Hi all! Like many of you, I’ve decided to add a SWG to minimize storage of chemicals, save some money and time. In preparation, I balanced the chemicals to ideal levels FC: 5.5, CYA: 50, pH: 7.4, TA: 60, CH: 550, water temp: 76. Then I added Boric acid last night following the method exactly on this site. I did calculations assuming salt level in the pool would be zero and picked up a bunch of 40 lb bags of clean solar salt (and then I’ll just use excess for water softener). I tested salt level a few hours ago using the Taylor K-1766 test kit following instructions exactly (holding bottle vertical and all that), and had to use 41 drops of the reagent, which comes out to 8100 PPM NaCL! I’ve never added salt to this pool, and I’ve lived here for 3 years. I have noticed a precipitate, crusty formation off and on on the tile, looks like salt crystal formation, but right now its the most I’ve seen it. So its entirely possible that its salt and the my salt level truly is that high. My question is, how on earth did it get this high?? And is the only way to bring it down replacing water? One of the photos is of the test right when it changed dramatically to the “brick red” and the others show the mysterious crystal formation on the tile wall between the main part of the pool and the unheated spa.
8,200 PPM salt reading
- Thread starter beantobe
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 59,666
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
all the chlorine you've added up to this point, and probably other products too have left behind residual salt. So your pool was not at zero ppm salt when you added more.
If that number is true, you will need to drain at least half the pool and refill with fresh water to lower the salt level.
Efflorescence may be some of that problem at the grout lines.
www.troublefreepool.com
Maddie
If that number is true, you will need to drain at least half the pool and refill with fresh water to lower the salt level.
Efflorescence may be some of that problem at the grout lines.
Efflorescence - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Maddie
- Jun 24, 2021
- 9,075
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Taste the crystals. Do they taste like salt?
My pool increased from 0 ppm to 1100 in one season on liquid chlorine. Each gallon adds 2.1 lbs of salt. Easy over a few years to be at 5000. If you added 3000, that’s 8k
My pool increased from 0 ppm to 1100 in one season on liquid chlorine. Each gallon adds 2.1 lbs of salt. Easy over a few years to be at 5000. If you added 3000, that’s 8k
Yes, I did add to the 10 mL line.
I haven’t ever added salt and I certainly won’t be adding any right now. The EfflorescenCE could be part of the problem - although it’s usually not a ton of crystals like you see now. It does taste like salt (although I currently have COVID, so my sense of taste is a little off). Sounds like its more likely the case of residual NaCl from adding liquid chlorine over the years. The first year I had the pool was a nightmare and I can’t recall exactly what happened but I remember thinking “whoa, I’ve been adding way too much chlorine for way too long.” I think it was about a 3 month period over the summer - this alone could have done it.
I guess on the bright side, I have enough salt for my water softener for about 2 years
I haven’t ever added salt and I certainly won’t be adding any right now. The EfflorescenCE could be part of the problem - although it’s usually not a ton of crystals like you see now. It does taste like salt (although I currently have COVID, so my sense of taste is a little off). Sounds like its more likely the case of residual NaCl from adding liquid chlorine over the years. The first year I had the pool was a nightmare and I can’t recall exactly what happened but I remember thinking “whoa, I’ve been adding way too much chlorine for way too long.” I think it was about a 3 month period over the summer - this alone could have done it.
I guess on the bright side, I have enough salt for my water softener for about 2 years
- May 3, 2014
- 59,666
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You show a CH of 550. Do you use soft water for make up water in your pool? Otherwise, this pool was drained and refilled in the last year or so.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 9,075
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Hot water should dissolve salt. If it dissolves, likely salt. If not likely something else.
The water supply is just straight, untreated city water. But our city water is extremely hard. Other than backwashing occasionally, I’ve never drained or refilled it. Is it time to do that, even if my salt levels were ok?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,666
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
To be honest, I have no idea - It was filled when the house was purchased. It’s possible that it hasn’t been emptied in a really long time! I didn’t really think about that.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,666
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- May 3, 2014
- 59,666
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Be sure you are completing the test to a baby blue.
If your CH is really 550, either your fill water is much different than most of Phoenix or you backwash pretty large volumes fairly often.
Ok, so I retested and really tried to look for the baby blue and I think I’m closer to 330. I basically almost never backwash and I definitely don’t get any kind of special Phoenix water. So, at this level, would it still be advisable to drain about half the pool?
May sound silly but I’d do the salt test again. And make sure to only fill to the 10ml line. The instructions are written weird and lots of people add it to the 25ml line by accident which make the salt levels read really high. You have all the pointers to that problem.
As a second bit of advice, you’re only adding drops to get the solution to change from yellow to some kind of salmon/brick/red/pink color. Some get hung up adding more drops trying to make it turn a perfect “salmon” color but that’s not how it works. It’s a really quick change that happens and when it does, stop adding drops.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,666
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That level of CH in Phoenix implies you are using soft water for the pool. Check the water you are using to fill the pool for evaporation losses.
Ok, I see where it can be confusing between 25 mL and 10 mL and I remember having to read it a few times to make sure I had it straight. Just tested again and got 7400 PPM. It‘s definitely a VERY obvious, sudden change and I stopped after that - it stays a milky yellow for awhile until it flips to the red.
So fill water CH tested at 160 - shoot, maybe the fill water is coming from my water softener!?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,666
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Water coming from the softener should be close to 0 CH.
Your test results do not add up.
Your test results do not add up.