amps) should be about 200 to 240 watts. The power going to the cell should be about 150 to 200 watts.
Thanks for the info. We'll look at this and report back tonight.
 

ajup2it

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2019
125
Indiana
If the Cell light is staying on solid, then it's probably working.

The only way to really tell is to measure the voltage and amperage going into the transformer or going to the cell.

If the cell is over 7 years old, it might have issues that are not obvious.

The power going into the transformer (volts x amps) should be about 200 to 240 watts. The power going to the cell should be about 150 to 200 watts.
Hi James,

Dec 14, 2015 is the date on the back. I did the overnight chlorine loss. Last night it was 10 (6pm) and this morning, late unfortunately, it was 8.5. We had cut power to the SWG and turned off the pump over night and restarted around 11:30 am today which is when I took the sample. The SWG had flashing lights that led me to believe it was attempting to figure out if salt was low or not. But now its green again as it was previously, displaying the same way.
 

ajup2it

Well-known member
Sep 3, 2019
125
Indiana
So there's been a change. The light now flashes to indicate check cell. Also, I learned if I press and hold the "more" button, it will give me a percent and that number is 40%. Presently, it appears my swg is not producing chlorine.

Homebrewale - thanks, and I figured as much but there was little choice that morning with getting my kid to school and then immediately going to PT. Life happens. While not ideal, at least full sun doesn't hit my pool this time of year until noon. My house and a tree block most of it until 10:45 am. Still, I hear what you're saying. The light wasn't flashing at that time, however, but it is now and we had just cleaned the cell last week too.

JamesW - I have yet to use the multimeter. I'm in an arm sling and can't use my dominant hand yet. Hubby has been flat out. Perhaps it will get done today. I'll write here when it does get done. He knows how to use one but he was wondering where he's supposed to take the readings...which is what I was asking for when I asked for tips. Sorry if you misunderstood me and I you.
 

Brushman

Bronze Supporter
Jul 24, 2017
24
Katy, Texas
The dropping salt level is a puzzle. Kind of like the dog that didn't bark in that old Sherlock Holmes story. Ajup2it, do you have an automatic pool leveling system or do you manually add water? If you are losing salt, you are losing water by some mechanism other than evaporation.
 

Brushman

Bronze Supporter
Jul 24, 2017
24
Katy, Texas
Hmm. Sorry to be late coming back to this. In my pool, bubbles in the returns only indicates that air is getting into the system somehow. It does not indicate anything, one way or the other, about chlorine production. When my system is working properly and the cell is producing chlorine, there are zero bubbles in the return.