Hi Folks - Just getting started on the TFP Methods.. Would be great to get some insights to confirm I'm on the right path.
6/12 Starting point with Leslie in store testing w/taylor kit
FC 0
TC 0
CC 0
PH 7.6
ALK 120
CH 180
CYA 99
Copper 0
Iron 0
TDS 1200
Phosphates 500
Pulled Frog mineral system and Frog bac PAQ Tricho, Added 2 lb lithium shock (had on hand) and switched to 8.25% chlorine, replaced about 6100 gals in two steps
6/25 - K2006 testing at home (cool kit btw)
FC 4
CC <0.5 (No pink at all)
PH 7.8
ALK 220
CH 120
CYA 60
Note that I tested the tap water used to add 6100 gals to the pool. its why my ALK went up and CH went down.
Added 64 oz Muriatic Acid and 32 oz 8.25% chlorine (not at the same time)
6/26 K2006 testing at home
FC 7
CC <0.5 (No pink at all)
PH 7.2
ALK 200
CH 120
CYA 60
I've not completed a SLAM but don't really think I need to at this point. Water is crystal blue and has no measurable overnight FC loss. Water temp is keep at 88.
Go forward plan:
Only odd ball thing I can see is a purple color in my CH test instead of Red. A left over from my frog mineral system or from the added Tap water maybe? Adding 5 drops of titrant 1st didn't have a change on the purple color. Will likely have Leslie's test for metal next month just to rule out a possible unknown issue.
Side question, should I be applying a CYA correction to total alkalinity as suggested in the Taylor kit manual? Assuming a target ph of 7.4 my CYA of 60..
ALkc = ALKta - (CYA x CYAf)
ALKc = 200 - (60 x .33)
AlKc = 180.2
Applying this correction would mean I need to reduce TA less than I would based on the measurement alone. Which is more correct? or at the end of the day does +/- 10 ppm TA really matter when you talking 80 or 90 TA (target)?
Thanks in advance!
6/12 Starting point with Leslie in store testing w/taylor kit
FC 0
TC 0
CC 0
PH 7.6
ALK 120
CH 180
CYA 99
Copper 0
Iron 0
TDS 1200
Phosphates 500
Pulled Frog mineral system and Frog bac PAQ Tricho, Added 2 lb lithium shock (had on hand) and switched to 8.25% chlorine, replaced about 6100 gals in two steps
6/25 - K2006 testing at home (cool kit btw)
FC 4
CC <0.5 (No pink at all)
PH 7.8
ALK 220
CH 120
CYA 60
Note that I tested the tap water used to add 6100 gals to the pool. its why my ALK went up and CH went down.
Added 64 oz Muriatic Acid and 32 oz 8.25% chlorine (not at the same time)
6/26 K2006 testing at home
FC 7
CC <0.5 (No pink at all)
PH 7.2
ALK 200
CH 120
CYA 60
I've not completed a SLAM but don't really think I need to at this point. Water is crystal blue and has no measurable overnight FC loss. Water temp is keep at 88.
Go forward plan:
- run slide to increase PH to about 7.6 and then continue rounds of Muriatic Acid until I hit 80 ALK. Slide is increasing PH by about .2 with four hours of running.
- add 8.25% chlorine as needed per pool math site
- will not worry about CH (vinyl), TDS, Phosphates
- let CYA go down over the season with splash and backwash, Monitor ALK when adding water back in as my Tap water ALK is 320.
Only odd ball thing I can see is a purple color in my CH test instead of Red. A left over from my frog mineral system or from the added Tap water maybe? Adding 5 drops of titrant 1st didn't have a change on the purple color. Will likely have Leslie's test for metal next month just to rule out a possible unknown issue.
Side question, should I be applying a CYA correction to total alkalinity as suggested in the Taylor kit manual? Assuming a target ph of 7.4 my CYA of 60..
ALkc = ALKta - (CYA x CYAf)
ALKc = 200 - (60 x .33)
AlKc = 180.2
Applying this correction would mean I need to reduce TA less than I would based on the measurement alone. Which is more correct? or at the end of the day does +/- 10 ppm TA really matter when you talking 80 or 90 TA (target)?
Thanks in advance!