Ok, I see where it can be confusing between 25 mL and 10 mL and I remember having to read it a few times to make sure I had it straight. Just tested again and got 7400 PPM. It‘s definitely a VERY obvious, sudden change and I stopped after that - it stays a milky yellow for awhile until it flips to the red.
Ok, that’s good. I still do it wrong once in a while even though I’ve been burned by it several times.
 
Ok -thanks for trying to help me trouble shoot. I think its worth replacing the testing chemicals in my kit - i believe they are 2-3 years old. Perhaps that is the source of the error for the CH.
Yes.

In my experience with both Taylor and LaMotte test kits, the CH reagent is the shortest shelf-life. 2-3 years old is almost certainly out of date & can give you really wonky results. Check the vials, they have expiration dates on them. Replace any that are expired or will be expiring in the next couple of months.
 
Yes.

In my experience with both Taylor and LaMotte test kits, the CH reagent is the shortest shelf-life. 2-3 years old is almost certainly out of date & can give you really wonky results. Check the vials, they have expiration dates on them. Replace any that are expired or will be expiring in the next couple of months.
Sure enough - the R-0011L (the dark blue CH one) expired 2/20😳
 
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TFTestkits.net has refills, but they no longer have a package for the K2006C.
If you need all new refills, you might consider just getting a full kit. If you need a SmartStir with it, get the TFPRO.

You could get a refill kit for the TF100, but the pH indicator is different for the TF100 vs the K2006.
 
Yes, I think that is definitely part of the issue with my high salt. Also - I only backwash like twice a year 😳. So the only time the pool water gets any significant dilution is during monsoon season!
Ah yes.... monsoons. I remember those when I lived in Bullhead
 

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